Hoosier R6 Tire life
#46
I went out on Friday with a set of Used R888's (60% Worn) and brand New Heat Cycled R6 Hoosiers from Tire Rack.
I had a PRO along in the car to give me feedback on the tyre pressures, tyres and car setup.
I had a pyromoter on hand.
I was running 3.5 degrees neg camber on the front and 3 degrees on the rear
The track was perfect - Air temp was 22 degrees C or 72 degrees. the 'fastest' pressure for the Hoosiers was 32 hot front and 33 Hot Rear. any more and i was dropping grip. the track has lots of heavy braking and tight corners.
The Toyos ran best at 32/33 and 34/35 Rear HOT.
This is lower than most people run i know. most people i speak to though have rarely, if ever, tried the lower pressures. all i can say is Try it!
the Hoosier temp was meaured HOT using a pyromoter was 70 - 80 degrees C or 160F - 180F at the rear. The fronts where running 20 degrees cooler than the rears.
There was a 7 - 10 degree C spread from outside to inside.
the Verdict - the Hoosier is faster but by a LOT less than i expected.
back to back, there was just on 1 second in it.
The Hoosiers where actually 245/40 and 315/30 18's
the Toyos where the first set i bought and all i could get in tyre size at the time was 235/40 Front and 295/30 Rears. amazing that we often go much larger on the rear but the car was fine even with the narrower rears on the day.
Rims where 18x8.5 and 18x11
I suspect a fresh set of Toyos with more width front and rear would close the gap a little more.
If i get a chance, i will run 2 sets Fresh back to back.
I had a PRO along in the car to give me feedback on the tyre pressures, tyres and car setup.
I had a pyromoter on hand.
I was running 3.5 degrees neg camber on the front and 3 degrees on the rear
The track was perfect - Air temp was 22 degrees C or 72 degrees. the 'fastest' pressure for the Hoosiers was 32 hot front and 33 Hot Rear. any more and i was dropping grip. the track has lots of heavy braking and tight corners.
The Toyos ran best at 32/33 and 34/35 Rear HOT.
This is lower than most people run i know. most people i speak to though have rarely, if ever, tried the lower pressures. all i can say is Try it!
the Hoosier temp was meaured HOT using a pyromoter was 70 - 80 degrees C or 160F - 180F at the rear. The fronts where running 20 degrees cooler than the rears.
There was a 7 - 10 degree C spread from outside to inside.
the Verdict - the Hoosier is faster but by a LOT less than i expected.
back to back, there was just on 1 second in it.
The Hoosiers where actually 245/40 and 315/30 18's
the Toyos where the first set i bought and all i could get in tyre size at the time was 235/40 Front and 295/30 Rears. amazing that we often go much larger on the rear but the car was fine even with the narrower rears on the day.
Rims where 18x8.5 and 18x11
I suspect a fresh set of Toyos with more width front and rear would close the gap a little more.
If i get a chance, i will run 2 sets Fresh back to back.
#48
GT3 player par excellence
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 43,566
Likes: 5,898
From: san francisco
#49
great thanks
mooty - sometime in the nxt 2months, i will ty a new set of r888's back to back woth Hoosiers.
i am inclind if the gap is circa 0.5 second to ditch the hoosiers. its so much easier to drive out, track and go home than it is to do a wheel change at the track.
mooty - sometime in the nxt 2months, i will ty a new set of r888's back to back woth Hoosiers.
i am inclind if the gap is circa 0.5 second to ditch the hoosiers. its so much easier to drive out, track and go home than it is to do a wheel change at the track.
#50
A little OT... But how does driving on the street slightly with your track tires affect the grip, heat cycles and so on between events, say driving to the shop to get your car checked out, or just around town for a few miles??
#51
GT3 player par excellence
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 43,566
Likes: 5,898
From: san francisco
track camber and toe will eat up inside tread.
but no negative issues with regard to reduction in grip.
#52
Ok cool... My friend actually told me it's like a light shaving on the street since they don't even get hot to wear down much, and can increase the lifespan and grip, don't know how accurate that is, guess in colder climates that can be true!
#53
after my last event at Barber this past weekend, my instructor and i agreed that i've reached the limit on the sport cups. meaning i should move to some hoosiers or should i just go with the R888's. im not doing any racing just DE's like the most of us. what do you guys think
#54
after my last event at Barber this past weekend, my instructor and i agreed that i've reached the limit on the sport cups. meaning i should move to some hoosiers or should i just go with the R888's. im not doing any racing just DE's like the most of us. what do you guys think
#55
after my last event at Barber this past weekend, my instructor and i agreed that i've reached the limit on the sport cups. meaning i should move to some hoosiers or should i just go with the R888's. im not doing any racing just DE's like the most of us. what do you guys think
I suppose it boils down to how much you want your car to feel more like a race car on the track. The R6's really get you there, with incredible grip, lower center of gravity, and lower effective gear ratio.
#56
I haven't tried the R888's yet, but I did a couple of days at Infineon on the sport cups, then switched to the Hoosier R6's. Incredible difference. Not even in the same ballpark.
I suppose it boils down to how much you want your car to feel more like a race car on the track. The R6's really get you there, with incredible grip, lower center of gravity, and lower effective gear ratio.
I suppose it boils down to how much you want your car to feel more like a race car on the track. The R6's really get you there, with incredible grip, lower center of gravity, and lower effective gear ratio.
#58
Ok, 3 days (3+5+4 = 12 sessions of approx 30 min) and mu first set of R6's for the season are shot. they have a bit of tread (1/32) left but are heat cycled hard. This is getting expensive. 30 track days = 10 sets of tires in a season! I had these heat cycled by TR, but it did not seem to make a difference. Anyone ever try Nitto NT-01's shaved down? The BMWs seem to go pretty fast on them.