TurboTim14

Hi,

Can anyone tell me, is a Guard 80/20 LSD too aggressive for street driving? Or will it not be noticeable compared to stock unless you are hard cornering and driving aggressively on back roads?

ngng

you won't really notice a diff unless one wheel is losing traction (generally from driving hard or doing sweet burnouts)

RobT 394

Give Matt at Guard a call. He will find the best option for you. Superior service.

CosmosMpower

WantA997

They don't.

bergx7

Not quite true. Your wheels are constantly turning at different speeds unless you are going in a straight line. You would feel the LSD on the street, particularly if running a high lockup motorsport unit. Call Matt and get his recommendation. I have the 40/60 club unit and it is great.

MJSpeed

There are several variables, but before I get into those, my question is why? Why do you want or think you need an 80/20 diff? Some of the variables include; wheel and tire size, gearing, track most often visited or is it only street driven, R&P, driving style or preference, etc...

CosmosMpower

Where does one buy from then? Any averages for shop install cost?

HarmonyJim

I bought my Guard 60/40 unit from California Motor Sports (CMS) in Lake Havasu, AZ. The entire Guard 'guts' including the 40/60 or 80/20 ramps (both are on the same unit) run slightly under $2K. If you want to go full racer, the complete Guard billet beauty runs about $2700-2800. You probably don't need it, and you may have to setup the ring & pinion to assure proper operating clearances. This means more money, and for sure removing the transaxle from the vehicle. If you deliver the LSD to CMS (leave ring gear on!!), the labor is very reasonable (about $400-500, iirc). If you go the R&R route and deliver the transaxle complete (they do not R&R from your vehicle), it will run you more obviously, since they will have to remove the LSD, and the shipping starts getting expensive ($440 each way Stockton, CA to Lake Havasu, AZ). You will need to construct a very stout shipping container. To R&R the transaxle, it ran nearly $2K by my quality independent (Salerno Motorsports, Rocklin, CA) but that included the labor for a new RMS. Another situation occurs in that it is a great time to change the RMS and clutch components, adding considerable cost (yes, I did). When CMS received my transaxle for my RS, I went full lunatic and in addition changing the R&P, complete disassembly inspection, and replacement of worn bits (synchro rings, bearings, nuts, etc.) I had a CMS-designed second-gear detent device installed, a taller 6th gearset (to compensate for the lower overall R&P), etc. It gets very expensive in there.