porkernut

The engine warranty wouldn't be void if you hit the rev limiter prior to 2k miles, but it is logged & can be read by a Porsche technician.

It is all about being sensible, don't believe those that post they don't need any running in, the engines are bench tested but not bench run in.

The transmission/engine/gearbox/clutch/brakes all need to mesh together & revving the nuts off the car from the off just doesn't make sense.

I kept it below 4k revs for the first 400 miles, but varied the revs & used full mid-range throttle. Then added 1k revs every 100 miles so that by 800 miles I was at 8000rpm. Not all the time, just sensibly to ensure the car beds in ok. I haven't tracked the car yet but at 1000 miles am using its full potential on road, I'll wait at least another 500 miles before I track her, but others have done this earlier without side effects!!!

The biggest problem running in the Gt3 as appose to the other 997's is it cry's out to be revved, so you need strong will power!!!

cobrien

And that I do NOT have....I've only got about 150 miles on my GT3, but it definitely wants to GO. I'm trying to behave myself, but it isn't easy.... .

The opinions on break in from dealers even differ...some say 2000 miles, others 1000, others say drive it like you stole it.

Philip in AL

Class 1 over rev is not shifting fast enough (IE: holding a gear too long), and can be wiped from the ecu memory. Class 2 (which is said to be way worse) is down shifting into too low a gear and causing the over rev. It can not be erased from the ecu. At least I think I remember this all correctly! I also agree that the reason for the break-in period has little to do with the engine, and everything to do with the "transmission/engine/gearbox/clutch/brakes all need to mesh together" and not have the crap torqued out of them all at once.

mitch236

Let me clarify again what I stated. Porsche MAY void your ENGINE warrantee if you hit the rev limiter during the stated breakin period. I never stated that the entire warrantee would be voided. Over-revs are grounds for possible voiding of the engine's warrantee. Erasing either from the ECU is possible but extremely difficult from what I was told. But there may be a way for Porsche to figure out that the ECU was modified.

Most warrantee claims can be pushed through and having a good relationship with your dealer can go a long way. Also being honest with yourself is a good thing. If you track the car, don't expect the dealer to warrantee any wear items.


But back to the break in period, I don't think you will ever get an answer. As far as the engine is concerned, I just wouldn't hit the rev limiter. As far as the driveline, I agree that you need to be gentle. I don't think the torque from acceleration is the issue. It is probably much more damaging to make bad shifts and cause lurching of the car.

1999Porsche911

So, based on your assumption, each and every time you replace the brake or clutch, you have to go throught the engine breakin again?

Breakin as described by Porsche is laughable and does nothing but encourage oil burning, engine wear and poor performance.

Philip in AL

No, that's not what I meant. Maybe I should have read the quote that I cut and pasted a little better. I would have pulled the words: engine, brakes and clutch out and more specifically said drivetrain. But I'm not an expert. It just seems to me that the engine would need the least break-in, especially not a couple of thousand miles, or whatever Porsche is recommending these days.

Mike Murphy

I would take a 500 mile trip one weekend before the event and split the difference

dan360

FWIW I did some internet digging on this over the last couple of cars I've broken in. There are plenty of opinions and fear stories, many of which are already in this thread. My personal approach is (all while observing the warm it up to operating temp before getting on it seriously):

1 First 1-200 miles, gentle driving, bed in the brakes properly - somewhat difficult with CCMs - but an important thing for Steel.
2 Check for leaks, check oil and coolant levels.
3 Build up over next couple of hundred miles, change at increasing RPM in 500 rpm increments. Start to add torque (2500 rpm in 6th rather than 3K for example).
4 Once you hit 600 miles or so drive it as you normally would. Use full revs, drive hard once warmed, but restrict to road use.
5 Change oils at 1K. Re check and hit the track.

On my CS I dynoed it at 500 miles and had 301 rwhp, I dynoed it on the same machine at 11K miles and had 323 rwhp.

IMO Bedding in is what run in is about, increase use gradually to your intended normal use. Do not baby it for 1000 miles and then go nuts.

Mike Murphy

Seems the most logical. It's kind of like waking up in the morning out of bed, stretching your legs, then do some jogging, then do your sprints.

BTW, if people really drove their cars like they "stole it," then would end up with a damaged car at the end of the day. Most thieves who steal cars trash them in many ways, not just the engine.

jbeanstalk

Another supporter of the "don't baby it" camp:

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

This is a guy who builds high performance street bike motors. Read the interesting analysis about seating the rings. Mind you, our brief "20 minute window" that he discusses is already used up by the time most of us take delivery on our cars, but the logic is still interesting.... Just another $ 0.014 (that's $0.02 after taxes.)

Mike Murphy

It is interesting that this break-in article is focused on ring sealing, and not much else. This is the same focus on the Chevy smallblock break-in procedure. The focus is to get the rings to seal.

AndrewSS

Thanks for all the feed back guys, I appreciate it !

mooty

i read mitch's post many times. i think he is RIGHT.
if you OVER rev, you have no warranty.
however, on a upshift you CANNOT OVER rev. hitting the limiter is NOT over rev. the computer stops you from OVER rev. that's what the limiter is for. i mean what is the point of having a limiter if it cuts in AFTER you OVER rev'd?????

you can only over rev on a downshift, or missed shift. well, then i dont care if you got 2 miles or 2 million miles on your car, PAG would not and should not warranty it.

i think it's just word smithing in this case.

that said, i dont purposed bounce off limiters, but i dont stay below 4-5k rpm all day either. i find it very hard to drive any car if i have to shift at 4-5k rpm in first and second gear. but that's just me.

icon

what if the missed shift is due to a mechanical problem w/ the shift linkage?
warranty coverage is determined by the case.
you can't make blanket statements about porsche voiding the warranty.

unless of course you track the vehicle as you and mitch do . . . in that case you don't have a warranty to void!

mooty

when i say missed shifts are not covered, i mean YOU missed the shift.
if there's mechanical failure (though probably hard to proof and you have to dicker around with your dealer), then clearly it should be warrantied.

in tracking, i still feel some stuff should be warrantied. for example, (simplified grossly for this discussion), let say i do nothing out of the ordinary other than shifting EVERY gear 100 rpm below fuel cut off. so there is NO question i over rev (by any definition, and let's just concentrate on upshifts, assuming all my down shift are perfectly matched and no mechanical prob etc) and NO question i drove the **** out of the car. it SHOULD BE warrantied. no where did it say i cannot drive the **** out of my car. i may break traffic laws, thrown in jail blah blah.... but in this simple example, this type of track or street driving (the rpm issue) should be covered imo.

now whether i actually get the coverage is another story.