Track alignment for GT3
#1
Track alignment for GT3
Hey guys,
Just wanted to see what your settings are for track on Gt3. Are you guys pretty much follow the numbers on manual?
It would be most helpful if I can retrieve advanced driver's car settings are. and what track you been successful....
TIA
Just wanted to see what your settings are for track on Gt3. Are you guys pretty much follow the numbers on manual?
It would be most helpful if I can retrieve advanced driver's car settings are. and what track you been successful....
TIA
#4
Lot already posted on alignment specs also so if you do a search you can find much info. Mooty can certainly offer great advice but since you're in SoCal you also might want to drop by GMG and have them set it up. I think they have a bit of experience in this area. Of course they'll probably just wind up talking you into upgrading to a completely new suspension so that might not be the most economical choice
#5
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From: Exit Row seats
I run the GMG specs on my RS. love it- much better than stock.
for a stock car- the GT3 and the RS are rad. but for the track- getting rid of the body roll is imperative. Also, turn-in is improved with a few different camber and sway bar tricks.
not everyone will agree because we all want our cars to handle differently...this works for me, but I know some guys are running up to one full degree more negative camber than I am.
for a stock car- the GT3 and the RS are rad. but for the track- getting rid of the body roll is imperative. Also, turn-in is improved with a few different camber and sway bar tricks.
not everyone will agree because we all want our cars to handle differently...this works for me, but I know some guys are running up to one full degree more negative camber than I am.
#6
My alignment is : F: -2 deg. camber, 2 min toe out, caster 8
R:-2 deg. camber, 16 min toe in.
I do not know if it is any good, that is all I have tried. R6 wear pretty evenly, MPSC wear very fast in the back.
I have full soft front and full stiff in the rear.
I would love to hear more people om this subject as it seems to be a big secret for a lot o people.
Stephan
R:-2 deg. camber, 16 min toe in.
I do not know if it is any good, that is all I have tried. R6 wear pretty evenly, MPSC wear very fast in the back.
I have full soft front and full stiff in the rear.
I would love to hear more people om this subject as it seems to be a big secret for a lot o people.
Stephan
#7
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From: san francisco
front
camber -3.5
toe out 1/16
bar one from soft
rear
camber -3
toe in 3/16
bar full stiff
i dont frequent WS or BW much.
mostly LS, SP and TH.
i also prefer my car to understeer.
camber -3.5
toe out 1/16
bar one from soft
rear
camber -3
toe in 3/16
bar full stiff
i dont frequent WS or BW much.
mostly LS, SP and TH.
i also prefer my car to understeer.
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#8
front
-2.8 camber
toe out 1/16
bar 2nd softest (may move to one stiffer with a 265 front tire this year - not sure yet)
rear
-2.2 camber
toe in 3/16
997gt2 bar middle hole (20% stiffer than gt3 bar)
rs wing at 10degress (i drive to the track and want all the insurance i can get)
i also prefer my car to understeer very slightly
car is corner balanced but kept as high as possible (stock like) at the front in order to remain streetable and to get up my driveway
with my new Paul Guard LSD (50/80 lockup) I may have to change some of the above but I have not yet driven on the track with it yet
my style of driving is to be very smooth with the throttle and more aggressive with the brakes if necessary if i need to rotate the car in slower turns
at -2.2 in the rear, the rears still go first compared to the fronts at -2.8 - that said, this setup is far superior to the "manual track setup" from both a tire wear perspective (-2.5 and above is death on the street on the rears inside edges) and light years ahead from a driver enjoyment perspective on the track
all of the above is of course very tire dependant
-2.8 camber
toe out 1/16
bar 2nd softest (may move to one stiffer with a 265 front tire this year - not sure yet)
rear
-2.2 camber
toe in 3/16
997gt2 bar middle hole (20% stiffer than gt3 bar)
rs wing at 10degress (i drive to the track and want all the insurance i can get)
i also prefer my car to understeer very slightly
car is corner balanced but kept as high as possible (stock like) at the front in order to remain streetable and to get up my driveway
with my new Paul Guard LSD (50/80 lockup) I may have to change some of the above but I have not yet driven on the track with it yet
my style of driving is to be very smooth with the throttle and more aggressive with the brakes if necessary if i need to rotate the car in slower turns
at -2.2 in the rear, the rears still go first compared to the fronts at -2.8 - that said, this setup is far superior to the "manual track setup" from both a tire wear perspective (-2.5 and above is death on the street on the rears inside edges) and light years ahead from a driver enjoyment perspective on the track
all of the above is of course very tire dependant
#9
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From: Exit Row seats
-2.2 front with .7deg toe out lowered 10mm
-2.4 rear with .9deg toe in lowered 10mm
Wing set almost to full attack, Cup front spoiler lip w/no holes
I forget the sway bar settings...but I'm pretty sure they're different- stiffer front and middle rear
running 19" mpsc.
our track has a few higher speed sweepers and some 2nd gear linked scrubbers, and I really like the set up for it.
