Sdgg993

FCP euro posts some excellent DIY videos on a 997.1 Carrera.

how similar is this job on a .1 GT3? Mine need replacing and I haven’t found a DIY as detailed as these videos.

rears
https://youtu.be/gO7lkNanTdI

fronts
https://youtu.be/e4KiwapIcCc

jreifler

Those are great tutorials. Basically the same. As noted, ratcheting wrenches are key. Almost impossible to reach the inner dogbone subframe connects without them.

Sdgg993

I have a quick jack lift that allows me to get the car up pretty high. I did the control arms on my 87 a few years and they aren't the most fun. How many hours do you think ill have into this job and how bad is it? I am thinking two solid weekend afternoons and I should have it done but you know.. it always takes longer then it takes.

jreifler

I did it with QuickJacks as well. 2 days is plenty, but obviously take your time. Always goes 2x faster after you've fumbled with the first corner. The tight tolerances and wrestling with the wheel carriers makes this not-so-fun, but it's not technically difficult. Should be much easier than your '87 job.

noro

HIGHLY recommend this set, I found the universal silver looking ones are garbage, either their size fits one ball joint but not the other, or the height works for one place and not the other or the quality of the metal isn't there.


This kit has all the right sizes, and best of all vertically adjustable.

Sdgg993

Thanks everyone!

Does anyone have opinions on the Tarett vs Rennline control arms with stock rubber?

rennline are significantly cheaper at $800 vs $1500(rennline) and I want to keep as close to stock ride quality as possible.

jreifler

If you're angling for stock drivability, is there any specific reason you're looking at aftermarket? You should get plenty of mileage out of a stock refresh. Unless you're also looking for greater rear toe adjustability for track duty or some other stiffness / handling improvements, not sure it makes sense to spend more on aftermarket.

noro

I just got a set of elephant racing ones, it won me over with 2 significant advantages (3 actually).

1. The outer joint is protected by a rubber boot from the elements. My RSS ball joints have clearly been affected by dhebree and rusting that affects exposed ball joints.
2. The ball jointer is replaceable, this should tbe last set of control arms you will buy, because you can get the ball joint service kit for 160 and be done with it.
3. The puck/bushing in the middle (I know you are going for stock rubber so it is not relevant), has easy adjustment mechanism to spin it during alignment. RSS does not.

I know there is a post here going around about the ER pin on the ball joint breaking but I am not going to get excited over 1-2 cases.

Sdgg993

I was actually looking at that since I have several of there suspension parts on my 87 Targa and I think they make great products AND when you call them most time I am talking to the owner which is cool.

it looks like they have a rubber bushing setup. I’m going to give them a call in the morning and price that option out. Do you remember what you paid for the control arm setup?

noro

I only got two outer ones with their puck/hard bushing setup for 950/pair shipped. Going to match up with my RSS inner control arms since those are still as stiff as on day 1.

jreifler

I have Elephant parts on my 964 and it's top notch stuff. RSS on my GT3. Elephant does have a "street" rubber bushing version for its control arms, but it will still be stiffer than OE. If you can tolerate the additional NVH, it will transform the handling of your car.

noro

There is another trick of you want a rubber bushing but make it max stiffness possible, if you have a press you can knock the bushing out and turn and re-insert it 90 degreed. This makes the solid part of the rubber be in the direction of flex as opposed to the collapsable gap.

noro

I love the look and feel of the RSS CAs, but for the life of me I do not understand why they could not incorporate a rubber boot into their design. Race junkies could have easily removed the boot for constant visual with the ball joint to catch any issues. They clearly know it is an issue because they sell rubber boots for the toe link and dog bone pieces but not for CAs. Mine definitely failed due to weathering (combined with good times of course).