Wide fendered RS project
#31
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No, watch this from a year ago........ This made an impression
He did not want to push the car at WSIR this weekend because it's for sale. He could have gone much faster.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xO41sabiSPQ
He did not want to push the car at WSIR this weekend because it's for sale. He could have gone much faster.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xO41sabiSPQ
right here.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ujPA_BtTNBo
I was going to race prep my GT2, but decided against it after a lot of thought!
#33
Three Wheelin'
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that is a 996RSR faschia.
to be honest, it might be cheaper to just order new fenders and skins. front fenders (carbon if you're really sick in the head) are about a grand if you know where to look. rear bumper and rear skins are a bit more. will you be doing the full cage and carbon doors?
to be honest, it might be cheaper to just order new fenders and skins. front fenders (carbon if you're really sick in the head) are about a grand if you know where to look. rear bumper and rear skins are a bit more. will you be doing the full cage and carbon doors?
correct and good advice....cage and doors are a must...BTW....the carbon kevlar parts ain't cheap
![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
overall...a way expensive project as G has pointed out....take his experience and learn from it...his documentation of his project is/was amazing
#34
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The $1,000 carbon fenders (GrandAm fenders) end up costing around $5,000 after paint job and fitting. That's the cheap alternative.
Cup S fenders only work with Cup S front bumper. Very expensive parts (if you can find them) plus fitting and painting. Easily over $15k.
I'm running Hoosier 265/345 on 9"/12" x 19" BBS wheels with the stock fenders.
I don't see the need to run a much wider front tire, if the rear is not going to be that much wider as well.
Cup S fenders only work with Cup S front bumper. Very expensive parts (if you can find them) plus fitting and painting. Easily over $15k.
I'm running Hoosier 265/345 on 9"/12" x 19" BBS wheels with the stock fenders.
I don't see the need to run a much wider front tire, if the rear is not going to be that much wider as well.
#35
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The Cup S fenders and bumper are currently only sold if you have a VIN for a Cup S. I'd estimate Cup S bodywork alone would cost around $11000 at current exchange rates. However, those parts should be available in the US soon as the Rolex Series car is supposedly going to be using those parts and will likely be cheaper as well.
#36
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If you must......
I used the DP front end from Germany. It includes CF front fenders, CF front bumper and CF splitter. This setup will clear 10" rims with 27/65-18 slicks if you build custom rims.
For the rear, 12.5" rims (custom built) with 31/71-18 slicks will fit under the RS fenders if you roll them further and seriously cut and modify the tub on the inside fender to provide clearance.
Without going this route, I had good sucess with Pirelli slicks on 9" x 18" and 12" x 18" rims. I would suggest this route as the 245 and 305 Pirellis can be used with the stock ABS system.
Once you start increasing the grip level of the RS you will become very frustrated with the electronic safety features and the suspension. It will cost you a lot of money to make the RS competitive with a 996 Cup.
Regarding the Cup S parts. I was able to order the rear bumper 2 weeks ago from PMNA without a VIN.
I used the DP front end from Germany. It includes CF front fenders, CF front bumper and CF splitter. This setup will clear 10" rims with 27/65-18 slicks if you build custom rims.
For the rear, 12.5" rims (custom built) with 31/71-18 slicks will fit under the RS fenders if you roll them further and seriously cut and modify the tub on the inside fender to provide clearance.
Without going this route, I had good sucess with Pirelli slicks on 9" x 18" and 12" x 18" rims. I would suggest this route as the 245 and 305 Pirellis can be used with the stock ABS system.
Once you start increasing the grip level of the RS you will become very frustrated with the electronic safety features and the suspension. It will cost you a lot of money to make the RS competitive with a 996 Cup.
Regarding the Cup S parts. I was able to order the rear bumper 2 weeks ago from PMNA without a VIN.
#37
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Thanks for all the info again! I'll keep you posted on the progress. The project should give us a no compromise chassis, with perhaps a little slower but bulletproff, lower operational cost drivetrain. I can't exploit the full potential of the stock car in all truth anyway.
Maybe too much work to use the RSR wheels that I already have? Probably going to do it anyway![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
As my car builder says: What part did you think would not be expensive, the "Porsche" part or the "Racing" part?
Maybe too much work to use the RSR wheels that I already have? Probably going to do it anyway
![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
As my car builder says: What part did you think would not be expensive, the "Porsche" part or the "Racing" part?
#38
Three Wheelin'
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Thanks for all the info again! I'll keep you posted on the progress. The project should give us a no compromise chassis, with perhaps a little slower but bulletproff, lower operational cost drivetrain. I can't exploit the full potential of the stock car in all truth anyway.
Maybe too much work to use the RSR wheels that I already have? Probably going to do it anyway![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
As my car builder says: What part did you think would not be expensive, the "Porsche" part or the "Racing" part?
Maybe too much work to use the RSR wheels that I already have? Probably going to do it anyway
![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
As my car builder says: What part did you think would not be expensive, the "Porsche" part or the "Racing" part?
Hey Santa....since you have the checkbook WIDE OPEN,.....can you build me one too???
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#39
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#41
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right here.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ujPA_BtTNBo
We've never met ........ but a little "friendly" advice after watching your "in-car" video at WSIR.
Get your seat braced, remounted or replaced NOW. In 26 years, I have never ever ever raced (or driven in for that matter) a properly mounted racing seat that moves around like that.
If you have a bad shunt, I don't even want to think about the probable consequences.
![EEK!](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/eek.gif)
And, if you don't give a sh*t about the obvious and critical safety factor, then do it for the performance aspect as you're loosing at least 1-2 seconds per lap sliding around in that seat. Your *** can not feel the road or feedback from the car when you're sliding around like that ....... a bit worrisome !!!
![ooops](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/icon501.gif)
Just trying to help,
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Chuck