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I’m not currently a GT3 (or GT2) owner, but I’ve got a 997.2 GTS and a 993 - so very familiar with 911’s. I’m considering moving both of my current cars into a 997.1/2 GT3 or GT3 RS.
I’m looking at a 997.2 RS and it has overrevs in Range 5 on the DME. The 3, 4 and 5 ignitions occurred about 270 hours ago (806 total operating hours) and no issues of any kind with the car currently. The dealer performed a compression and leakdown testing, which both showed no problems. My question is: Am I being ridiculous for even considering this car? I appreciate any and all advice.
As usual it depends. You’ll suffer when you go to resell so make sure the upfront price is right. If the leak down and compression numbers are fine it wouldn’t bother me but I would make sure I used it as heavy leverage to get the price down.
Must be a pretty serious misshift since range 5 is probably close to 10k rpm? On the other hand, I think any engine damage would've shown itself by 270hours, and the compression test is clean. I think if I were in your shoes I would still move forward if everything else about the car is perfect...but only if the price is under market due to the DME.
But I guess you won't feel guilty putting some overrevs on it anymore
did you witness the compression test or was it on video? for such a big event and possible consequences, I would be sure to witness at least video before moving forward. Lots of shops cheat, and lie. Good luck.
Sounds like you are doing the smart stuff (readout and L&C test). This Range #5 event was 274 hours ago. That's probably about +10,400 miles ago. A Range #5 event on this car is >10,000 - <11,000 RPM. Buy at a sharky price and enjoy.
Only thing missing is total mileage. Take the missing number and devide by total op hours (806.6). Does it make sense? Should be about 35-45. This helps to "validate" the odometer, and give a sense about a car being city or highway driven. For example, my Porsches average high, in the 52 range, since I'm never in traffic, nor daily drive in city traffic.
If you plan on keeping this car forever, I say go for it. Request a leak down and purchase a fidelity warranty and offer them 119 and see if they will bite. at 119 you basically covered for the engine rebuild (maybe take the chance to do sharky 4.1)
I would say to avoid it if you are planing on reselling it in a couple of years. Just how you are asking questions now, someone else will be asking questions when you go to sell, even if you did not have issues with it. You will eventually sell it, just would take more time.
If you are really worried about resale, then perhaps you shouldn't be buying. If you can buy it at low end, then you'll sell it at the low end. It's all relative.
did you witness the compression test or was it on video? for such a big event and possible consequences, I would be sure to witness at least video before moving forward. Lots of shops cheat, and lie. Good luck.
I did not witness the testing but the car is at a Porsche dealer and was done at the dealer... so I would hope they’d be honest but I understand where you’re coming from.
Originally Posted by LexVan
Sounds like you are doing the smart stuff (readout and L&C test). This Range #5 event was 274 hours ago. That's probably about +10,400 miles ago. A Range #5 event on this car is >10,000 - <11,000 RPM. Buy at a sharky price and enjoy.
Only thing missing is total mileage. Take the missing number and devide by total op hours (806.6). Does it make sense? Should be about 35-45. This helps to "validate" the odometer, and give a sense about a car being city or highway driven. For example, my Porsches average high, in the 52 range, since I'm never in traffic, nor daily drive in city traffic.
Total mileage is 27,603 - which puts the calculation at 34.22
Originally Posted by jcdeng
If you plan on keeping this car forever, I say go for it. Request a leak down and purchase a fidelity warranty and offer them 119 and see if they will bite. at 119 you basically covered for the engine rebuild (maybe take the chance to do sharky 4.1)
Request an additional leak down?
Originally Posted by CT944
If you are really worried about resale, then perhaps you shouldn't be buying. If you can buy it at low end, then you'll sell it at the low end. It's all relative.
I’m not terribly concerned about resale, but don’t want to lose a ton of money because of the Range 5... but like you say, if I can get it at a deep enough discount, it will offset the loss (hopefully).
If you are really worried about resale, then perhaps you shouldn't be buying. If you can buy it at low end, then you'll sell it at the low end. It's all relative.