Recomendation for floor jack & socket set
06-15-2008, 12:40 AM
#16
1) ACH-DK13HLQ
Service Jack, 2800 lb. capacity, High Lifting (AC Hydraulic: model DK13HLQ)
$369.00
1) ACH-3601400
Service Jack Accessory, Rubber Contact Pad (AC Hydraulic: model 3601400)
$20.00
1) ACH-5800000
Service Jack Accessory, Cross-Beam Adaptor (AC Hydraulic: model 5800000)
$109.00
--------------------------------
Total Shipping Charges: $75.00
Taxes: $0.00
Total $573.00.
Service Jack, 2800 lb. capacity, High Lifting (AC Hydraulic: model DK13HLQ)
$369.00
1) ACH-3601400
Service Jack Accessory, Rubber Contact Pad (AC Hydraulic: model 3601400)
$20.00
1) ACH-5800000
Service Jack Accessory, Cross-Beam Adaptor (AC Hydraulic: model 5800000)
$109.00
--------------------------------
Total Shipping Charges: $75.00
Taxes: $0.00
Total $573.00.
06-15-2008, 10:32 AM
#17
Rennlist Member
I use a trolley jack from Sears which was around 40-50 bucks. It works great. I do place a rubber pad (from Paragon) on it but as others have pointed out a hockey puck works fine.
This jack is heavy but does fit in the trunk if one so desires. It jacks high enough so that the front and rear wheels can be lifted off the ground when jacking from the rear point (last pic).
Sears now has a 2 1/2 ton low profile successor for 50 bucks.
This jack is heavy but does fit in the trunk if one so desires. It jacks high enough so that the front and rear wheels can be lifted off the ground when jacking from the rear point (last pic).
Sears now has a 2 1/2 ton low profile successor for 50 bucks.
06-15-2008, 10:40 AM
#18
Rennlist Member
I also meant to add that I do have one of the "soft sockets" which I think I got from Boothe. I believe it is teflon lined and does keep the bolts in good shape. I stopped using it though because the liner periodically would get stuck on the wheel bolt and I worried that my torque values might not be true since the liner likely compresses (not sure about this though).
The wheels hangers are also a great thing. I use two of them now when I change my wheels mainly because it lets me put less stress on my back when lifting those ginormous piggy wheels that my car came with! I understand these are a must have for PCCB owners to avoid an expensive rotor bumping maneuver.
The wheels hangers are also a great thing. I use two of them now when I change my wheels mainly because it lets me put less stress on my back when lifting those ginormous piggy wheels that my car came with! I understand these are a must have for PCCB owners to avoid an expensive rotor bumping maneuver.
06-15-2008, 11:35 AM
#19
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Get a nice torque wrench too to properly tighten the bolts and tighten in a star pattern in numerical order like this:
-------------1---------------
3----------------------------4
-----5---------------2--------
My favorite torque wrenches are the click-type from Stahlwille, since they are very reliable, durable and you don't need to set them back to zero after use.
Here's one - they are pricey and German, but the best (like a GT3):
http://www.toolsource.com/72115-mano...0-p-94826.html
Here's the manufacturers website for their torque wrenches - everything else they sell is superb too:
http://www.stahlwille-online.de/inde...=4893&cid=4895
-------------1---------------
3----------------------------4
-----5---------------2--------
My favorite torque wrenches are the click-type from Stahlwille, since they are very reliable, durable and you don't need to set them back to zero after use.
Here's one - they are pricey and German, but the best (like a GT3):
http://www.toolsource.com/72115-mano...0-p-94826.html
Here's the manufacturers website for their torque wrenches - everything else they sell is superb too:
http://www.stahlwille-online.de/inde...=4893&cid=4895
06-15-2008, 01:01 PM
#20
I also meant to add that I do have one of the "soft sockets" which I think I got from Boothe. I believe it is teflon lined and does keep the bolts in good shape. I stopped using it though because the liner periodically would get stuck on the wheel bolt and I worried that my torque values might not be true since the liner likely compresses (not sure about this though).
The wheels hangers are also a great thing. I use two of them now when I change my wheels mainly because it lets me put less stress on my back when lifting those ginormous piggy wheels that my car came with! I understand these are a must have for PCCB owners to avoid an expensive rotor bumping maneuver.
The wheels hangers are also a great thing. I use two of them now when I change my wheels mainly because it lets me put less stress on my back when lifting those ginormous piggy wheels that my car came with! I understand these are a must have for PCCB owners to avoid an expensive rotor bumping maneuver.
The wheel guide pins from Porsche are aluminum and relatively cheap -- buying enough extras to have two on each wheel at once is a nice time-saver in the paddock. If you have the resources, cutting a hex into the end of the bolt (or using epoxy to glue a hex to them) would make it easy to spin them on and off with the gun.) A little dry lube on the threads helps prevent the aluminum from binding in the hub so they spin in an out freely. Keep in mind the pins protect the back the wheel, the caliper paint and the rotor as well as saving time and holding the wheel ready for the first lug bolt.
