fapena

The attached picture is from a previous post in this forum many months ago. Does anybody know where to get those hooks?

Thanks in advance.

Carrera GT

http://www.autometricsmotorsports.co...ucts/index.htm

fapena

Autometrics??? I am sorry but that doesn't mean much to me. Is it ".com" (already tried and it doesn't look like) or a Porsche dealer or something else?

Thanks

doc2s

http://www.autometricsmotorsports.com/

fapena

I got it. Thanks again

rocket930

hi
are you putting them on a 997 or 996 ?
i have been straping down my car with straps thru the wheels

NJ-GT

Just a piece of advice. On a lowered car, forget about driving on the street, the front hooks will scrap everywhere. I've a pair of "U" shape hooks from Autometrics if you want them.

jim911

I havn't had a problem with them hitting except on a few rumble strips at the track. they protect your brake cool ducts from hitting.

fapena

I am/was planning to install them on a 997. I e-mailed autometrics to see if they would work and I haven't heard back yet.

NJ-GT, I am planning to drive my GT3 on the street, and to make sure I understand you correctly, you mean the front hooks will touch ground routinely. I thought they were mounted fairly high at least 6-7 inches from the ground and towards the center of rotation of the wheel, which it would make it even more difficult to scratch, but apparently not.

I am still deciding on how to tow the car if "pulling" on the wheels with a lot of care and love or to grab the chassis down and disable the suspension during the ride. I know there is no hard science either way.

I am leaning towards forgetting the hooks and tying the car down by the wheels, which seems to be the most common way people do it.

Thanks for the hint.

mitch236

I can tell you about the hooks. There is nowhere to mount them for the front. The rears will work perfectly. The trick to preventing them from hitting is to pre-bend them ONCE only. The rears will never hit though. It's only the fronts that cause problems and since they won't work for the 997 GT-3, that's not a problem.

Another option for the front is to get a "claw" type strap from Home Depot and use the front jacking point to stick the claw into. For the rears, use the Autometrics. This will work very well.

Remember, every possible tie down method has its plusses and minuses. You can decide for yourself what you are comfortable with. I personally don't like the wheels since they rotate during towing and that allows the straps to have some slack. You don't want slack on the straps since that allows the car to develop momentum before the strap stops it. That's alot of force. I would rather attach the straps to the frame so no momentum can develop.

fapena

Your thinking process makes a lot of sense. I'll follow your advise. I'll let you know.

Thanks again.

Carrera GT

You mean like a U-bend made with bent rods on a ratchet strap? Can you describe, please? (I was assuming the Autometrics would have somewhere to go up front. I can see they work on the rear sub-frame as usual. Thanks -- this would have burned me.

mitch236

I tried to get a picture but this link will have to do.

Click here

Carrera GT

Cool. Many thanks. That's what I thought you were describing.

TonyN

I have these Autometrics hooks on my 996gt3 and use them to tie the car down in my enclosed trailer. The front's will bottom out unless they are bent to about 45 degrees 1st. Also the passenger side bolt loosens up if not tightened regularly (depending on which way the strap and trailer tie down ring is oriented). My trailer tie down ring causes the strap to pull a little to the outside of the car. One loose A arm suspension bolt can of course be catastrophic on the track, so you have to check that side regularly. This is because of the right hand thread. The driver's side does not loosen because the RH thread tightens it.

In spite of these issues, these Autometrics hooks seem like the best choice for convenience. The rear hooks do not bottom out but the passenger side causes the tie down strap hook to get close if not touch the main oil line from the engine. I don't want the hook touching it in any way, so I've added a 10K lb carabiner or you can use one of those screw-closed rings. The carabiner is easier to remove when removing the strap. I heard that CDOC has similar tie down points to the Autometrics but they are already pre-bent to 45 degrees.

On another topic about loose bolts: the sway bar nuts. They tend to loossen up and fall of if not checked before every track day. I've purchased a couple of extras for this reason.