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I remember seeing a post about rebuilding the calipers but I can never find what I need, when I need it. I am reverting back to my PCCBs for the street and somehow chipped a piston in the right rear caliper trying to get them opened up. This caliber for sure needs rebuilt and it might be the best time to rebuild them all. I may also rebuild this one now and do the others as a winter project. I'm assuming this would be less expensive then buying rebuilt calipers (if that's even an option). Who sells a rebuild kit and is there a video on the procedure somewhere? Thanks in advance, Dave
I replaced the rear calipers on my car due to a small amount of fluid near the bleeder, at the time it was around $500/each, I then sold my existing set and offset a decent amount of that expense. I think fronts are around $1k/each.
I’ve got a few pistons laying around… not sure if I have the right size… I think the rears are all the same size though. I think my pucks are fine also… they were rebuilt about 8k miles ago before I rebuilt them again for cosmetics.
I’ve been reading up on this topic too! Great timing. I’ve had my calipers inspected but haven’t gotten into the weeds looking at the dust shields and pistons and ceramic pucks etc. I have PCCB calipers but a previous owner converted rotors to Girodisc steels and I never got the original PCCB unfortunately.
I want to refinish the calipers and get the service/rebuild done at the same time. I’ll be putting them back on the current steel kit (I estimate about 2 seasons left) and will probably upgrade to ST CCM rotors next year.
I replaced the rear calipers on my car due to a small amount of fluid near the bleeder, at the time it was around $500/each, I then sold my existing set and offset a decent amount of that expense. I think fronts are around $1k/each.
awesome summary! Read those threads and more! Appreciate the link to PMB Performance. Looks like that’s the gold standard! Might wait until I convert back to carbon ceramic to do this service. That way it’ll stay prettier with the reduced brake dust!
Calipers arnt super hard to decide on...I have a hybrid setup on my GT3(see below)
Number one thing to take into account with your pistons is 1) are the scored or need replaced, if the answer is no then just re-use them
If you decide you do want to replace them there are three options really... good, better, best.
Good - OEM
Pro: its oem so you dont have to argue about it being the best, they are super light
Con: you need to buy special puck holders to re-attach pucks so they dont float, cost is high for each piston, aluminum pucks high heat transfer solved by the puck, pucks are not sold independent of the piston kit so it can be hard to source just one piece without replacing it all, pucks break
Better - Racingdisk
pro: there is no puck to deal with, 303 steel so heat transfer is lower than aluminum and they cut the piston face for less surface contact
con: They arnt oem, I have no idea technically how much heat transfer there is vs OEM so I also bought Girodisk Titanium Break Pad Shields just to cover myself
Best: Titanium
Pro:they eliminate the need for all of the above
Con: cost
As far as what material to buy for the dust sleeves... dont waste your $$ with high temp unless your tracking it, if you are then by all means
Calipers arnt super hard to decide on...I have a hybrid setup on my GT3(see below)
Number one thing to take into account with your pistons is 1) are the scored or need replaced, if the answer is no then just re-use them
If you decide you do want to replace them there are three options really... good, better, best.
Good - OEM
Pro: its oem so you dont have to argue about it being the best, they are super light
Con: you need to buy special puck holders to re-attach pucks so they dont float, cost is high for each piston, aluminum pucks high heat transfer solved by the puck, pucks are not sold independent of the piston kit so it can be hard to source just one piece without replacing it all, pucks break
Better - Racingdisk
pro: there is no puck to deal with, 303 steel so heat transfer is lower than aluminum and they cut the piston face for less surface contact
con: They arnt oem, I have no idea technically how much heat transfer there is vs OEM so I also bought Girodisk Titanium Break Pad Shields just to cover myself
Best: Titanium
Pro:they eliminate the need for all of the above
Con: cost
As far as what material to buy for the dust sleeves... dont waste your $$ with high temp unless your tracking it, if you are then by all means
Well now! North End Pizza on me one of the weekends this winter if I can lean on you for some expertise rebuilding the calipers. It was on my shortlist for winter projects this year after a brief scare on my way to miller last month.
If you have any cosmetic issues with the calipers, you’re likely better off to send them out to PMB and have them fully restored. I had them do a couple sets of calipers for me last summer. They do incredible work. Plan accordingly though, your car will be on jack stands for weeks.
If you have any cosmetic issues with the calipers, you’re likely better off to send them out to PMB and have them fully restored. I had them do a couple sets of calipers for me last summer. They do incredible work. Plan accordingly though, your car will be on jack stands for weeks.
Looks great....I am waiting on the rebuild kit for my rears (sold in pairs) $400ish and taking 10 days to receive them. Ballpark costs for refurbishing?
If you have any cosmetic issues with the calipers, you’re likely better off to send them out to PMB and have them fully restored. I had them do a couple sets of calipers for me last summer. They do incredible work. Plan accordingly though, your car will be on jack stands for weeks.
Looks great....I am waiting on the rebuild kit for my rears (sold in pairs) $400ish and taking 10 days to receive them. Ballpark costs for refurbishing?
What does the rebuild kit contain out of curiosity?
06-02-2024, 01:39 PM
Caliper rebuild
