WARNING FOR PCCB OWNERS !!!!
#16
Three Wheelin'
Originally Posted by GlennMc
Dan,
No idea where you got the torque ratings from then, as Porsche UK told me Germany will not give out that info, and this is why any PCCB replacment is a straight swap as even though you are only paying for the rotors, they take your old bells off you, and give you another complete set of disc/rotor that are pre-torqued from factory...
No idea where you got the torque ratings from then, as Porsche UK told me Germany will not give out that info, and this is why any PCCB replacment is a straight swap as even though you are only paying for the rotors, they take your old bells off you, and give you another complete set of disc/rotor that are pre-torqued from factory...
I suspect the way they sell the PCCB rotors is for commercial reasons rather than any particular wizardry. Certainly none evident when I dismantled my rears although it was time consuming and required a heat gun to help loosen them. In fact I was shocked they used cross head screws rather than allen bolts as theres a lot more risk of rounding the heads or slipping and scratching the disk. Bit amateur compared to the Alcon/Brembo fasteners. Anyway the fasteners were well and truely bent by the time I got to them and had no chance of undoing themselves!
What are they doing to ensure your rear disks are ok given that Porsche dealers don't seem to be authorised to consider ceramic disks as multiple components?
#17
Racer
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Originally Posted by DanH
What are they doing to ensure your rear disks are ok given that Porsche dealers don't seem to be authorised to consider ceramic disks as multiple components?
Don't quite understand what you mean here ??
They are not changing the rears, they have been checked, but if they do not know the torque ratings, then how can they i suppose...
I have i really weird logic to the reason they have come undone on the fronts though....
I think it may be because of the very loud noise of the RS 29's, which may cause some noise vibration to work them loose, i'm no scientist, but it's just a thought i had.... i don't think i'll share this with Porsche though....
#18
Three Wheelin'
Originally Posted by GlennMc
Don't quite understand what you mean here ??
They are not changing the rears, they have been checked, but if they do not know the torque ratings, then how can they i suppose...
I have i really weird logic to the reason they have come undone on the fronts though....
I think it may be because of the very loud noise of the RS 29's, which may cause some noise vibration to work them loose, i'm no scientist, but it's just a thought i had.... i don't think i'll share this with Porsche though....
They are not changing the rears, they have been checked, but if they do not know the torque ratings, then how can they i suppose...
I have i really weird logic to the reason they have come undone on the fronts though....
I think it may be because of the very loud noise of the RS 29's, which may cause some noise vibration to work them loose, i'm no scientist, but it's just a thought i had.... i don't think i'll share this with Porsche though....
Given how many run floating rotors with RS29s (and in the US quite a few 996 cermics with them), I think I'd favour the 'forgot to do them up tight enough or use threadlock hypothesis'. Thing is, what guarantee is there that they only screwed up two. In fact that seems rather unlikely. If there were forces in your brakes violent enough to work lose properly fastened bolts you'd definitely be feeling them under braking. Really don't think they can blame your non-OEM pads...
#19
Burning Brakes
Originally Posted by DanH
I don't have precise figures for the Porsche ones, they just came from Alcon via JZ Machtech for their own units. I was just extrapolating as I can't see them being wildly different? 20Nm is a good twist with an allen key but nothing major. Been thinking about it and I definitely used threadlock on mine.
In fact I was shocked they used cross head screws rather than allen bolts as theres a lot more risk of rounding the heads or slipping and scratching the disk. Bit amateur compared to the Alcon/Brembo fasteners. Anyway the fasteners were well and truely bent by the time I got to them and had no chance of undoing themselves!
In fact I was shocked they used cross head screws rather than allen bolts as theres a lot more risk of rounding the heads or slipping and scratching the disk. Bit amateur compared to the Alcon/Brembo fasteners. Anyway the fasteners were well and truely bent by the time I got to them and had no chance of undoing themselves!
I removed my front discs off their bells with a screwdriver (A good quality Snap On one admittedly) and a spanner on the hex section provided on its shank.
There was no trace of Loctite on the threads whatsoever.
I'm reliably informed the impression of Loctite is given by the fact that water is drawn into the ends of the steel bobbins that the screw fastens into, this causes the two components to corrode (sometimes badly), thus making their removal difficult.
#20
Three Wheelin'
Originally Posted by Atgani
Dan, I'd suggest the reason the PCCB setup uses crosshead screws is to stop people applying vast amounts of torque to the fasteners and damaging either the disc itself or overtorquing the fastener beyond it's tensile limits.
I removed my front discs off their bells with a screwdriver (A good quality Snap On one admittedly) and a spanner on the hex section provided on its shank.
There was no trace of Loctite on the threads whatsoever.
I'm reliably informed the impression of Loctite is given by the fact that water is drawn into the ends of the steel bobbins that the screw fastens into, this causes the two components to corrode (sometimes badly), thus making their removal difficult.
I removed my front discs off their bells with a screwdriver (A good quality Snap On one admittedly) and a spanner on the hex section provided on its shank.
There was no trace of Loctite on the threads whatsoever.
I'm reliably informed the impression of Loctite is given by the fact that water is drawn into the ends of the steel bobbins that the screw fastens into, this causes the two components to corrode (sometimes badly), thus making their removal difficult.
Whilst I can see why you might think the crosshead is good for tightening, its not for undoing!