str8ner

My mechanic recomends that I change my toe links for the cup cars one. Would this be a significant improvement?

NJ-GT

Yes. The stock toe link has rubber bushings at both ends. Under load, the 996/997 are sensitive to toe changes. Rubber moves in all directions, so you get undesired toe changes.

Expert drivers could say "No, you don't need that", but these same drivers can run fast laps with a flat tire, with a wrong alignment, with a Kia or Yugo, or driving in reverse.

Porsche keeps using the cheap eccentric bolts over a light alloy soft subframe, dumb move. This applies to the 996/986/987/997. The cars with the stiffer suspensions are more sensitive.

I did notice a good improvement when I installed mine. I used to spin this car at every autocross, and quite a few times at the track. Last year, when I installed these links, I spun twice, that's it. One autocross in heavy rain, and the first track lap on cold tires leading the running group, both of them were my fault, rather than a consequence of the car snapping oversteer.

Unitah

Can you please describe the seat of the pants feel of the car with the new toe-links? How different was it? What are the part numbers for the 997 GT3? Did you also replace any of the other bearings with solid, or just replaced the toe links?

Thanks!

Carrera GT

This is consistent with my experience across several cars and drivers with different objectives. The most common objective is reduce the feeling of the 996 being too "lively" in the rear on rough roads. The 996 really benefits (and has the same design. I haven't done an A:B comparison, but it's certainly on my list of "boring, blingless and worth every penny." And that said, I'm not sure the Cup car pieces are the cheapest or best. I have TRG, but that is because I know them. You might look at Jerry Woods / SRP for a start.

Count yourself lucky you have a tech who knows his/her stuff to even offer the information.

NJ-GT

I made incremental changes. First, I did the upper monoball arms, then the GT3 Cup toe links, then the RS two piece arms plus the monoball control arm bearings and solid bushings.

The toe links improvement is very noticeable.

My fastest lap at the Pocono North Course with the light car and the Moton suspension was on the low 59 secs. I dropped that time to 56 secs, and the only mechanical changes were on those links plus the monoball pieces and tuning. Stock 996 GT3 with race rubber can run 61 with good drivers.

The effect on the toe links is that you can apply deeper gas out of turns without losing the rear end. The car feels easier to drive at the limits.

These are the Porsche MotorSports toe links I installed. They're still used in the new 997 RSR, so they can't be bad. Monoball at both ends, with 5mm spacer rings to dial out bump steer.

Carrera GT

Doesn't Rennlist frown upon pornography?

Naked limbs.

Mattress.

Not even a sheet.

Dirty stuff.

Unitah

So, are those the correct ones for the 997 GT3 as well, or would I need to research different part numbers?

It sounds like you did exactly what I want to do. I would like to get rid of all the rubber in the entire suspension, and replace everything with solid. What do you think?

mitch236

Be careful. The reason the rubber is there is for durability as well as softening up the suspension a bit (and keeping it quiet). If you go with an all solid suspension, you probably will have a higher failure rate. With racers, it is worth it because the car will (with a competent driver) be faster and long term durability, forgiveness and quietness is not a concern. If you are an average driver, spend the money somewhere else, like coaching.

mooty

i agree with mitch.

on my 996gt3, i stayed with oem toe arm and the cheap eccentric.
perhaps i am way too slow??? my rear alignment has NEVER been off in the 6k track miles i put on it. as a habit, i ride the berms, even if they are very high and bumpy. the alignment is chk'd every month, it's never off.

i think chris cervelli posted a long post about how and the order of which nut/bolt to tighten first to avoid the prob. i can't find the post now.

but if you dont mind the noise and replacing things more regularly, the solid joints are great. my car eventually became a rattle bucket ;-)

Unitah

I understand what you guys are saying. I don't mind the noise. I won't hear the suspension at all with the straight pipes anyway, hahaha.

As far as higher failure rate, you are probably correct in this matter; but I don't see it being that much higher (I may be wrong though).

In terms of comfort, I don't care about that at all.

stules

Hi
Couple of questions if I may......
Are they cheaper or more expensive to use the OEM toe links or TRG etc?

Do you also replace the camber link as well at the same time?

Regards Stuart

fapena

NJ-GT,

I have a 997 GT3 and like everybody else I am trying to stiffen things up in the rear when pushed to the limit. Do you know by any chance where could I find find those toe links? You mentioned Porsche Motorsports, does it mean through any Porsche dealer? Does TRG have a similar set too?

Thanks

grussell

They look nice installed too....

Unitah

I would highly recommend the Tarett Toe Links. I just received them a few days ago and installed them on the car. I think the design is actually better then the Cup Car ones, and the quality is certainly just as good. The design is different in that they are adjustable "on the car" since on end has a left hand thread and the other a right hand thread. Therefore, once the lock nuts are loosened, you can rotate the center joint and crank in (shorten) or crank out (lengthen) the links without having to disconnect the one end. I like them.

I will be testing them out at The Glen this coming week, so, I'll let you know...

Carrera GT

This (matching left- and right-hand threaded rod ends) should be true for any link. I'd be surprised if the Cup parts have to be removed (at one end) to be adjusted, but I did hear that ERP used to use only right-hand threads and only relatively recently came to the revelation of the genius of the left-hand thread. : )

I've not seen the Tarret Engineering http://www.tarett.com/ pieces in person, but the photos look like they're the same as the TRG piece (although I think TRG has dispensed with the ball-joint in their latest design.)