Never stored a car for the winter, so...
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Never stored a car for the winter, so...
I have a question for you guys who might have. I do not intend to drive the RS when the roads have salt and ice on them....thus, any basic tips for storing it would be appreciated.
#2
Race Director
Here's what I've done for years:
- EDIT - Oil & filter change (oops forgot that I do that)
- put in fuel stabilizer in partially filled tank at gas station
- fill tank to mix up stabilizer
- drive around for a bit to make sure stabilizer goes through fuel system
- wash, wax, condition leather if any
- hook up trickle charger
- cover
- EDIT - Oil & filter change (oops forgot that I do that)
- put in fuel stabilizer in partially filled tank at gas station
- fill tank to mix up stabilizer
- drive around for a bit to make sure stabilizer goes through fuel system
- wash, wax, condition leather if any
- hook up trickle charger
- cover
Last edited by Crazy Canuck; 10-28-2007 at 10:49 AM.
#3
Here's what I've done for years:
- put in fuel stabilizer in partially filled tank at gas station
- fill tank to mix up stabilizer
- drive around for a bit to make sure stabilizer goes through fuel system
- wash, wax, condition leather if any
- hook up trickle charger
- cover
- put in fuel stabilizer in partially filled tank at gas station
- fill tank to mix up stabilizer
- drive around for a bit to make sure stabilizer goes through fuel system
- wash, wax, condition leather if any
- hook up trickle charger
- cover
#4
Good thoughts from C. C., above. I'd add:
-Change oil & filter before storing.
-Raise tire pressure to max value permitted (probably ~45 PSI or so) to minimize flat-spotting.
-Tape shut engine air intake and exhaust outlets to minimize condensation and critter intrusion.
-Do NOT start car until it's time to put it back on the road (minimize condensation in oil)
-Reduce insurance to basic fire & theft (this will save you a bundle)
-Change oil & filter before storing.
-Raise tire pressure to max value permitted (probably ~45 PSI or so) to minimize flat-spotting.
-Tape shut engine air intake and exhaust outlets to minimize condensation and critter intrusion.
-Do NOT start car until it's time to put it back on the road (minimize condensation in oil)
-Reduce insurance to basic fire & theft (this will save you a bundle)
#5
Rennlist Member
I agree with most of the above except wouldn't taping the intake and exhaust seal in any condensation, I would think some airflow would be desireable.
Make sure the trickle (smart) charger also desulphates and top off the battery with distilled water.
Definetely do NOT start the car until you put in on the road, starting it every month or so is not good unless your actually going to drive it for a while.
Make sure the trickle (smart) charger also desulphates and top off the battery with distilled water.
Definetely do NOT start the car until you put in on the road, starting it every month or so is not good unless your actually going to drive it for a while.
#6
Rennlist Member
i hate to say it guys but...
you need to move to NC!!!!!!!!!! in dec we will have that 68 degree day!!!!!
but all abouve do sound logical i dont kow about the taping of air intake
you need to move to NC!!!!!!!!!! in dec we will have that 68 degree day!!!!!
but all abouve do sound logical i dont kow about the taping of air intake
#7
Rennlist Member
[QUOTE=930man;4721344]i hate to say it guys but...
you need to move to NC!!!!!!!!!! in dec we will have that 68 degree day!!!!!
Don't rub it in, it's hard enough.
The only good thing about it is that when you take it out for the first time in the spring it's like you just got a new car.
you need to move to NC!!!!!!!!!! in dec we will have that 68 degree day!!!!!
Don't rub it in, it's hard enough.
The only good thing about it is that when you take it out for the first time in the spring it's like you just got a new car.
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#10
you can get some special 'sorbo rubber' style pads to park the car on, to avoid flatspotting, except they are some exotic (read expensive) material.
We regularly keep cars stored in a bunker in deepest Bayern. Make sure they have other good quality cars to talk to, Have the stableman let them out once a month and open and close the doors, and anything else that has rubber seals regularly.
Turbos need to be run on a regular basis, particularly if they are the KKK29s, its very spectacular otherwise, but don't follow too close behind a car where the in series valves have got stuck shut, they come loose with a '*bang'.
R+C
We regularly keep cars stored in a bunker in deepest Bayern. Make sure they have other good quality cars to talk to, Have the stableman let them out once a month and open and close the doors, and anything else that has rubber seals regularly.
Turbos need to be run on a regular basis, particularly if they are the KKK29s, its very spectacular otherwise, but don't follow too close behind a car where the in series valves have got stuck shut, they come loose with a '*bang'.
R+C
#11
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
#12
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Thanks for the tips thus far...how about some dessicant material in the cabin to absorbe any humidity?? when my boat gets winterized, they put jugs of this stuff in the staterooms, engine room, salon, galley,washer/dryer room...etc...
#13
Rennlist Member
If your in a moist area add some moisture absorbing gel packs to the interior floor.