Help!..securing a 997RS to a trailer
09-16-2008, 08:35 AM
#1
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Help!..securing a 997RS to a trailer
Does anyone here trailer a 997RS?..when my car was shipped back for Germany it had significant suspension damage due to being tied down too tight. I have a half interest in a new Trailex trailer and am trying to figure ou tbest way to secure the car.
09-16-2008, 10:41 AM
#3
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Where did they tie it down that it damaged the suspension?
If the trailers open you can get to the jacking points fore and aft of the door. You just hook the tie downs there in the hole and run straight or crossed to the D-rings. In an enclosed trailer where you can't get under the car, you can use axel straps thru the wheels straight to the D-rings.
If the trailers open you can get to the jacking points fore and aft of the door. You just hook the tie downs there in the hole and run straight or crossed to the D-rings. In an enclosed trailer where you can't get under the car, you can use axel straps thru the wheels straight to the D-rings.
09-16-2008, 11:21 AM
#4
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They must have tried to pull the car apart by the wheels. Mine is secured almost entirely by the front wheels with no load on the suspension at all, in any direction. I use 2 token 1" straps at the rear tow eye, one to each D ring. Because these straps are secured to the car I just take up the slack, very little tension at all. I drilled a hole through my rear plate so I can just screw it in without removing the plate and plate holder.
09-16-2008, 07:20 PM
#6
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I have an enclosed trailer and I tow mine with 12 inch axle straps though the front wheels (I pad the wheel with a clean cotton diaper) and run the tie downs to the appropriate d-rings. Rear wheels the same way. Fronts lashed tight, then the back lashed tight. Out of gear, no emergency brake on.
I lash the back tight, just in case the front tie downs stretch a little.
I lash the back tight, just in case the front tie downs stretch a little.
09-16-2008, 08:37 PM
#7
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i use the jack pads and hook the strap right into the hole in the center of those and cross strap to front and rear D rings. works fine on enclosed trailer and quick. i use e-brake, strap the car down until all lines are taught, release e-brake to redistribute, strap down one more notch, then reapply e-brake. no gear of course. has worked well and car hasn't budged.
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09-16-2008, 10:47 PM
#9
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Another option, wratching strap with wheel loop and sleeve in one piece...
http://www.rtlglobalinc.com/servlet/...e-strap/Detail
http://www.rtlglobalinc.com/servlet/...e-strap/Detail
09-17-2008, 04:51 AM
#12
Your owners manual tells how to do it. Use wheel straps. Do NOT criss-cross the tiedowns.
-Drive the car into the trailer until it contacts the wheel stops.
-Put the transmission in neutral and leave it there.
-Tighten the front, then the rear strap ratchets mildly-moderately tight (Do NOT tighten the hell out of either-it will affect alignment.).
-Pull on the emergency brake.
-Check strap tension after 10--30 miles of towing, Should stay mild to moderate!
The idea here is to have the emergency brake be the primary fore-aft
locator (as it's designed to do), with the straps as strictly supportinjg members.
I've towed 30K+ miles using this system. The only problem I had was criss-crossed straps in the rear tightened to bowstring tension, pulling the rear camber to positive!
Regards.
-Drive the car into the trailer until it contacts the wheel stops.
-Put the transmission in neutral and leave it there.
-Tighten the front, then the rear strap ratchets mildly-moderately tight (Do NOT tighten the hell out of either-it will affect alignment.).
-Pull on the emergency brake.
-Check strap tension after 10--30 miles of towing, Should stay mild to moderate!
The idea here is to have the emergency brake be the primary fore-aft
locator (as it's designed to do), with the straps as strictly supportinjg members.
I've towed 30K+ miles using this system. The only problem I had was criss-crossed straps in the rear tightened to bowstring tension, pulling the rear camber to positive!
Regards.
