balucipher

Antigravity batteries have the battery management built right into them so the car doesn't need to do anything different to charge it. The BMS handles everything. It's as close to plug and play as you can get.

Antigravity

Hey Matt, good luck with your Giveaway Car, it looks awesome!

I wanted to clarify a couple things regarding our Lithium Battery. I saw you were asking some questions about putting it in this Car, and didn't seem to understand if the battery would work in this Car, so I wanted to give you in input.

- The Antigravity Battery will work perfectly fine in the Car. The Lithium Batteries can swap into the Cars without any issues. Its a drop in replacement Battery.

- Yes the T6 Size is exactly the same as the H6 Battery but simply has a SHORTER HEIGHT than the H6 but is the exact same internals, there will not be any issues for installation, being shorter will not harm anything. Things to note are..... IF you swap out any battery on the Modern Porsches you might (and in some cases, might not) get flags. This is simply due to the fact that during the change out of the battery the Car will know it has gone to ZERO volts, so upon the first start-8up and drive you might get some low-voltage flags or other flags that will go away after a drive as the car learns it has a battery in it again and the voltages are correct.

- Next you need to make sure that battery is in a good state of charge, you said it been sitting for a while.... I don't know if that means 6 months, a year, or longer. So you need to check if the battery still has a charge on it. So test it with a multimeter to see the state of charge, and check the voltage. If you've had that battery for a year and not recharged, or maintained it, it could be dead. Lithium, can hold a charge much longer than lead acid, but it will still over-discharge if left sitting for close to a year. If I remember correctly you put an Antigravity Battery in one of your other Cars about 2 years ago... so if the battery has been sitting that long then it could be completely dead from lack of any maintenance and locked out. So be sure to check it out.

- I see you wrote that you removed the "goofy stickers" , and while they might be goofy looking to you (which I completely understand) they actually would BENEFIT your Giveaway since the person entering the Giveaway will see you are using a top-brand Lithium Battery in your Car. I'm not trying to be snarky at all, but I'm saying the stickers do serve a function, they notify the future owner of this Giveway Car, or anyone working on the Car of the actual Brand of Battery they have in ther Car. They inform the new Giveaway Winner, or Mechanic who might be working on the CAr that the battery is a LITHIUM-ION Battery, which will allows them to know to use a LITHIUM CHARGER on the Battery. The stickers also inform the persons entering the Giveaway that they are getting a very high-end Antigravity Battery which is a considered one of the top brands of Lithium Batteries, and just as important the stickers informs them that the battery has the very cool "RE-START" feature which offers Built-in WIRELESS JUMP STARTING which is a massively cool feature. I assume there will be many entrants into your contest and not all of them will be the knowledgeable Rennlist Community. So they may not know what the battery actually is or can do without stickers on it telling them. Anyway just making that observation.

- Feel free to reach out to use with any questions, and please take a moment to test the battery if its been sitting on a shelf for a year. You can reach us as scott@antigravitybatteries, or Chad@antigravitybatteries for all the tech answers.

my first 911

can a "dead" battery be brought back to life or is it garbage?

Money2536

That sounds like a good idea. I used to use a fine misting spray bottle with distilled water in it.

Money2536

Great input! I took all the logo'd stuff off and left the top and size barcoded sticker on it, so we knew what it was.

Antigravity

If it gets too low in voltage and over discharged and is truly dead the BMS would actually lock the battery out and it would no longer be usable. But the main point of the battery management system is to help protect against that aspect, when it initially shuts the battery down it does so where the battery is low but still in a good state of charge and not too low. One point of emphasis in regards to this is that we don't want to see the battery sit for too long of a duration (longer than a month) after the protections been triggered to avoid this. Hopefully that helps clarify.

Money2536

I'm a little ahead of this after working on the car the past week, but here is an update on where I am at with it.

