Bilstein Damptronic B16 aftermarket shocks
#16
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Woah, are you nuts? Any idea what the computer will do when faced with a massive increase in grip from the slicks?
The D/A route isn't bad per se. but you do need to know what you're doing, new tires, data etc. Or do what i did after i lost my patience. Hire Craig Stanton like I did or the closest pro driver to you and sit him in the car for on brand new (i repeat new) tires and tell him he's not allowed out until the car is set up. ( I threatened Craig that i'd handcuff him to the wheel.) Or call Moton, they'l give you a baseline settings.
Another option is cargraphic, they have great non-adjustable coilovers
The D/A route isn't bad per se. but you do need to know what you're doing, new tires, data etc. Or do what i did after i lost my patience. Hire Craig Stanton like I did or the closest pro driver to you and sit him in the car for on brand new (i repeat new) tires and tell him he's not allowed out until the car is set up. ( I threatened Craig that i'd handcuff him to the wheel.) Or call Moton, they'l give you a baseline settings.
Another option is cargraphic, they have great non-adjustable coilovers
#17
Three Wheelin'
The car is not unstable at all - it just takes too long to take a set after turn-in, so (at least to me) you need to turn in, wait, and then get on the gas. The wait was much shorter in the 996 GT3. On single corners it is no big deal but in corner sequences it seems to take too long for the car to get back to neutral. Is any of this making sense?
If I may offer; it sounds like a bit of technique issue rather than totally suspension related....you describe a delay of taking set after turn in then get on gas???...unless you are trail braking and intentionally waiting for the gas so as to lift and rotate your car; it seems that you might want to be on the throttle much earlier than turn in so as the get the "bite" you are describing....just my $0.02 as to your description...I personally find the stock suspension very responsive for what it is...
#18
Woah, are you nuts? Any idea what the computer will do when faced with a massive increase in grip from the slicks?
The D/A route isn't bad per se. but you do need to know what you're doing, new tires, data etc. Or do what i did after i lost my patience. Hire Craig Stanton like I did or the closest pro driver to you and sit him in the car for on brand new (i repeat new) tires and tell him he's not allowed out until the car is set up. ( I threatened Craig that i'd handcuff him to the wheel.) Or call Moton, they'l give you a baseline settings.
Another option is cargraphic, they have great non-adjustable coilovers
The D/A route isn't bad per se. but you do need to know what you're doing, new tires, data etc. Or do what i did after i lost my patience. Hire Craig Stanton like I did or the closest pro driver to you and sit him in the car for on brand new (i repeat new) tires and tell him he's not allowed out until the car is set up. ( I threatened Craig that i'd handcuff him to the wheel.) Or call Moton, they'l give you a baseline settings.
Another option is cargraphic, they have great non-adjustable coilovers
Many others have put slicks on the gt3 and the car is fine.
A hit of crack every now and then is fine.
What Terry is describing has been well documented by other good drivers who have tracked both a 6gt3 and a 7gt3 - a specific Orange RS who tracks at Tremblant comes to mind - infact it was one of the very first comments I remember about the car (other than "it won't turn" - which I believe we have now fixed) - it is obviously some combination of different chassis / damptronic/ progressive rears/ more weight/ etc - in reality it is likely most a "feel" issue but when you are approaching the limit (as Terry does in his gt3) "feel" is everything
Since I have another car with a world class suspension (Ohlin 3 way adjustable) it is obvious to me as it is to likely everyone else that the stock suspension could be better for those of us that "track" the car - that said the stock suspension is pretty good. Almost no one here would argue that more spring all around and better highspeed compression damping (it is this highspeed stuff that an Ohlin, Moton, etc really excels at) would give the car a better feel - in my other car the base settings from the manufacturer were very good and I didn't play with them much - what I really really noticed though was the incredible "feel" difference in the "compression" damping - the car would just soak up bumps with such pose - and, as many have said, a really really good suspension can make much higher spring rates actually feel softer than stock rates - on this point, i would bet a 600/800 (f/r) Moton Ohlin 7gt3 could feel much softer than our existing OE setup just by softening the compression and rebound a few clicks.
