New GT3 RS WRAPPED///Premier Mobile Review ***PICS***
#16
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For track cars: How do you easily remove the rubber and all other "crap" marks over that film?
On my current cars I found it extremely difficult to remove those marks from the covered area while they are easily cleaned from the paint surface with almost any spray wax.
On my current cars I found it extremely difficult to remove those marks from the covered area while they are easily cleaned from the paint surface with almost any spray wax.
#17
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Thanks for the post AK997TT! Thank you for keeping our boys hydrated while they're working! To answer some questions here, there are 2 different types of cone marks:
1. slight abrasions - these can be removed with a tar remover or Goof Off (Googone) type chemical. Always to be sure if the chemical you are using is not damaging to the film, rub it in an inconspicuous area first.
2. cuts in the film - the cones at the autocross have a tarmac like black tip that when tilts over, grabs the sand / dirt to this area. When the car hits it at high speeds, it's similar to taking 250 grit sand paper to the paint or film - this is when you get permanent damage.
For some of our customers that track their vehicles heavily, they either apply a generous coat of wax or place some painter's tape on areas they tend to see cone swipe action.
1. slight abrasions - these can be removed with a tar remover or Goof Off (Googone) type chemical. Always to be sure if the chemical you are using is not damaging to the film, rub it in an inconspicuous area first.
2. cuts in the film - the cones at the autocross have a tarmac like black tip that when tilts over, grabs the sand / dirt to this area. When the car hits it at high speeds, it's similar to taking 250 grit sand paper to the paint or film - this is when you get permanent damage.
For some of our customers that track their vehicles heavily, they either apply a generous coat of wax or place some painter's tape on areas they tend to see cone swipe action.
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PREMIER PROTECTIVE FILMS
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CLEAR BRA CLEANER -TRACK MARKS ON CLEAR BRA - PF1 TTR!
http://www.premiermobilegroup.com/pf1_products.shtml
PREMIER PROTECTIVE FILMS
ClearGuard PPF Specialists, Spectra PhotoSync IRD & CeraLuxe IRD, Authorized Modesta and Nanolex Dealer
www.facebook.com/premierprotectivefilms
B: 510-623-1308
sales@premiermobilegroup.com
See Our Projects! http://www.facebook.com/premierprotectivefilms
CLEAR BRA CLEANER -TRACK MARKS ON CLEAR BRA - PF1 TTR!
http://www.premiermobilegroup.com/pf1_products.shtml
#18
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cgomez, I use "simple green" however after what Premier just said, I might start using Goof off. I was not using Goof off that because I thought it might be too harsh on the film.
#19
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what ever type of chemical used, be srue to apply a coat of sealant / wax right after as the harsher chemicals tend to strip the surface of protectants.
#20
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that is so sweet! those gals of yours look very nice sitting next to each other. btw, great job Premier! I've had the bra on my cars anywhere from 8 mos to 4 yrs and as happy as day 1. Thumbs up to you guys.
#21
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Nice pair.
And good to see a site sponsor getting the job done; confident to have the customer there recording the whole process.
Side by side, I'd say the nose and tail of the GT3 amplify the ... um ... peculiarities of the Turbo design ... : )
I'm curious to know what you've done with the concrete in your garage -- it looks like stone, but I guess it's an epoxy with additives. Looks a lot like what I have in mind for my garage.
And good to see a site sponsor getting the job done; confident to have the customer there recording the whole process.
Side by side, I'd say the nose and tail of the GT3 amplify the ... um ... peculiarities of the Turbo design ... : )
I'm curious to know what you've done with the concrete in your garage -- it looks like stone, but I guess it's an epoxy with additives. Looks a lot like what I have in mind for my garage.
#22
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3m adhesive remover, then wax over the affected area.
#23
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I also have Venture Shield on my car with the full hood, front fenders, front bumper, a-arms, roof up to sunroof, rockers, bottom 1/4 of the doors, and partial front and rear of rear fenders. This has worked very well in protecting the car. Oh, and also along the inside of the painted fenders where you get the rocks kicked up by the tires (this happens mostly on the lower back portions.
I do find Venture Shield to be a superior product to 3M (unless 3M bought them out). On my white GT3 it is still white and there is no yellowing of any kind. I also remember that the company who I ordered it from recommended the UV protected Venture Shield for the hood and fenders; I guess this helps to avoid the yellowing. The UV type is a little more expensive (maybe 20%) and so far seems to be working well.
