jreifler

Thanks so much, JB. Saved all the PDFs for my binder! I browsed the sticky and saw everything on cleaning, inspecting, lubricating, etc., but didn't register the requirement that the car be in the air. Obviously, would have used my QuickJack if actually removing the wheels, but figured (wrongly) that if only the centerlocks were coming off and going right back on, no weight-bearing issues would be in play.

Will try again this evening.

pissedpuppy

GL with that and I really mean it

5 Lug FTW

5 Lug Conversion runner-up

jreifler

LOL. Well, having had the car for 2 weeks now, not eager to undertake the conversion. This also won't be a regular track car for me, so wheels will come off infrequently. GT4 will fill that role.

pissedpuppy

I hear ya! I not only love the idea of center locks, I love how they look too

guessing I'm unlikely to need to even remove my wheels (fingers crossed), I should really have no fear of them

so did you get it off?

Auto_Werks 3.6

I've never seen it laid out specifically, but I understand that loosening the nut with weight on the wheel can cause the system to fail while driving, and the wheel to fall off. What makes sense to me is the center lock female threads are fairly delicate looking and made from aluminum. They are designed to work as a nut / bolt and only provide tension to the system. Any bending stress is supposed to be resolved at the actual hub face (brake rotor) . It seems like once the torque is removed the system could easily become damaged if the aluminum parts start to receive side loads from the wheel. The steel cone of the nut keeps the wheel centered and tight on the brake rotor. Once there is no load on the steel cone, all sorts of bad things can start to happen, including load on the drive pins.

jreifler

Haven't tried again since my first attempt. Been waiting for the RL collective knowledge to trickle in. But I think I have it now.

jreifler

That makes sense. I was probably just incorrectly transferring standard principle / practice of breaking bolt torque with the wheels on the ground and then fully removing once in the air . . .

JB911

With the car in the air, start engine so brakes have vacuum power-I believe then the car can be shut off and vacuum lasts for a while. Someone has to step on the brakes or a tool used to keep it pressed. I don't know the length of your breaker bar but I suggest a hardware store pipe, 4-6 feet in length with diameter to slip onto the breaker bar, and I bet that will loosen it. Have someone push the tool against the CL so it doesn't slip. The other front wheel can be on the ground while you loosen the problem one, helping keep the steering from turning-
If you've only had the car 2 weeks, it would seem previous owner did not do proper maintenance.
I've seen indie shops with no Optimol at all, and other greases are unacceptable as far as I know-

And needless to say, lefty loosey, righty tighty...

jreifler

Thanks. Precision breaker and TQ are both roughly 5'. Already tried the additional pipe, which didn't help. Maintenance records are perfect, but that doesn't mean someone failed to use appropriate amounts of Optimol (or over-torqued).

JB911

I'd be curious to see how a dealer would tackle this. Is there a P dealer nearby? With the car high up on a lift, it would minimize the possibility of the wrench slipping and hitting the fender, 2 people could pull down on it. I think some dealers have the torque multiplier tool.

jreifler

There is, and I would not trust them to remove a single thing on any car I own. If I can't sort it through "normal" efforts, my P-car mechanic will get it. He usually solves my "mysteries" within a matter of minutes and then mocks me appropriately.

jreifler

Still no dice. Wheels in air. Brakes depressed. Owner depressed. Triple checked that the center pins were retracting and re-seating properly, etc. All other wheels will loosen.

Torque multiplier ordered, and is the last resort before seeking various types of professional help.

Broncozx

You would need more than 600nm, so maybe a longer breaker bar ?

Nice looking car

jreifler

Thanks. The Precision wrench and breaker goes up to 600 ft/lb. Spec is ~440 ft/lb. I've put the full 600 on it in the "off" direction with zero movement . . . I don't think it's an issue of inadequate force. It's either seized or just on there too damn tightly. All the other lugs will break free.

8Lug

Let us know how you make out with the torque multiplier.