Money2536

Since I've set the clock on when to do the raffle on the car, the most immediate need was make a decision on what to do with the transmission. One of the previous owners stated earlier in this thread that the transmission had been addressed. So I was hoping it was either an adjustment of the Numeric or cables. I tried that last month, and just made it worse. The car was darn near impossible to rev match downshift and very difficult to do regular upshift into 2nd and 3rd. My guess is that it would be possible the get it right with finer adjustment, but I had this one thing looming over the car. It was an uncertainty if the synchros, clutch, or pressure plate were the issue. So I decided the smartest thing to do is to pull the Numeric and Cables out the car and go back to stock. Even if it was shifting properly, dare I say...it's just too darn mechanical and notchy feeling.

I bought a new stock shifter: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/99742401091/
and stock cables: https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/GT2GT3480SSC.html

















This reinstall was actually surprisingly easy.















The new shifter comes with the centering tool.





I also changed the diff/trans fluid. It takes about 3.5 quarts.







The great news! It's fixed! No pulling the transmission or engine. It drives like it should, and I couldn't be more excited.

Matt-R20

Great news @Money2536 , glad it worked out. That Numeric was really stiff. Stock is a little crunchy, but totally normal.

plpete84

This looks REALLY good - well done, Matt. Stance is a matter of personal preference sometimes but I've always liked a somewhat linear amount of gap around the wheel - fender. This is it now. I think the rear looks great and going to Cup2s will help even more with the front due to the shape of the tire, especially around the sidewall. PS4S are awesome but depending on the tire and rim size they can have the stretched look, which I'm not a fan of. Look forward to seeing photos and videos on the new wheels on it!

D-Uber Cars

There is more lubricant covering your hand than the entire bottom of the car! So incredibly clean.

Dubber

Imagine he had the equivalent for the upper bolster. Game changer!

Wonderdan

I took the other approach and ordered an OE replacement. I figure when I’m old and it’s time to look at the car instead of drive I’ll replace it. Oddly almost exactly the same price.

Wonderdan

That Door sill you replaced, was it part 997 551 982 00. It’s crazy to me to it’s like $1100… find it anywhere cheaper?

neurotic

I have a cage installed in my RS that I want to remove; does anybody know a good place to source factory rear carpet?

my first 911

I got a price from the dealer of around $1,100 for the floor of my 997.1 gt3. My car has damage to the carpet from using the wrong harness mounts on the seats so I did not need the upper tray portion. You also have to prepay and they quoted me 6-8 weeks.

Auto_Werks 3.6

How did you decide on the amsoil transmission oil rather than the Mobil Delvac or factory fill? Did you friend at Dundon use Amsoil? I run their euro oil in the engine, but I need something for the gear box asap.

Money2536

Ha, ha... Yeah, it is dialed in now. I did about a weeks worth of dry ice cleaning to it.

I ordered this one: https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/997DSZ.html $280

Yeah, Charles Dundon recommends running Amsoil 75W90 in the trans/diff and 5W40.

Money2536

I hate the mess, but love the process of a fluid change.


Step 1: Figure out what to buy and from where.
Step 2: Get the stuff and access to make sure I have what I need knowing that I'll always be missing something.
Step 3: Make the mess.
Step 4: Smile and love the placebo that all has been righted in the world while my cares melt away knowing how slick the innards of my car are now lubricated.

There are some old threads here and there on how to do some of this stuff, but I do find it difficult at times to find all this info on this car. I know it's out there, but it isn't always easy to discover.

- Parts Needed -
Oil: 5w40 Amsoil x 10 Quarts https://www.amsoil.com/p/sae-5w-40-m...motor-oil-afl/
Oil Filter Kit: https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/PKGT3OFK.html
Drain Plug: https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/PK997PLUG.html
Hazet Filter Socket: https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/SKU99XWRENCH.html
Transmission/Differential Gear Oil: 75W90 Amsoil x 4 Quarts https://www.amsoil.com/p/manual-tran...be-75w-90-mtg/
Stubby 10mm Allen: https://sonictoolsusa.com/products/h...key-set-9-pcs/
Axle Lift Pressure Switch: https://www.getporschesilverspringpa...ch-99734196790

I bought 3 quarts, but you need 4.


I bought 10 quarts. I ended up only using 9.




I may cost a bit more, but I have always preferred to buy the premade kits from Suncoast.




I decided to do all the fluids at once since I had the panels off. The trans needs about 3.5 quarts of fluid. My buddies at Dundon suggested Amsoil in the gear box as well, so I bought the cheap pump and filled it. A bunch of people said you need to fill 7mm shy of full. I'm not sure how you do that. I'm all ears on how to do that if you wouldn't mind sharing. I filled until oil pours out.






The oil change was pretty routine. I don't like how my catch can isn't wide enough to pull both oil drain bolts. Make sure to take the cap off the fill hole as sell as remove the oil filter. A bunch more oil came out after I took the cap off. I always do that first, but this time I had the car in the air, so I pulled the drain bolts first. I was surprised that opening the top released a bunch.



