Apex996

Correct. Developed for a couple Grand-Am teams. If you have a need for something else let us know.

mooty

1, what's the benefit of having bullet tip?
2, why not do it to all the different lengths?

i bought my from CDOC a while back. they didn't have bullet tip. the bullet tip version they had has too big of a collar and with my oem wheels, the nut bottoms out before locking the wheels.

Apex996

The unthreaded tip "squares" the nut with the stud's thread so it can be "gunned" on with less chance of cross threading.

It's not done in all lengths due to demand. Only those lengths used in competition where there are fast pit stops are in demand. Also most Club/DE type customers don't want any more stud sticking out than absolutely needed. If you hand start the nut there is no need for a long "nose".

mooty

WONDERFUL, thanx for the explanation, that explains why i fk up so many of my studs.... i am very impatient.... EXTREMELY so....

unfortunately i have 100's literally 100's of studs in spare parts (b/c i fk up so many of them, wheels go on and off 10x a week or more)... but when i kill them all, i will buy from you guys with the bull nose.

jh

CWay27

Hey mooty, send me 20 of them in an envelope and it will help you go through your inventory faster.

todinlaw

Can you give us an education regarding the choice of Nuts and what is the pros and cons. My concern about the one piece nut is that the OE bolts that Porsche provides has a washer spacer that allows the bolt to turn inside the washer so it seats on the rim without grinding into the rim surface if you understand what I am driving at. its a pressure fit without grinding on the rim lug holes.

Anyway what do you recommend as the best application for Track days.

mooty

i would, but having two p cars and racing next year, i WILL mangle through all of them, trust me. i need all the spares i can get.

piling up on tires and new pads, rotors as we speak.

Apex996

OK Porsche wheel bolt part first. Elegant isn't it? This is why we drive Porsches. Even the simplest item such as a wheel bolt is over engineered. However there are advantages to a stud & nut configuration.

Studs Pro:
Allows much easier mounting of the wheel. No more balancing a huge wheel on your toe while trying to thread that first bolt it. If you race, HPDE or AX you know how much of a time saver this is.

Removing wheel is much easier and will reduce the chances of you chipping your PCCBs !! $$$$

Allows you to use wheel spacers of varying thicknesses without even MORE trouble with custom length bolts.

Prevents damage to hub threads as the studs are left in the hub and only the nuts are changed. If you strip a nut or stud, replace them. If you crossthread the hub with a bolt... $$$$

Studs Con:
Some dont like the look. (Then dont do it)
Yes a nut tightened on a wheel will scratch the steel seat insert... however since this is nothing you will ever see I'm not sure why it matters. Torqued properly they will perfectly affix the wheel correctly to the hub. 99% of the cars using studs and nuts use this method, not the Porsche alloy, trick spacer bits.

Perhaps others can give a better list of "cons". I'm a bit biased
I always run stud conversions on cars that I track since I just hate dealing with frequent tire changes and clumsy wheel bolts. Also I am usually running some sort of wheel spacer as well to get every bit of track width I can.

We'll have an FAQ on our website soon with much of this info sorted out.

Thanks everyone for your interest in our products

Apex996

OK a number of you have been asking about studs on a 996 C2. So here are a few pics. Again the 65mm is the ticket for most.

Here are the 90mm "Bullet" nose studs on a C2 with OE twist wheels. As you can see they stick out too much and are not appropriate for street use. For racing where asthetics are not a concern they still work as they do not protrude beyond the wheel lip.
http://www.apexcompetition.com/pub/dscn1768.jpg

Here is a shot of a 65mm stud & nut on a late 996 C2 5 spoke wheel with no spacer.
http://www.apexcompetition.com/pub/dscn2214.jpg

Again a 65mm stud/nut compared to OEM bolt.
http://www.apexcompetition.com/pub/dscn2216.jpg

Here is one of our street kits. Street kits use a zinc coating which is a bit more weather resistant. They are comparable to what you see sold by other wheel stud vendors. Not made from our hardened race alloy but absolutely suitable for daily driving and regular track use. Just not as happy being threaded and unthreaded frequently.
http://www.apexcompetition.com/pub/dscn2399.jpg

Here is a pic of a street stud being inserted with loc-tite on the hub end.
http://www.apexcompetition.com/pub/dscn2400.jpg

**NOTE** the hex is for initial installation only. You still want to torque them down using two nuts jammed together for final installation or removal. Attempting to remove a torqued stock with the hex is NOT approved and may damage the stud (twisting it)

Happy Motoring

///Mous3

Blue Loctite strong enough or do you go to Red?

va122

Hey Bill

I use 14x1.5x53mm bolts for my BBS e88's and BBS Mg RE's and the OE bolts for the stock wheels. I'd like to convert to studs, bbs recomends their 88mm studs but the shoulder does not work with the stock wheels, i need them threaded all the way to the hub. I prefer the bullet ends and to use an impact wrench.

What do you recomend for my application?

Apex996

You use loctite to prevent studs from vibrating loose AFTER they've been torqued down. You do not glue them in preventing removal. Blue is fine.

"Stormy" most likely needs the 90mm Bullet Nose Studs. Our unthreaded shoulder is small (about 9mm) and after sunk into the hub and after the brake disk is installed there is less than 5mm overlap. Your wheel thickness will almost surely take this distance up.

va122

Thank you alex. Please pm me pricing.

Will they work on my chrome spinners? Just kidding.

mooty

the BBS studs was what i was talking about. bull nosed but wont work with oem wheels. only bbs motorosport wheels. so i settle with CDOC stuff.

now apex seems to got it right with the 90mm studs.

todinlaw

Bill I am sorry I did not ask a clear question, I was asking about your pro/con or recomendation regarding the Option of what Nut to use... "Spherical Porsche nuts and Conical (aftermarket wheel) nuts. In Black Oxide and Zinc"