-2.4 rear with .9deg toe in lowered 10mm
Wing set almost to full attack, Cup front spoiler lip w/no holes
I forget the sway bar settings...but I'm pretty sure they're different- stiffer front and middle rear
running 19" mpsc.
our track has a few higher speed sweepers and some 2nd gear linked scrubbers, and I really like the set up for it.
#10
what are the ideal toe settings front and rear for hard braking stability. Also, don't want sharp oversteer situations. My current settings are as follows and the car feels tail happy...ask me how i know.
Camber: -2.2 F/-2 R
Toe: 0 F/+16 per side Rear
Thanks guys...
Camber: -2.2 F/-2 R
Toe: 0 F/+16 per side Rear
Thanks guys...
#11
-2.2 front with .7deg toe out lowered 10mm
-2.4 rear with .9deg toe in lowered 10mm
Wing set almost to full attack, Cup front spoiler lip w/no holes
I forget the sway bar settings...but I'm pretty sure they're different- stiffer front and middle rear
running 19" mpsc.
our track has a few higher speed sweepers and some 2nd gear linked scrubbers, and I really like the set up for it.
-2.4 rear with .9deg toe in lowered 10mm
Wing set almost to full attack, Cup front spoiler lip w/no holes
I forget the sway bar settings...but I'm pretty sure they're different- stiffer front and middle rear
running 19" mpsc.
our track has a few higher speed sweepers and some 2nd gear linked scrubbers, and I really like the set up for it.
#12
front
-2.8 camber
toe out 1/16
bar 2nd softest (may move to one stiffer with a 265 front tire this year - not sure yet)
rear
-2.2 camber
toe in 3/16
997gt2 bar middle hole (20% stiffer than gt3 bar)
rs wing at 10degress (i drive to the track and want all the insurance i can get)
i also prefer my car to understeer very slightly
car is corner balanced but kept as high as possible (stock like) at the front in order to remain streetable and to get up my driveway
with my new Paul Guard LSD (50/80 lockup) I may have to change some of the above but I have not yet driven on the track with it yet
my style of driving is to be very smooth with the throttle and more aggressive with the brakes if necessary if i need to rotate the car in slower turns
at -2.2 in the rear, the rears still go first compared to the fronts at -2.8 - that said, this setup is far superior to the "manual track setup" from both a tire wear perspective (-2.5 and above is death on the street on the rears inside edges) and light years ahead from a driver enjoyment perspective on the track
all of the above is of course very tire dependant
-2.8 camber
toe out 1/16
bar 2nd softest (may move to one stiffer with a 265 front tire this year - not sure yet)
rear
-2.2 camber
toe in 3/16
997gt2 bar middle hole (20% stiffer than gt3 bar)
rs wing at 10degress (i drive to the track and want all the insurance i can get)
i also prefer my car to understeer very slightly
car is corner balanced but kept as high as possible (stock like) at the front in order to remain streetable and to get up my driveway
with my new Paul Guard LSD (50/80 lockup) I may have to change some of the above but I have not yet driven on the track with it yet
my style of driving is to be very smooth with the throttle and more aggressive with the brakes if necessary if i need to rotate the car in slower turns
at -2.2 in the rear, the rears still go first compared to the fronts at -2.8 - that said, this setup is far superior to the "manual track setup" from both a tire wear perspective (-2.5 and above is death on the street on the rears inside edges) and light years ahead from a driver enjoyment perspective on the track
all of the above is of course very tire dependant
you running 18"s or 19"s?
#13
#14
I've played around with the "race" settings in the factory specs. I don't see too much more toe out being useful. I think a 1/16th should be good. But I'm curious to hear of folks trying to get the car to be more responsive on turn in.
-3.5 / -3.0 seems good too. Not too friendly for durability on the street, but I seem to recall temps suggesting I needed more camber on the front when I had -3.0 ... hardly "scientific" but that's my last handwritten note.
Going to the GT2 rear sway is probably the single most important -- of the affordable -- tweaks.
#15
FU dork. Wake up a little earlier next time I work on your car.
start with the factory track spec and work from there. anything more aggressive and your cheap tires will get expensive quick replacing every couple months.