Need help finding hooks for towing.
02-21-2007, 02:04 AM
#16
Originally Posted by TonyN
I have these Autometrics hooks on my 996gt3 and use them to tie the car down in my enclosed trailer. The front's will bottom out unless they are bent to about 45 degrees 1st. Also the passenger side bolt loosens up if not tightened regularly (depending on which way the strap and trailer tie down ring is oriented). My trailer tie down ring causes the strap to pull a little to the outside of the car. One loose A arm suspension bolt can of course be catastrophic on the track, so you have to check that side regularly. This is because of the right hand thread. The driver's side does not loosen because the RH thread tightens it.
In spite of these issues, these Autometrics hooks seem like the best choice for convenience. The rear hooks do not bottom out but the passenger side causes the tie down strap hook to get close if not touch the main oil line from the engine. I don't want the hook touching it in any way, so I've added a 10K lb carabiner or you can use one of those screw-closed rings. The carabiner is easier to remove when removing the strap. I heard that CDOC has similar tie down points to the Autometrics but they are already pre-bent to 45 degrees.
On another topic about loose bolts: the sway bar nuts. They tend to loossen up and fall of if not checked before every track day. I've purchased a couple of extras for this reason.
In spite of these issues, these Autometrics hooks seem like the best choice for convenience. The rear hooks do not bottom out but the passenger side causes the tie down strap hook to get close if not touch the main oil line from the engine. I don't want the hook touching it in any way, so I've added a 10K lb carabiner or you can use one of those screw-closed rings. The carabiner is easier to remove when removing the strap. I heard that CDOC has similar tie down points to the Autometrics but they are already pre-bent to 45 degrees.
On another topic about loose bolts: the sway bar nuts. They tend to loossen up and fall of if not checked before every track day. I've purchased a couple of extras for this reason.
If the bolt is loosening, make sure it has a through coating of Loctite blue.
If you put the right twist and alignment in the rear straps it pulls away from the oil pipe.
As for loosening bar nuts, I've not had this problem, but I've seen several other posts -- including some people. I suggest a couple of new factory nuts and avoid torque beyond spec. It seems that over-tightening distorts the nut and prevents the pinch from working.
02-26-2007, 04:24 PM
#17
Originally Posted by mitch236
I can tell you about the hooks. There is nowhere to mount them for the front. The rears will work perfectly. The trick to preventing them from hitting is to pre-bend them ONCE only. The rears will never hit though. It's only the fronts that cause problems and since they won't work for the 997 GT-3, that's not a problem.
Another option for the front is to get a "claw" type strap from Home Depot and use the front jacking point to stick the claw into. For the rears, use the Autometrics. This will work very well.
Remember, every possible tie down method has its plusses and minuses. You can decide for yourself what you are comfortable with. I personally don't like the wheels since they rotate during towing and that allows the straps to have some slack. You don't want slack on the straps since that allows the car to develop momentum before the strap stops it. That's alot of force. I would rather attach the straps to the frame so no momentum can develop.
Another option for the front is to get a "claw" type strap from Home Depot and use the front jacking point to stick the claw into. For the rears, use the Autometrics. This will work very well.
Remember, every possible tie down method has its plusses and minuses. You can decide for yourself what you are comfortable with. I personally don't like the wheels since they rotate during towing and that allows the straps to have some slack. You don't want slack on the straps since that allows the car to develop momentum before the strap stops it. That's alot of force. I would rather attach the straps to the frame so no momentum can develop.
I used this approach over the weekend and it works -- here's some additional information.
The Autometrics tie-down brackets really don't work on the rear because of the proximity of the sway bar. A work-around is to use to chain "quick links" (pictured below) and this creates enough space for a conventional locking hook.
Using a locking hook where possible prevents the hook coming off if there is any any slack or movement in the car or the straps.
The second thing to note is the front tie-down idea works (using the "claw" ratchet strap ... there's pic of that strap in my earlier post to this thread) but it should be hooked onto the back of the jacking point (not the hole in the middle of it) so that the hook has the full depth available and the plastic underbody tray works well to keep the hook from moving about when the strap is slack.
ps. Don't over tighten the straps. Big ratchets can exert a half ton or more of line load, far in excess of what the car needs and more than enough to distort metal or over-stress the tie-down points. I advise one click past "snug" then drive a mile and re-tension to the same degree. If the straps didn't come slack in the first mile, good, otherwise repeat after another mile and so on until the car is staying put.
Also, don't leave the car in gear -- the constant movement of the car is not good for the gearbox or the engine and neighter is designed to work without lubrication -- but do apply the handbrake.
