GT3 Centerlock Removal
#16
Will try again this evening.
#18
The following users liked this post:
pissedpuppy (01-13-2021)
#19
guessing I'm unlikely to need to even remove my wheels (fingers crossed), I should really have no fear of them
so did you get it off?
Last edited by pissedpuppy; 01-13-2021 at 01:09 PM.
#20
I had the brakes applied, but wasn't jacking the car because (1) I didn't know that was a required step; and (2) I was only removing the centerlocks to replace them, and have no other need to remove the wheels.
It's no problem for me to get the car in the air, but just for my edification, why can't the wheels be on the ground for this? Will that actually prevent the locks from disengaging ?
Thanks again to all for the education!
It's no problem for me to get the car in the air, but just for my edification, why can't the wheels be on the ground for this? Will that actually prevent the locks from disengaging ?
Thanks again to all for the education!
Last edited by Auto_Werks 3.6; 01-13-2021 at 12:59 PM.
#21
Haven't tried again since my first attempt. Been waiting for the RL collective knowledge to trickle in. But I think I have it now.
The following users liked this post:
pissedpuppy (01-13-2021)
#22
I've never seen it laid out specifically, but I understand that loosening the nut with weight on the wheel can cause the system to fail while driving, and the wheel to fall off. What makes sense to me is the center lock female threads are fairly delicate looking and made from aluminum. They are designed to work as a nut / bolt and only provide tension to the system. Any bending stress is supposed to be resolved at the actual hub face (brake rotor) . It seems like once the torque is removed the system could easily become damaged if the aluminum parts start to receive side loads from the wheel.
#23
With the car in the air, start engine so brakes have vacuum power-I believe then the car can be shut off and vacuum lasts for a while. Someone has to step on the brakes or a tool used to keep it pressed. I don't know the length of your breaker bar but I suggest a hardware store pipe, 4-6 feet in length with diameter to slip onto the breaker bar, and I bet that will loosen it. Have someone push the tool against the CL so it doesn't slip. The other front wheel can be on the ground while you loosen the problem one, helping keep the steering from turning-
If you've only had the car 2 weeks, it would seem previous owner did not do proper maintenance.
I've seen indie shops with no Optimol at all, and other greases are unacceptable as far as I know-
And needless to say, lefty loosey, righty tighty...
If you've only had the car 2 weeks, it would seem previous owner did not do proper maintenance.
I've seen indie shops with no Optimol at all, and other greases are unacceptable as far as I know-
And needless to say, lefty loosey, righty tighty...
Last edited by JB911; 01-13-2021 at 04:17 PM.
#24
With the car in the air, start engine so brakes have vacuum power-I believe then the car can be shut off and vacuum lasts for a while. Someone has to step on the brakes or a tool used to keep it pressed. I don't know the length of your breaker bar but I suggest a hardware store pipe, 4-6 feet in length with diameter to slip onto the breaker bar, and I bet that will loosen it. Have someone push the tool against the CL so it doesn't slip. The other front wheel can be on the ground while you loosen the problem one, helping keep the steering from turning-
If you've only had the car 2 weeks, it would seem previous owner did not do proper maintenance.
I've seen indie shops with no Optimol at all, and other greases are unacceptable as far as I know-
If you've only had the car 2 weeks, it would seem previous owner did not do proper maintenance.
I've seen indie shops with no Optimol at all, and other greases are unacceptable as far as I know-
#25
I'd be curious to see how a dealer would tackle this. Is there a P dealer nearby? With the car high up on a lift, it would minimize the possibility of the wrench slipping and hitting the fender, 2 people could pull down on it. I think some dealers have the torque multiplier tool.
#26
I'd be curious to see how a dealer would tackle this. Is there a P dealer nearby? With the car high up on a lift, it would minimize the possibility of the wrench slipping and hitting the fender, 2 people could pull down on it. I think some dealers have the torque multiplier tool.
The following 2 users liked this post by jreifler:
Hella-Buggin' (01-13-2021),
Steve Theodore (01-18-2021)
#27
Still no dice. Wheels in air. Brakes depressed. Owner depressed. Triple checked that the center pins were retracting and re-seating properly, etc. All other wheels will loosen.
Torque multiplier ordered, and is the last resort before seeking various types of professional help.
Torque multiplier ordered, and is the last resort before seeking various types of professional help.
#29
Thanks. The Precision wrench and breaker goes up to 600 ft/lb. Spec is ~440 ft/lb. I've put the full 600 on it in the "off" direction with zero movement . . . I don't think it's an issue of inadequate force. It's either seized or just on there too damn tightly. All the other lugs will break free.