I'm telling you bros, you need one of these in your life.
Hytorc Centerlock Removal Tool: https://www.obsessedgarage.com/produ...y&_ss=e&_v=1.0

Wonderdan

If my garage was a tax write off I would def have one of those tools I wonder if it’s easy to use on the axle nut also.

petekal6

Matt,

Check out PMB Performance in Utah for brake caliper restoration. It may save you some $$$.

Here's their instagram that shows a lot of their results. Plus they'll properly paint them whatever color you want.
https://www.instagram.com/pmb_performance/


-Pete

Auto_Werks 3.6

My fiancé and I have been following along, we laughed when you said “guys and girl”… she probably is the only girl watching.

i think replacing the links with the stock parts is probably the best bet. I’m suspicious that working the rear back into a street camber and toe setting might have put some of those adjustments into the edge of their range. The rear of my car was super annoying to align with the stock parts. It took several times on the rack to be satisfied that it stayed. I sort of assumed that all those aftermarket links would make that easier by removing the rubber. If TPC says they’re still tricky to align with the metal bearings, it’s certainly possible.

as far as the oil change. The one that you said might be the fill is the second drain. The first thing you were looking at was the oil tank. You must counter hold the tank fitting with a larger wrench, or risk tearing the fitting off the tank when you remove its plug. The fill is on top of the engine.

Elliotw44

Matt will be interesting to see if you go Tractive. As info is sparse on their coilovers. One large pro for the Tractive coilovers is it works with the OEM FAL system. So through the OEM button, Pump and hoses. I've heard some stories of issues with the Tractive shocks failing and leaking. For an expensive shocks that has me hesitant. Just doing the DSC box really helps on the street from a comfort level and I've put over 10,000 miles(Street & Track) on this combo. So maybe a fresh set of shocks + DSC box could be an option as well. Good luck!

jreifler

The various plugs you noted are all on the engine case. Those are not related to the trans. You need to move towards the front of the car, remove the plastic cover to expose the transmission, and your trans drain and fill plugs will be there. Fill plug is on the driver's side behind the oil cooler.

The first oil drain plug you identified is for the oil reservoir. That's not a thing on the 981, but it is on Mezgers. The other drain plug is on the case itself (the one you thought might be for the diff).

Your drop links are definitely Tarrett, and they've put a Tarrett "kit" on your lower control arms. That's your stock control arm, upgraded with Tarrett monoball inner bushings, and thrust arm bushings.

Your rear lower toe arms are not stock. Stock are not adjustable. Yours look like they might also be Tarrett adjustable. Your upper "control arms" are Elephant Racing (ERP). Obviously defer to Tom / TPC on their suggestions, but unless you have issues with NVH from all the aftermarket stuff and solid bushings, I don't think going back to stock will help with the drivability issues you noted. If anything, you'll lose subtle adjustability and re-introduce relatively sloppy rubber bushings and other issues (like dynamic toe changing under load). I'd get a proper alignment by someone who knows these cars before you start swapping stuff.

There's a specific OE center cap removal tool that won't scuff. https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/SKU99XCLCC.html. Alternatively, a little hook and pick tool set will get them right out.

Re: shifting - Have you driven a 997GT without the Numeric? It's super notchy as is, and wildly more so with the Numeric. I recently installed on mine and it's a big difference.

Money2536

Thanks for the input! I figured drain bolts were similar to 991.

Yeah...I'm torn. I think I'm going to figure out the stock-ish set-up first then maybe try some fun stuff.

Good stuff! Thanks man!

Money2536

Thanks for the tip. I just left them a message.

Wonderdan

In my experience there are a few different ways to get the calipers done... in order of bulletproof-ness and cost.

Paint w/vinyl decal w/3 coat clear acrylic finish
Powder w/vinyl decal w/clear powder (only works with black decals as the heat will yellow anything else)
Powder w/Powder stencil then Powder clear (harder because it requires a 1/2 bake on the initial powder before the stencil)

The number of options you or 'they' can do with the actual pistons/seals prob requires its own thread, lots of trade offs but ultimately titanium wins, www.hayworthracingbrakes.com is also a good option