Flat TYRE message wont go away. Ideas?
#1
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I had the rears changed a couple weeks ago and I have had
a flat tyre message since. The TPS shows 28 PSI in both rears
yet it shows the drivers side flat and the "!" mark is still there
and everytime I power up I get the red flat tyre message.
I tried clearing it with my code reader but it shows no codes.
How about disconnecting the battery?
any other ideas?
It couldnt be you have to go to the dealer everytime you
have a change or flat could it??
a flat tyre message since. The TPS shows 28 PSI in both rears
yet it shows the drivers side flat and the "!" mark is still there
and everytime I power up I get the red flat tyre message.
I tried clearing it with my code reader but it shows no codes.
How about disconnecting the battery?
any other ideas?
It couldnt be you have to go to the dealer everytime you
have a change or flat could it??
#2
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INflate your rear tires to 36 lbs and wait drive for ten minutes. It should go away. 28 lbs is too low. I get it when I drop te cold pressures at the track. Alternately have your dealer program TPS off. See the thread (search this forum for turning off tps).
Best,
Best,
#3
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Bob, thanks. After 3 months of my wifes Z4M TPS not working I dont want my GT3 doing the same thing.
Now whats going to happen when I move to 18's?
Now whats going to happen when I move to 18's?
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Just re-set it from the menu and drive untill it says that it learned your settings. Took me around 30 minutes in a previous 997.
You can ask your dealer to shut it off using the PIWIS once you have your 18's.
You can ask your dealer to shut it off using the PIWIS once you have your 18's.
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i think your TPMS is broken.
when you change tire, as long as the tpms sensor is mounted correctly, you use the control to reset the tire to summer tires and just drive for 20 miles all will be set to normal.
if it fails to do so,
1. the true tire pressure is too low
2. tmps computer is malfuntioning.
dealer cannot reprogram tpms to take a lower pressure as normal, at least i cannot find any dealer to do so.
i dont think sharkey can reprogram the computer wither. he has hammer. you need the latest piwis.
i had enough prob with it as i run my tires cold at 26psi, so i just had dealer turn the TPMS off completely. there is no reason to have that thing. i and you should too, chk pressure at least once a week, and if you have FLAT, you should know while driving it. if you can't feel it, well.... you need to learn how to feel it.
just kill it.
when you change tire, as long as the tpms sensor is mounted correctly, you use the control to reset the tire to summer tires and just drive for 20 miles all will be set to normal.
if it fails to do so,
1. the true tire pressure is too low
2. tmps computer is malfuntioning.
dealer cannot reprogram tpms to take a lower pressure as normal, at least i cannot find any dealer to do so.
i dont think sharkey can reprogram the computer wither. he has hammer. you need the latest piwis.
i had enough prob with it as i run my tires cold at 26psi, so i just had dealer turn the TPMS off completely. there is no reason to have that thing. i and you should too, chk pressure at least once a week, and if you have FLAT, you should know while driving it. if you can't feel it, well.... you need to learn how to feel it.
just kill it.
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#9
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Sounds like it's time to trade it in on that new GTR you've previously mentioned. ![ducking](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/icon107.gif)
Seriously, does it do the same thing when the tires are inflated to say, 32 psi?
![ducking](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/icon107.gif)
Seriously, does it do the same thing when the tires are inflated to say, 32 psi?
#11
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I had no problems switching to 18's. As mentioned, just set the pressures and go to the TPMS menu to reinitilize it and put it in the learn mode. Then drive until it learns! But if you need at least 28 cold, that I was not aware of. I just set mine to the recommended 29 and 33 cold and call it good.
Oh, I just remembered; I went up to 30-31 cold in the front and 34 cold in the rear when I went to the 18's. I did this based on my own theory that is not based on anything I have ever read. I figured since I went with a 255 front (still 35 stock ratio) and 315 rear (still 30 ratio as stock), then in my little mind I figured the tires would need a little more pressure to "bridge" the wider gap between the sidewalls in order to keep the contact patch flat. I'm assuming that the recommend pressures for the stock tires are set up to keep the patch as flat as possible. And since I've always read/heard that too much pressure causes more wear in the inner part of the tire, and too little causes more on the outer sides of the tire, that I needed to increase the front because of the extra 20 mm of width (keep that center supported and flat) and the rear also, but not as much, because of the extra 10 mm of width.
But I have no idea if my thinking is correct and I'm glad I came out of the closet and finally posted the truth about one of my tire beliefs. Keep in mind that I am only commenting on pressures for street use and optimal tire wear. Could someone comment on my slight increase in the recommended pressures due to the wider tire size? Is my thinking correct or do I need to put down my crack pipe?
Oh, I just remembered; I went up to 30-31 cold in the front and 34 cold in the rear when I went to the 18's. I did this based on my own theory that is not based on anything I have ever read. I figured since I went with a 255 front (still 35 stock ratio) and 315 rear (still 30 ratio as stock), then in my little mind I figured the tires would need a little more pressure to "bridge" the wider gap between the sidewalls in order to keep the contact patch flat. I'm assuming that the recommend pressures for the stock tires are set up to keep the patch as flat as possible. And since I've always read/heard that too much pressure causes more wear in the inner part of the tire, and too little causes more on the outer sides of the tire, that I needed to increase the front because of the extra 20 mm of width (keep that center supported and flat) and the rear also, but not as much, because of the extra 10 mm of width.
But I have no idea if my thinking is correct and I'm glad I came out of the closet and finally posted the truth about one of my tire beliefs. Keep in mind that I am only commenting on pressures for street use and optimal tire wear. Could someone comment on my slight increase in the recommended pressures due to the wider tire size? Is my thinking correct or do I need to put down my crack pipe?
#12
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Just have the dealer turn it off. I am going to as soon as I buy my next set of rims. When i go to the track it is nothing but a disability. further, mine is off by 3 lbs. I put 26 lbs of air in my tires at the track and the TPM was showing 23. so not only is the warning annoying when at the track but the reading is off too. I am just going to pull the plug on it.
#15
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Yesterday, I instructed a first timer in a 997 S and it had pressure monitoring. The dealer had set the PS2,s Rear at 44, front @ 39. I had him drop the rears to 36 and the fronts to 32. This was before we ever set rubber to the track. It thru a fault code FLAT TIRE WARNING. I got out and checked and all was well the student drove and he didn't heat them enough to ever erase the warning. After another session we dropped more pressure and equalized the right and left. Still FLAT TIRE.
Then I drove and the rears got to 40 and the fronts were 37 38 and the light went out. I am used to 18" wheels so I wanted 36 - 35 hot rears and 33 - 34 hot fronts. The question is do 19" wheels require more pressure? I hate to instruct a newbie with bad info.
Then I drove and the rears got to 40 and the fronts were 37 38 and the light went out. I am used to 18" wheels so I wanted 36 - 35 hot rears and 33 - 34 hot fronts. The question is do 19" wheels require more pressure? I hate to instruct a newbie with bad info.