JG 996T

Not listed now.
two lower mile cars listed over 200

Mr. Adair

Correct! ^

Do not get pulled into the car for the wrong reason: love the color, great price, etc. there are too many great cars out there now to not find pretty much the car you want with a clean DME.

Fritz Flynn

I'd be more concerned about the stage 1s LOL

Seriously you should never get an over rev on a 997 unless you make a mistake and that's a lot of mistakes. This isn't a car I'd buy unless it's WAY below market.

This looks like a good deal if it checks out: https://www.dupontregistry.com/autos...t3--rs/1989828

rbahr

Fritz makes a good point - the ONLY way to get a motor in one of these cars > 9K is to miss a shift...

So I need to ask Why *this* car?

Ray

CT944

I'd guess because it's the lowest priced 2010 RS in the market, therefore a potential opportunity. I think with the right level of due diligence and independent inspection, it's a good buy for the right person not wanting a garage queen for $175k. You can't be worried about resale nor worried about a $5k, $10k, etc. repair. Buy it, drive it, have a lot of fun with it, and in 3 years it might have 35k miles and will still be worth $125k minimum.

rbahr

As you can see from the responses you have, if / when you go to sell it, it will need to be at best deeply discounted, and even then not easy to sell. A lot of 'ifs' follow

IF the motor had been torn down, then one could say - yea, but it has been gone through (this is my situation).
IF you were buying this to make it into a track car, then, it is a good starting point.

WRT cost - a motor rebuild for this is at least $25K - probably more, tranny - I do know the my 6GT3 tranny is $10-$15K based on experience, some of the later 997 GT3's are a bit cheaper to work on...

Ray

Mr. Adair

I've been in your shoes. If you are stretching money wise I understand why you are focusing on this car. If you are not stretching and can spend another 10K you can find what you want. There are plenty of cars to choose from between the price of this car and a 175K garage queen. As an example of resale in flat market my 2010 RS had 13K for miles, had a perfect DME ranges 3-5 and was in a very rare color and it still took 90 days to sell. I believe the market may even be a little softer now. Buyers usually run from range 5 cars. As others have noted, if this is a keeper car for the next 10 years and everything checks out so be it. You may be surprised at the push back when you go to sell if you have Range 5's even if the price is correct.

noro

Those are not many ignitions.. at that RPM it suggest a very short spike resulting from a mis-shift and it probably does not have enough rotations to have caused real damage as you attest from the leakdown/compression testing. HOWEVER.. the sad reality is that this is like having a criminal record without knowing the real details of the case.. in your imagination it is probably worse than it is...Someone will post a similar question on this forum years from now when you are selling this car and the potential buyer will ultimately be talked out of it. As other have said, if you are getting an incredible discount from this car then go for it... otherwise spend more and get one without history.

CT944

I am not buying, like others just commenting I agree, if OP is willing to go higher in price, lots of choices without range 5s.

TiAgMC

I'm going to make my own netflix documentary about the conspiracy theory that is overrev reports

Elfer1

Fritz- that’s the other car I’ve been inquiring about... but it has a pretty big ding on its record... it was stolen. Apparently it was in for service at the dealer and someone came up and grabbed the keys, hopped in and took off. It was recovered a week and a half later because of being improperly parked. Per the salesman, there was zero damage to the car, but I’m still waiting for a DME. If the DME and everything else checks out, I’d be much less concerned about the car having been stolen... or am I being ridiculous once again?

Elfer1

I really appreciate everyone who has chimed in. I figured that the responses would vary, but it seems like the majority are suggesting to look elsewhere. And this is why RL is such a great place... I can always count on honest input.

^ Color, LWB’s, mileage, price (I know... probably not enough to justify THIS car)

^ this. I definitely drive my cars (occasional track use and aggressive street) and don’t have any interest in a garage Queen or anything that I’ll be afraid to drive.

^ These are all good points. When I started tossing around the idea of trading up, it was for a GT3... so obviously at a lower price point than an RS. But when I saw that an RS could be had for slightly higher than GT3 $, I started to rationalize. I could go up to $140k, but I’m not sure I want to. Seems like there are several good .1 GT3’s out there right now for around $85k which is at a price point where I don’t need to unload the 993 to make this happen.

^ what price would you consider an “incredible discount”?

Colorado964turbo

Lots of good advice here so far. My 2 cents it to not buy from Mr Adair as his last RS was a terrible color...... oh wait! I’m loving this car.

Bxstr

All of us on here will probably say to buy the most minty car that you can, because it is not our money and also because there is less risk in buying something that does not have over revs and does not have a story. As far as what you end up buying, I would probably go for the nicer version of the lesser car, so just getting a GT3 instead of an RS, but buying a GT3 without a story. I would say a nice 997.1 GT3 without a story, no paintwork and a clean DME is going to run you in the $90s if you want average mileage. Switchcars just put up a really clean 997.1 GT3 for around $160k. Just some options out there to consider. Best of luck!

noro

> what price would you consider an “incredible discount”?

-15% for comparable cars.