997gt3rs starting issue
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
997gt3rs starting issue
Hi all
my gt3 will not start.
my key/alarm seems fine,will switch ignition on,but wont engage the starter solinoid.
i have changed the igntion key switch,changed the battery and bypassed the clutch switch on the clutch peddle.
i have the relay board hanging down and can start the car by shorting across the starter solinoid wires,ie direct feed onto the starter solinoid at the small relay under the dash.
The starter relay in the relay board under the dash is not energising when ignition key is trying to start.
The two small wires going onto the coil of the relay are not getting a voltage for some reason when the key is turned to start,so there must be something else inline of the circuit.
any ideas please,as i dont have access to a wiring diagrame.
regards
paul
my gt3 will not start.
my key/alarm seems fine,will switch ignition on,but wont engage the starter solinoid.
i have changed the igntion key switch,changed the battery and bypassed the clutch switch on the clutch peddle.
i have the relay board hanging down and can start the car by shorting across the starter solinoid wires,ie direct feed onto the starter solinoid at the small relay under the dash.
The starter relay in the relay board under the dash is not energising when ignition key is trying to start.
The two small wires going onto the coil of the relay are not getting a voltage for some reason when the key is turned to start,so there must be something else inline of the circuit.
any ideas please,as i dont have access to a wiring diagrame.
regards
paul
#2
Rennlist Member
Hi Paul,
I posted this thread a while back:
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-gt2-...ter-click.html
I've still cleaned all contacts since then to make sure I have no corrosion or bad contacts(very humid here)
I also cleaned all the nuts right at the starter(try a file or fine sandpaper if they look dirty after using electrical cleaning spray)
The positive cable connector going to the firewall should be cleaned as well-I could have wasted money on a starter or worse taken it to a shop where most likely it would have been replaced(easiest option and money maker for them)
What were the original symptoms of your malfunctions? If you bypassed the clutch switch, one less thing in the way to get to the problem(assuming the bypassing was successful) Others might be able to chime in with their experiences-
There are so many wiring diagrams so you'd have to concentrate on the ones that might directly or indirectly affect starting the car(?)
Be patient(not easy)double check all grounds are clean and tight, and again, clean the cables and 13mm nuts and the10mm one at the starter-
#3
Advanced
Thread Starter
Thanks for the wiring diagram.
as said i can start the car from inside under the dash by shorting the solinoid feed wire at the relay,the relay is not energising when the key is turned,so something else mist be in the circuit that is not allowing the small relay under the dash to energise.
all earths are good as it starts from under the dash.
may be the alarm/imobaliser has a fault?
as said i can start the car from inside under the dash by shorting the solinoid feed wire at the relay,the relay is not energising when the key is turned,so something else mist be in the circuit that is not allowing the small relay under the dash to energise.
all earths are good as it starts from under the dash.
may be the alarm/imobaliser has a fault?
#6
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
You get this resolved. I shorted the main wire from my alternator to ground in my 997 for about 30 seconds.and now whenever I try to start the car, I blow the 80A terminal 6 fused link in the power distribution block, the dash goes black and the key gets stuck in the ignition.
Trying to determine what else I cooked during the short. Key in the full accessory position works fine, until I push in the clutch and try to engage the starter, then poof - 80A fusible link fails
Figure could be starter, some other relay, DME, etc but don't really know where to start.
Thanks.
Trying to determine what else I cooked during the short. Key in the full accessory position works fine, until I push in the clutch and try to engage the starter, then poof - 80A fusible link fails
Figure could be starter, some other relay, DME, etc but don't really know where to start.
Thanks.
#7
How did you resolve staring issue
Hi Paul,
I’m trying help a friend who has a manual 997.2 with same symptoms you had in your GT3.
The car will start when you bridge starter relay in tray above drivers footwell.
Clutch switch is OK, battery good. Engine stops when you turn off ignition at the key.
Have done PIWIS 2 scan and not found a relevant fault.
I’m betting yours is OK now. What was the fix?
thanks and regards,
Matt
I’m trying help a friend who has a manual 997.2 with same symptoms you had in your GT3.
The car will start when you bridge starter relay in tray above drivers footwell.
Clutch switch is OK, battery good. Engine stops when you turn off ignition at the key.
Have done PIWIS 2 scan and not found a relevant fault.
I’m betting yours is OK now. What was the fix?
thanks and regards,
Matt
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#8
Rennlist Member
Clean all contacts, especially the quick release positive connector on the firewall. I eventually replaced my starter-solenoid contact was corroded inside, and the positive post broke off when I tried to loosen the 13mm nut
Details on this thread:
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-gt2-...1-gt3rs-2.html
JB
Details on this thread:
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-gt2-...1-gt3rs-2.html
JB
#9
Quit Smokin'
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I had problems with mine that were similar... the ultimate root cause was that the starter solenoid was inconsistently having a problem. It had subsequently caused some other problems too. Replacing that 80amp fuse in the dash is a pain in the butt for sure. The quick disconnect positive cable is "cute", but also probably not my favorite design element of the car.
#10
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I had problems with mine that were similar... the ultimate root cause was that the starter solenoid was inconsistently having a problem. It had subsequently caused some other problems too. Replacing that 80amp fuse in the dash is a pain in the butt for sure. The quick disconnect positive cable is "cute", but also probably not my favorite design element of the car.
#11
Thanks JB and Autowerks, replies much appreciated.
The issue I’ve got is exactly same as the OP, Bergmeister, had with his 911 GT3 RS. So I’m hoping he will let me know how it was fixed, or if anyone else knows how it was fixed and post the solution. For clarity there is no problem with the car starting/cranking over as long as the start relay in the relay tray high in right side footwell is bridged. It does not get an energising voltage when the ignition key is turned to start position. All other electrics are working fine. The engine stops when the key is turned off so we assume it is ‘talking’ to the ecu.
Thanks in advance.
Best, Matt
The issue I’ve got is exactly same as the OP, Bergmeister, had with his 911 GT3 RS. So I’m hoping he will let me know how it was fixed, or if anyone else knows how it was fixed and post the solution. For clarity there is no problem with the car starting/cranking over as long as the start relay in the relay tray high in right side footwell is bridged. It does not get an energising voltage when the ignition key is turned to start position. All other electrics are working fine. The engine stops when the key is turned off so we assume it is ‘talking’ to the ecu.
Thanks in advance.
Best, Matt