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Old 10-18-2007, 08:28 PM
  #31  
normank
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Originally Posted by Unitah
Is everyone going with the 997 GT3 RS flywheel and clutch package? Or mixing in motorsports parts from the Cup Car or RSR as well??

Jonathan
I'm just trying to get it done without any chance of voiding the warranty. It seems like replacing everything with RS parts would be the easiest and safest way.
Old 10-18-2007, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by sharkster
Hey Norman, I'll dig those parts out for you but all you want is for them to remove your transmission and replace your stock stuff with a Porsche 997 GT3RS Light Weight Flywheel Kit- including clutch disc, throw-out bearing, guide tube, flywheel bolts, throw-out bearing fork, ring gear, pressure plate and light weight flywheel. Aka engine stays in
Alex,
You are a fine upstanding young man. Very kind indeed.
Norman
Old 10-18-2007, 08:41 PM
  #33  
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Alex, do you think some dealers pull the engine because they don't know it can be left in place, or are they knowingly fleecing their customers? Is there a factory-specified "correct" way to do it?
Old 10-18-2007, 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by SpeedGeek
Alex, do you think some dealers pull the engine because they don't know it can be left in place, or are they knowingly fleecing their customers? Is there a factory-specified "correct" way to do it?
factory has a manual of sort stating how things should be done.
alex once changed my mirror cover and took 10 min. my dealer did the same operation but took 30 min ( i watched both alex and my dealer do it). the dealer tech told me that's how the manual instructed them to do it.

also, when they replace wheel bearings. my private mechanic takes 1/2 the time with totally different steps...

i dont know what the dealer will do in your case, but it seems that they follow the manual to the T.
Old 10-18-2007, 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by mooty
factory has a manual of sort stating how things should be done.
alex once changed my mirror cover and took 10 min. my dealer did the same operation but took 30 min ( i watched both alex and my dealer do it). the dealer tech told me that's how the manual instructed them to do it.

also, when they replace wheel bearings. my private mechanic takes 1/2 the time with totally different steps...

i dont know what the dealer will do in your case, but it seems that they follow the manual to the T.
John,
I thought you were on vacation it took you so long for you to jump in. I would be interested in hearing your opinion on doing this conversion, without worrying about the price for the moment.
Norman
Old 10-18-2007, 09:06 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by sharkster
norman... really there's is no need to remove the engine. Not sure why you're being told that?
Norm, there is no need to remove the engine when you are doing a clutch job or replacing the RMS. From my experience with 993s... some dealers will opt to remove the engine and trans to do a clutch job... If I remember this correctly the reason is so the can align the clutch release bearing properly???? I believe many indys will do a clutch job without removing the engine all they do is drop the tranny... in fact, many dealers replacing the RMS will only drop the tranny not both as a unit. It all comes down to experience.

Many on the 993 board have replaced their dual mass flywheel set up with RS fly wheel set up and love it.
Old 10-18-2007, 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by SpeedGeek
Alex, do you think some dealers pull the engine because they don't know it can be left in place, or are they knowingly fleecing their customers? Is there a factory-specified "correct" way to do it?
Hey SpeedGeek, well maybe I'm naive or maybe just think the best of people but I like to think that it's because they follow the shop manual to the T... I do know that some local dealers are "smarter" than that and it's one thing to "write" a manual and another thing to actually do/figure out the best way to do the work. I hope dealers aren't doing that to "fleece"...
Old 10-18-2007, 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by sharkster
Hey SpeedGeek, well maybe I'm naive or maybe just think the best of people but I like to think that it's because they follow the shop manual to the T... I do know that some local dealers are "smarter" than that and it's one thing to "write" a manual and another thing to actually do/figure out the best way to do the work. I hope dealers aren't doing that to "fleece"...
I think it really depends on the knowledge and experience of the service adviser you speak to... some go by the book others have more experience.
Old 10-18-2007, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by normank
John,
I thought you were on vacation it took you so long for you to jump in. I would be interested in hearing your opinion on doing this conversion, without worrying about the price for the moment.
Norman
well, i may be shot for this.
i dont drive the car much on street and when i do drive on street i am rarely 10mph over speed limit (the fees i paid my counsel to take care of way way way too many embarrassing tix makes the RS look somewhat cheap). as such i cannot feel the difference in LWFW.

on track, i can heel and toe either LWFW and again i personally dont feel the difference, but then again, you got to beat me over the head for me to feel anything. and over 75% of one lap of any track i am at, it's WOT, so again i dont feel the diff in LWFW.

in fact i didn't even hear the noises (i do have way above avg hearing as tested) when i pull the car away from dealer, and i thought that usa car didn't have LWFW since it's so much quieter than cup cars. it was only after i stalled the car at the first redlight and almost got rear ended (1 block away from dealer and risk of becoming the laughing stock of the RS world) did i pull the car to the side of the road, paid attention then heard the chatter.

above may sound strange and funny, but it is all true. i would not pay for LWFW if the car is fine, but if you had the god blessed leaking RMS, the dealer will warranty it and since it's all out, you might as well do it then.

however, there are many ppl who can and do feel the difference of LWFW, and if that's the case, i would presume it's worth the money for them.

yeah, i was on vacation from track. been working 18 hour days most of oct. well maybe 16 hours as i spend too much time on RL.
Old 10-18-2007, 09:42 PM
  #40  
normank
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Just when you think you know what to do, everything changes. I guess I will have to spend more time trying to sort this all out. Maybe just sit back and wait for the RMS leak. Let us pray.
Old 10-18-2007, 09:59 PM
  #41  
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find a GT3 with LWFW or an RS and drive it around to see how you like it.
dont just listen to my babble.
Old 10-18-2007, 11:16 PM
  #42  
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Hey Norman,

Still trying to sort this all out but since we are both in the same area I am ready to commit to this too, any chance that we can get "group" discount? I assume that you are dealing with the 3 dealers in S. Fl?
Old 10-19-2007, 10:17 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by DanP
Hey Norman,

Still trying to sort this all out but since we are both in the same area I am ready to commit to this too, any chance that we can get "group" discount? I assume that you are dealing with the 3 dealers in S. Fl?
Now that sounds like an outstanding idea. One of us can hold'em and the other beat them down. I'm going to send you a PM to protect the names of the innocent dealers (as if there are any innocent dealers).
Old 10-19-2007, 02:50 PM
  #44  
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We are getting closer. And now we have a buying group of 2 going for the project. The last question, I think, is: does the engine have to come out? Is there any advantage doing it that way? Is there a problem in just dropping the transmission?
Old 10-19-2007, 07:41 PM
  #45  
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the motor stays in. My dealer did the job for me on my 996 GT3. Dropped it off in the morning and picked it up the day during lunch.


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