Stiffer rear anti-roll bar for RS
#1
Racer
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Stiffer rear anti-roll bar for RS
Does anyone know of a stiffer rear anti-roll bar for the RS and if not, what is involved in installing 997 Cup rear blade type bar.
#2
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Originally Posted by Racerron
Does anyone know of a stiffer rear anti-roll bar for the RS and if not, what is involved in installing 997 Cup rear blade type bar.
Do not add bar, add the right front/rear springs and balance it with the stock bars.
#3
The Cup bar isn't that expensive. The RSR bar is expensive (and completely different.)
I think it was still something like $3K just for the bar for the Cup. I forget, but I know it was enough to completely drop the idea.
And agreed, the solution is the right springs and dampers, the roll stiffness will be fine (and the car already "skates" so it doesn't need more bar.)
There's a thread by grussell where he has a nice setup using street JRZs and Hooter slicks with only 400/600 springs, which can't be much more than factory, but by his account, work well even with the extra stick of the slicks.)
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...&highlight=JRZ
I think it was still something like $3K just for the bar for the Cup. I forget, but I know it was enough to completely drop the idea.
And agreed, the solution is the right springs and dampers, the roll stiffness will be fine (and the car already "skates" so it doesn't need more bar.)
There's a thread by grussell where he has a nice setup using street JRZs and Hooter slicks with only 400/600 springs, which can't be much more than factory, but by his account, work well even with the extra stick of the slicks.)
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...&highlight=JRZ
#4
400/600 springs did not work well enough for us. Too soft and we could not dial out the oversteer.
We are putting in 900/900 springs and 997 Cup Blade anti-sway bars right now. Testing will be done next week and I will report back.
We are putting in 900/900 springs and 997 Cup Blade anti-sway bars right now. Testing will be done next week and I will report back.
#6
Originally Posted by Carrera GT
900lb in the front? That should be entertaining.
: )
: )
Last edited by grussell; 06-19-2007 at 01:49 PM.
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#11
doesn't sound right to have equal rates front and back. you have all that weight and the wing in back so logically you need more spring in back. assume you played with camber and toe already?
#12
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Originally Posted by scss98
doesn't sound right to have equal rates front and back. you have all that weight and the wing in back so logically you need more spring in back. assume you played with camber and toe already?
Grussell, what kind of static toe are you running at the rear? That might be the problem. Did you change the ride height?
#13
Originally Posted by scss98
doesn't sound right to have equal rates front and back. you have all that weight and the wing in back so logically you need more spring in back. assume you played with camber and toe already?
#14
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I currently run 450/650 on my 996. Moton CS at 2 clicks on bump and 3 on rebound. Happy car on the streets, more settle than stock.
I ran a set of 750/1000 2 years ago, and it was not that nice. Quite stiff ride, and slower lap times at my local tracks.
I ran a set of 750/1000 2 years ago, and it was not that nice. Quite stiff ride, and slower lap times at my local tracks.
#15
Originally Posted by Carrera GT
Keep in mind the car's front-rear balance is a lot better than a street car (the race car design allows them to move everything forward and in some cases, there's ballast to make up minimum car weights) and the race cars can run a larger fuel load and more rubber, so the combined effect is a lot more work for the front end. Still, 900 is getting up there for the rears, let alone the front -- the car just won't enjoy the street once it's running those kinds of spring weights.
With a starting point of 900/900 we can test the car and adjust the front rates accordingly to balance the car.