Yes. 911 too...

 

sorry, forgot.
but let's make sure these 911 (generic term, not the S/T/E/SC/carerra specific) are split case engines. if you jack on the flat botton of 997 or 996... you are in deep s...t.

 

Is it possible to jack the 997 using one low profile jack in the middle of the car?

i.e., jack the rear end first in the middle to allow 2 jack stands at the rear. Then jack the front end from the back side to place 2 stands in the front?

I've seen all the other posts about jacking from the "rear side" first. BUT, just wanted to see if it was easier to do it from the "rear middle."

 

There was a discounted rate on jack point jack stands for rennlisters

Food for thought

No affiliation

 

The case is fine for lifting the rear of the car. All I would add for this method is one might have to use a second jack left under one of the rear jack points in order to get another jack under the engine to lift using the case.

The first time I put the car up high on stands I was unable to get my jack under the rear far enough with the front of the car already in the air.

One reason I like using this method is that by getting the car on the fronts first, then using the case as a lift point, you lift the car straight up for the final rear stands and do not twist or move the car in any odd direction once you are have half the car already on stands. It just makes me feel more secure.

 

Those Jack Point jack stands are really the way to go. However, they are spendy, big and heavy. Unless you're towing, they are not that track friendly (and just ask anyone who's ever paddocked next to me - I can stuff an amazing amount of **** into a car!).

I concur with Mooty regarding the method to lift the car. In my case, I took some old home-made wheel chocks (10" lengths of 2x4 screwed on top of one another to make a 4x4) to use as a spacer under the rear wheels. That way I've got enough clearance to get my lightweight aluminum race jack under the exhaust pipes (remember, the car is already on jack stands at the front two points, so the car is super low to the ground now at the engine) and far enough inboard to reach the spit case of the engine. Be sure to use a hockey puck or a small piece of plywood between the jack and the engine.

 

Hey guys, isn't it a little risky for the engine mounts (particularly DME cars) to be lifting from the engine case? I can understand the cup guys doing this but they have solid mounts, no??? You're potentially up for $1k per side if they crap themselves...

I lift as follows: jack from the rear points to put the front stands in as well as a 3" block under each rear wheel to make lifting the rear easy. I then slide one of those extra long AC jacks under the rear all the way to the rear cross member and lift from either the left or right (never centre of cross member), just under where the cross member attaches to chassis thus big solid chunk of aluminium all the way to the chassis. These carry the full weight of the car everyday, they can't be damaged. Two or three quick pumps of the jack, slide in the rear stands and presto... done...