If I keep the car a few more years, I will end up with a Moton / Ohlin setup for sure (I would think 600/800 is about right)
#19
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i wouldn't say the 7 is unstable, but it does take a tad longer to set than my 6, stock to stock.
once the 6 had motons, the difference was even more apparent.
the 7RS pushes more than 7 (stock sway bar set up), probably due to wider track. you can adj the bar to get it to do what you want, or drive around the push like i do. my friends watched my car from behind and cannot figure out how i can drive a car that had so much push. and all this time i thought that was normal.
at any rate, if you swap dampers, go with moton, jrz or ohlins and a good set up guy is mandatory. unless you have lots of suspension and racing experience dont bother adj or set up the DA yourself. you will drive yourself mad.
once the 6 had motons, the difference was even more apparent.
the 7RS pushes more than 7 (stock sway bar set up), probably due to wider track. you can adj the bar to get it to do what you want, or drive around the push like i do. my friends watched my car from behind and cannot figure out how i can drive a car that had so much push. and all this time i thought that was normal.
at any rate, if you swap dampers, go with moton, jrz or ohlins and a good set up guy is mandatory. unless you have lots of suspension and racing experience dont bother adj or set up the DA yourself. you will drive yourself mad.
#20
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Terry is a very good driver and would be fine on slicks.
Many others have put slicks on the gt3 and the car is fine.
A hit of crack every now and then is fine.
I'm sure Terry is going to be ok on slicks that is not what i was saying, i was saying the car isn't made for slicks out of the box and the computer may have issues, i have been told this by people who have tried it.
As far as the slick crack pipe, I've been smoking the Hoosier hooch and I'm hopelessly addicted. Maybe I'll substitute some slick pipe for the withdrawal.
Many others have put slicks on the gt3 and the car is fine.
A hit of crack every now and then is fine.
I'm sure Terry is going to be ok on slicks that is not what i was saying, i was saying the car isn't made for slicks out of the box and the computer may have issues, i have been told this by people who have tried it.
As far as the slick crack pipe, I've been smoking the Hoosier hooch and I'm hopelessly addicted. Maybe I'll substitute some slick pipe for the withdrawal.
#21
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Actually ,I have been driving on Hoosiers for a number of years, as well as Toyo R888s, Sport Cups, Yoko 0048s, and I forget what else. Of these, the Hoosiers are by far the best and I used them on the GT3 last year with no problems whatever. As to true slicks, I have only driven with them on the 996 GT3 which I traded with the other driver for comparison. They sure stuck but that is not the feeling I was addressing. BTW, the 996 GT3 driver who drove my car asked me how I could possibly drive it on the track because of the "wallow." Anyway, I started this thread to ask about people's experience with the B16 Damptronic unit, and it appears that the consensus is negative although no one has actually used the unit on the GT3. So I will check out just increasing the spring rates.
#22
I was contemplating the B16 Damptronic set up for the RS but am also a little nervous about being the guinea pig. I have to believe that Bilstein has enough expertise in the shock and spring department that their kit would be an improvement over the dreadful stock equipment. For all those that say the RS does not understeer and the stock suspension does a great job, I suggest you try going faster and try to approach a well driven 6GT3 lap times (GT3 with all stock suspension and only moderate alignment changes.) Best time at Tremblant in a stock 6GT3 on MPSC's is 1:46:30....not me driving I hasten to add. My best in the RS with full track alignment on Hoosier's is 1:49:211, which is the COMSCC track record for the class.
Check Mt-Tremblant SSU class.
http://www.comscc.org/events/track-records/
Check Mt-Tremblant SSU class.
http://www.comscc.org/events/track-records/
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#23
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Go with a proven system, Moton, jrz ohlin or KWv3, even cargraphic if you want non adjustable (non headache)
+1000 what Mooty said,have a tech install it who has race experience (i used the chief mechanic of the BGB team may he rest in peace) hire a pro and handcuff him into the seat until he's satisfied with the set up (i used my coach, he did it in an hour!) and don't forget NEW TIRES or don't bother. Data is essential if you have anything more then DA shocks (or your wasting your time and $)
+1000 what Mooty said,have a tech install it who has race experience (i used the chief mechanic of the BGB team may he rest in peace) hire a pro and handcuff him into the seat until he's satisfied with the set up (i used my coach, he did it in an hour!) and don't forget NEW TIRES or don't bother. Data is essential if you have anything more then DA shocks (or your wasting your time and $)
#24
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The stock suspension set up is so bloody good that anything short of going to a 3-way moton/JRZ kit would be a waste of time. Having something with seperate rebound and compression is a step up. You can easily go backwards with suspension on these cars;( As far as these kits on a TT that's a different story....