GT3 RS Track Setup
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GT3 RS Track Setup
I'm Tracking the GT3 RS at Barber Motorsport Park for the first time in about two weeks. Anyone have any suggestions for the setup?
1) Negative Camber etc?
2) Beginning Tire Pressures?
Anything else I may be missing?
Thanks,
Philip
1) Negative Camber etc?
2) Beginning Tire Pressures?
Anything else I may be missing?
Thanks,
Philip
#2
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tire pressure: assuming MPSC 32/35hot
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Wow, I didn't even no that the manual had a track alignment settings. The hot tire pressure you mention, is a far cry from what I used to run on the 996 GT3. Thanks
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almost all the GT3's in CA that runs MPSC are 32-33hot front, 34-45hot rear.
pg 249 on owner's manual
#5
Here is a detailed article and all you need to know about MPSC tires and pressures:
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete...nd_Feeding.pdf
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete...nd_Feeding.pdf
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Phil - this is the set up that works on my RS. The car is neutral on both the street OEM tires and Hoosier R6s.
Front:
Camber Neg 2.5 degrees. Rotate the struts to get about neg 2.0; use shims in the lower A arm to get the rest. You need the shims to get enough caster.
Toe in 2 minutes per wheel. Note you can go zero toe but I prefer a bit of toe in for the long and boring drive home after a track day at Calabogie - aboout 3 hours away.
Rear Camber neg 2.4 degrees. You don't need as much at the back because the wheel is wider (12 inches versus 8.5 in front). Rear toe-in 17 minutes per wheel. Note that the combo of toe in and camber will wear out the inside edges of the tires if you drive on the street a lot.
Sway bars in the neutral (middle) position front and rear. This allows for some additional tweaking to suit track conditions.
Best,
Front:
Camber Neg 2.5 degrees. Rotate the struts to get about neg 2.0; use shims in the lower A arm to get the rest. You need the shims to get enough caster.
Toe in 2 minutes per wheel. Note you can go zero toe but I prefer a bit of toe in for the long and boring drive home after a track day at Calabogie - aboout 3 hours away.
Rear Camber neg 2.4 degrees. You don't need as much at the back because the wheel is wider (12 inches versus 8.5 in front). Rear toe-in 17 minutes per wheel. Note that the combo of toe in and camber will wear out the inside edges of the tires if you drive on the street a lot.
Sway bars in the neutral (middle) position front and rear. This allows for some additional tweaking to suit track conditions.
Best,
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#9
Phil - this is the set up that works on my RS. The car is neutral on both the street OEM tires and Hoosier R6s.
Front:
Camber Neg 2.5 degrees. Rotate the struts to get about neg 2.0; use shims in the lower A arm to get the rest. You need the shims to get enough caster.
Toe in 2 minutes per wheel. Note you can go zero toe but I prefer a bit of toe in for the long and boring drive home after a track day at Calabogie - aboout 3 hours away.
Rear Camber neg 2.4 degrees. You don't need as much at the back because the wheel is wider (12 inches versus 8.5 in front). Rear toe-in 17 minutes per wheel. Note that the combo of toe in and camber will wear out the inside edges of the tires if you drive on the street a lot.
Sway bars in the neutral (middle) position front and rear. This allows for some additional tweaking to suit track conditions.
Best,
Front:
Camber Neg 2.5 degrees. Rotate the struts to get about neg 2.0; use shims in the lower A arm to get the rest. You need the shims to get enough caster.
Toe in 2 minutes per wheel. Note you can go zero toe but I prefer a bit of toe in for the long and boring drive home after a track day at Calabogie - aboout 3 hours away.
Rear Camber neg 2.4 degrees. You don't need as much at the back because the wheel is wider (12 inches versus 8.5 in front). Rear toe-in 17 minutes per wheel. Note that the combo of toe in and camber will wear out the inside edges of the tires if you drive on the street a lot.
Sway bars in the neutral (middle) position front and rear. This allows for some additional tweaking to suit track conditions.
Best,
Curious to know what effect the rear sway bar change has? As standard my RS came set to full stiff. The front bar came set in the middle (of the 5 settings).
What does moving the rear bar to the middle do to the handling balance?
Thanks,
Scott
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Moving the bar to the middle means more body roll in back and more grip at the back. All else being equal it would mean more understeer or less oversteer. With the camber and toe I use the car would oversteer in fast corners with the rear bar full stiff.
#14
I suggest that you also consider changing your brake pads to Pagid RS29's for the track. The difference is substantial. Good luck!