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GT3 RS Track Setup

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Old 11-20-2007, 12:25 AM
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Philip in AL
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Default GT3 RS Track Setup

I'm Tracking the GT3 RS at Barber Motorsport Park for the first time in about two weeks. Anyone have any suggestions for the setup?

1) Negative Camber etc?
2) Beginning Tire Pressures?

Anything else I may be missing?

Thanks,
Philip
Old 11-20-2007, 01:42 AM
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mooty
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Originally Posted by Philip in AL
I'm Tracking the GT3 RS at Barber Motorsport Park for the first time in about two weeks. Anyone have any suggestions for the setup?

1) Negative Camber etc?
2) Beginning Tire Pressures?

Anything else I may be missing?

Thanks,
Philip
camber: start with track alignment in the manual and adj from there, you will feel push but i think it s better to start with push and adj toward neutral/lose.

tire pressure: assuming MPSC 32/35hot
Old 11-20-2007, 12:04 PM
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Philip in AL
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Wow, I didn't even no that the manual had a track alignment settings. The hot tire pressure you mention, is a far cry from what I used to run on the 996 GT3. Thanks
Old 11-20-2007, 01:13 PM
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mooty
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Originally Posted by Philip in AL
Wow, I didn't even no that the manual had a track alignment settings. The hot tire pressure you mention, is a far cry from what I used to run on the 996 GT3. Thanks
what is your hot pressure on MPSC on 996gt3.
almost all the GT3's in CA that runs MPSC are 32-33hot front, 34-45hot rear.

pg 249 on owner's manual
Old 11-20-2007, 01:21 PM
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PogueMoHone
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Here is a detailed article and all you need to know about MPSC tires and pressures:

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete...nd_Feeding.pdf
Old 11-20-2007, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by mooty
..., 34-45hot rear.
did you mean 34-35?
Old 11-20-2007, 03:39 PM
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Bob Rouleau

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Phil - this is the set up that works on my RS. The car is neutral on both the street OEM tires and Hoosier R6s.

Front:

Camber Neg 2.5 degrees. Rotate the struts to get about neg 2.0; use shims in the lower A arm to get the rest. You need the shims to get enough caster.

Toe in 2 minutes per wheel. Note you can go zero toe but I prefer a bit of toe in for the long and boring drive home after a track day at Calabogie - aboout 3 hours away.

Rear Camber neg 2.4 degrees. You don't need as much at the back because the wheel is wider (12 inches versus 8.5 in front). Rear toe-in 17 minutes per wheel. Note that the combo of toe in and camber will wear out the inside edges of the tires if you drive on the street a lot.

Sway bars in the neutral (middle) position front and rear. This allows for some additional tweaking to suit track conditions.

Best,
Old 11-20-2007, 05:08 PM
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Phil, what's the event and what are the dares at Barber? I am tempted, if there are spots left.

Tico
Old 11-20-2007, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob Rouleau
Phil - this is the set up that works on my RS. The car is neutral on both the street OEM tires and Hoosier R6s.

Front:

Camber Neg 2.5 degrees. Rotate the struts to get about neg 2.0; use shims in the lower A arm to get the rest. You need the shims to get enough caster.

Toe in 2 minutes per wheel. Note you can go zero toe but I prefer a bit of toe in for the long and boring drive home after a track day at Calabogie - aboout 3 hours away.

Rear Camber neg 2.4 degrees. You don't need as much at the back because the wheel is wider (12 inches versus 8.5 in front). Rear toe-in 17 minutes per wheel. Note that the combo of toe in and camber will wear out the inside edges of the tires if you drive on the street a lot.

Sway bars in the neutral (middle) position front and rear. This allows for some additional tweaking to suit track conditions.

Best,
Hi Bob

Curious to know what effect the rear sway bar change has? As standard my RS came set to full stiff. The front bar came set in the middle (of the 5 settings).

What does moving the rear bar to the middle do to the handling balance?

Thanks,

Scott
Old 11-20-2007, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by doc2s
did you mean 34-35?
sorry, you are right 34-35.
at 45, you WILL wreck the car!
Old 11-20-2007, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by mooty
sorry, you are right 34-35.
at 45, you WILL wreck the car!
It's the cheap and easy way to eliminate any sensation of push.
Old 11-20-2007, 07:00 PM
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Philip in AL
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tcracing: http://www.dlbracing.com/

DEc 1st
Old 11-20-2007, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by ScottL
Hi Bob

Curious to know what effect the rear sway bar change has? As standard my RS came set to full stiff. The front bar came set in the middle (of the 5 settings).

What does moving the rear bar to the middle do to the handling balance?


Thanks,

Scott
Moving the bar to the middle means more body roll in back and more grip at the back. All else being equal it would mean more understeer or less oversteer. With the camber and toe I use the car would oversteer in fast corners with the rear bar full stiff.
Old 11-21-2007, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Bob Rouleau
Moving the bar to the middle means more body roll in back and more grip at the back. All else being equal it would mean more understeer or less oversteer. With the camber and toe I use the car would oversteer in fast corners with the rear bar full stiff.
Bob is right. My GT3 is not an RS, but moving the rear bar away from full stiff made all the difference in the world - the car is now using the full 12" of rubber on the rear and has dramatically changed from being tail-happy to being beautifully balanced.

I suggest that you also consider changing your brake pads to Pagid RS29's for the track. The difference is substantial. Good luck!
Old 11-21-2007, 02:05 PM
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Philip in AL
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Does the 997 GT3 RS use the same shims (for camber adj) that the 996 GT3 uses or do I need to order a different type?

Thanks



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