]

]

Prep the filter by pulling the big oring and replacing it. The Suncoast kit didn't come with a replacement for the little oring.



This is the tool you really want to have if you have a 911.





Suction out the oil with a turkey baster from the filter housing.







After cleaning up and putting everything back together, I put 0.5 quarts in the oil filter housing, and 8.5 in the main fill hole. I checked the level and reset the light using this janky tool.

https://amzn.to/40Pt6Wp

Money2536

I was following a thread that I can't seem to find again that broke down the Front Axle Lift system. Somewhere in there, was recommendation of what could be the root cause of the issue I was having.

- My front lift goes up, but the center gauge pod never indicates LIFT on the screen.
- When the lift is in the "up" position, the car is not recognizing it. If you attempt to put the lift back down by depressing the button, the light stays orange, and the car doesn't do anything.
- Once the car reaches 35 mph, the lift automatically goes down.

The reason posed in the thread is that the driver's side pressure switch is faulty. That makes some sense as the guage pod never indicates LIFT.

I bought this pressure switch: Part number - 997 341 967 90
https://www.getporschesilverspringpa...ch-99734196790

The kit comes a bunch of stuff you won't need. All you really need is the pressure switch and crush washer.







Take the screw out with flat blade screw driver and pop both caps off. It looks like my car had some aftermarket zip ties, so it may not have been as tight, but my wiring was too tight to remove or get the passenger side cap all the way off and out of the way. I was still able to wiggle a socket into place to remove the the driver's side pressure switch that needed replacement.





Make sure to take not of the wiring configuration and numbering, so you can replace the old with the new correctly.







Make sure you don't forget to put new crush washer back on the new one like I did.







At minute 6:30, I show what needed to be done.

mileage

Coming along very nicely. Glad you got the shift situation sorted. I ran numeric cables on my last car and hated them, just added unnecessary effort. Anything else planned for the exterior? Maybe some RS 4.0 wing end plates?

Money2536

About 50% of the reason I was able to get over the hump of buying an unknown condition car was that I knew I could dry ice clean the thing and fix pretty much anything that needed to be. I did the cleaning a few weeks ago, but I needed to get the photos edited and my thoughts together. This will probably take a few posts to get through.


A little backstory...

My friend Tommy Farrell (Tommy Fyeah on YouTube) dropped by OGHQ to do a podcast with me. He started talking about dry ice cleaning. I was familiar with Vapor Honing, but this was new to me. Part of the reason he was in town was that he was going to visit a guy about 30 minutes from me. Later that day he connected me with my now business partner, Scott Ales. It turns out the oracle of bringing dry ice cleaning to the car world lives down the street from me. We are kindred spirits, so naturally we hit it off immediately. Fast forward to today, I have the website, following, and distribution model and Scott has the acquired knowledge, a unique dealership customer base, and lots and lots of experience and relationships in the classic car world. So we've teamed up to bring what are the best dry ice machines and are building full compressed air solution to market.

Part of the excitement about cleaning my slightly janked 997 RS is that we had just gotten the very first machine designed and built from the ground up that is made specifically for car care. It's called the IC-030. My car was the very first muse for testing and critiquing this new machine.







There are a few things you need to know about dry ice cleaning. First, you can't just hook it up to your Husky air compressor. For the IC-030, you want something that can deliver 60 CFM to get the max out of the machine. Scott has a 180CFM monster 40hp 3 phase Kaeser compressor with a 250 gallon wet and 250 gallon dry tank as well as really large desiccant dryer. You don't need this much, but you would need a substantial set-up to make it work well.

So you are looking at $20,000 to $40,000 for you compressor and another $10,900 for the dry ice machine.

If you'd like to read more or get involved in this cool tech, here are a few links:
www.obsessedgarage.com/collections/dry-ice
www.drycenation.com

IC-030: https://www.obsessedgarage.com/colle...leaning-system
I think this is the machine you really want. I have the smaller EVO at OGHQ, but that one is more suited for more basic detailing vs. restorative work like what we are doing with the 997.











Scott has been working on various solutions and has come up with this modified paint booth. You absolutely need a 2 post lift as well. The stuff you are blasting off the car has to go somewhere, so having the booth and curtain keeps all the gunk in one place that can be easily swept up.







The other you can't work without is the obvious, dry ice. Remember Dry Ice is simple liquid CO2 converted into a solid and then palletized. The machines don't take blocks of ice, they need little pellets. While I was there working on my car for the week, Scott got his new dry ice making machine operational. Otherwise you need a service to deliver. Scott's comes from Airgas. You need to buy 500 pounds at a time. The goal is to be able to make the ice onsite, but most will have it delivered.



This is a liquid CO2 tank. It cost between $0.40 and $2.00 per pound depending on where you get it and how much you order.







This is what the ice looks like. This is quite a bit uglier as this was 2 week old delivered ice, but you get the drift.









I needed to get the car on the lift and taken apart. All of the underbody plastic panels, fender liners, and rear bumper were taken off, but first I needed to take off the wheels.

Hytorc Gun: https://www.obsessedgarage.com/produ...ock-torque-gun