The other areas that I cover on all of my cars and highly recommend are the head lights and fog lights; this is usually done with a thicker 30 mil film, but this last time I used some left-over regular thickness Venture Shield to do the lights and they have been fine so far. And the last area is the windshield. I use a race tear-off of either a single or two layer type. They actually make them up to 4 layers and you can put 3 x 4-layer pieces on for a total of 12 layers. But that is only for extreme track use and would get really expensive really quick. Just a single layer for the windshiled will do wonders and should last for about a year before needing to be replaced.
I do find Venture Shield to be a superior product to 3M (unless 3M bought them out). On my white GT3 it is still white and there is no yellowing of any kind. I also remember that the company who I ordered it from recommended the UV protected Venture Shield for the hood and fenders; I guess this helps to avoid the yellowing. The UV type is a little more expensive (maybe 20%) and so far seems to be working well.
The other areas that I cover on all of my cars and highly recommend are the head lights and fog lights; this is usually done with a thicker 30 mil film, but this last time I used some left-over regular thickness Venture Shield to do the lights and they have been fine so far. And the last area is the windshield. I use a race tear-off of either a single or two layer type. They actually make them up to 4 layers and you can put 3 x 4-layer pieces on for a total of 12 layers. But that is only for extreme track use and would get really expensive really quick. Just a single layer for the windshiled will do wonders and should last for about a year before needing to be replaced.
#24
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Carrera GT, the floor was finished by Premier Garage http://www.premiergarage.com/flooring.html . It is a polymer finish that is very durable, attractive, and easy to keep clean. It does not leave any tire marks and it feels good to walk and work on. Mine is the Sedona finish with 1/4 inch chips. It has a granite appearance and looks awesome with the RS and TT. I had mine installed over a year ago and it has no wear whatsoever.
#25
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Dude, you are my hero! That RS is soooo nice, and I love that coating on the Garage floor. I did a VersaFlex clearcoating with light grey 3m colored sand, I was sold because it was not supposed to yellow by UV like all epoxy's do. I'm very disappointed with it as it shows every tire market, yellowed where the tires sit, and is super slick after a good wash. SUX's.
Venture Shield is far superior over the 3m produce...as the 3m kits have way too many cuts.
PS becareful with at painted front lip....as no shield will protect that.
Venture Shield is far superior over the 3m produce...as the 3m kits have way too many cuts.
PS becareful with at painted front lip....as no shield will protect that.
#26
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Carrera GT, the floor was finished by Premier Garage http://www.premiergarage.com/flooring.html . It is a polymer finish that is very durable, attractive, and easy to keep clean. It does not leave any tire marks and it feels good to walk and work on. Mine is the Sedona finish with 1/4 inch chips. It has a granite appearance and looks awesome with the RS and TT. I had mine installed over a year ago and it has no wear whatsoever.
The by-pass sliding door cabinets on their site look interesting too. Hopefully the garage will soon become one of the nicest spaces in the house. : )
A quick Google shows a couple of places providing polymer garage flooring. I've had mixed results with various epoxy products (from the stuff on the shelf at Home Depot to expensive two-part 100% solids that cost as much as putting down imported tile ...) Anyway, I think I'll give this polymer stuff a try on an outside parking area (about 1000 sqft) and see if it holds up to the traffic and the weather.
http://www.garagefloors.com/
#27
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They did a site visit and went over all the options before they provided a quote. They did not add anything after that. I think the pricing was by the sq ft but I don't remember the rate. It took two days to do the job and another 24 hours to cure before I could use the garage. They provided a trailer for me to load all the garage stuff in so that it was completely empty. One thing they did not talk about on the site visit was the levelness of the concrete floor. This may (or may not) be important because any unlevel spots will show up once the coating is applied. I had a couple of unlevel spots on my floor that show and it bothered me at first but I got over it.
Their cabinets look awesome and I plan to add some in the future. They hang from the wall and keep the floor underneath exposed for a real clean look. They are 1 inch think and appear to be very durable in addition to pleasing to the eye. Good luck on your search.
Bill
Their cabinets look awesome and I plan to add some in the future. They hang from the wall and keep the floor underneath exposed for a real clean look. They are 1 inch think and appear to be very durable in addition to pleasing to the eye. Good luck on your search.
Bill