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Brake and clutch bleed today >>

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Old 03-01-2018, 06:11 PM
  #16  
M Coop
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Upon doing it yourself were you able to flush the whole system with one liter? Would you recommend getting two? Performing this in a couple weeks.
Thanks!

Last edited by M Coop; 03-01-2018 at 06:27 PM.
Old 03-01-2018, 06:15 PM
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boostedt0y
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I've used Castrol SRF in the past, but prefer Endless for my car which is 80/20 track/street. Never had any fade issues with SRF but I prefer the pedal feel of Endless. I purchase 1.5 liters when I flush my brakes.
Old 03-02-2018, 09:21 AM
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andrewgt3
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Originally Posted by M Coop
Upon doing it yourself were you able to flush the whole system with one liter? Would you recommend getting two? Performing this in a couple weeks.
Thanks!
1.5L to 2.0L is safe. You can probably do it with 1, but I like to over do it!
Old 03-02-2018, 11:37 AM
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HenryPcar
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Unless you worked on the clutch hydraulic and air has gotten into the system, bleeding the clutch is not needed because, not like the brakes, the clutch lines are not closed-ended. They circulate back to the master cylinder and just by driving around will recycle the brake fluid.

Your drained old fluid look really black and something to keep in mind is that the anti-lock system won't be flushed. Regardless of what others tell you that using the Durametric tool will electronically recycle the anti-lock brake chamber, trust me it won't. Unless you have the dealer tools to activate the valves, the fluids stay put inside the chamber. This is what I do : Before changing brake fluid, I normally take the car out for a spin and brake the car hard a few times to trigger the antil-lock brake. This will at least recycle some old fluid from the chamber. I found out regardless what they claim for the Durametric tool, it just won't recycle anti-lock brake fluid. If you use Super Blue fluid you will notice that regardless of how you flush the brake lines, with your master cylinder showing clean and clear fluid, but once you have to brake and the anti-lock system activated, you notice your newly change fluid in the master cylinder have a blue-tint (if you used Super Blue previously). This came from your anti-lock system a lot of people thought the Super Blue fluid stains your brake lines, causing it to appear bluish even after replacing it with amber colored fluid. Just bear in mind that your anti-lock brake seldom WON'T get recycled under normal daily usage, unless you brake it suddenly, thus triggering the pumping action, the fluid within never recycles by itself and Durametirc wont do it. So the only option is to recycle it manually through the pumping action with hard stops.
Old 03-02-2018, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by henryting
Unless you worked on the clutch hydraulic and air has gotten into the system, bleeding the clutch is not needed because, not like the brakes, the clutch lines are not closed-ended. They circulate back to the master cylinder and just by driving around will recycle the brake fluid.....
great info. the brake fluid in the catch bottle was a mix of old amber fluid (dirty) and new blue fluid, giving it a darker look.
Old 03-02-2018, 01:48 PM
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Skyhawk172
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So should the brakes be bled @ every brake replacement or just @ the 2 year intervals? How would air get in the system if you don't open or crack a line?
Old 03-02-2018, 02:14 PM
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HenryPcar
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I would bled the brake system every time you worked on the brakes since you have the wheels off. No, air won't get into the system if you do'n't loosen the line. However if by chance your master cylinder gets empty while bleeding the line, then air will get into it.
Old 03-02-2018, 02:18 PM
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Skyhawk172
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Thanks for the reply, i have a guy doing my brakes today who I hold in high regards and he implied that since we where not going to open the system to just let it be and wait till i flush the system. which kinda makes sense to me.
Old 03-02-2018, 03:56 PM
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Hoyt
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Originally Posted by Spyerx
I put a ball valve on the tubing for the motive. So when i pull the cap close valve refill reservoir then screw cap back on and slowly open valve then give a few pumps. Saves a bit of time pumping pressure back up. I also don’t put fluid in the motive.
Originally Posted by steve porter
I put a one way disconnect coupling that I had lying around in mine and used it dry for the first time on the weekend. Made the job a lot simpler as the motive held pressure and screwing the cap on the reservoir without the bottle attached was a joy .https://instagram.com/p/Bfm_e2ygNDy/
I like both these ideas! I'm going to have to try this with mine this weekend with my E30 M3.

Question on brake fluids, which I pretty much think I know the answer, but I'm still asking..... I know the reason why Super Blue is no longer sold here in the States, but is there any other "racing" fluid that NOT amber in color?

I really liked alternating fluid colors when flushing my brakes once a year.
Old 03-02-2018, 04:10 PM
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HenryPcar
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Originally Posted by Hoyt
I like both these ideas! I'm going to have to try this with mine this weekend with my E30 M3.

Question on brake fluids, which I pretty much think I know the answer, but I'm still asking..... I know the reason why Super Blue is no longer sold here in the States, but is there any other "racing" fluid that NOT amber in color?

I really liked alternating fluid colors when flushing my brakes once a year.

I'm not aware of any brake fluids that are not ember color. You can still buy Super Blue via some UK mail order and for that reason, it is very expensive. Thanks to all the Ralph Nader wannabes, they are so stupid that they just assume others are stupid enough to mis-use brake fluids just because they are "blue".
Old 03-02-2018, 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by boostedt0y
I've used Castrol SRF in the past, but prefer Endless for my car which is 80/20 track/street. Never had any fade issues with SRF but I prefer the pedal feel of Endless. I purchase 1.5 liters when I flush my brakes.
+1 I've tried most everything and Endless is my favorite.
Old 03-03-2018, 02:24 PM
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So stoked to be gearing up for Smokies GT. While on the topic of bleeding brakes with Endless fluid I also plan to replace plugs, Oil + filter, Air filter. Are there any other maintenance things anyone would recommend while wheels are off, etc. Thank you!!

Coop
Old 03-03-2018, 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by M Coop
So stoked to be gearing up for Smokies GT. While on the topic of bleeding brakes with Endless fluid I also plan to replace plugs, Oil + filter, Air filter. Are there any other maintenance things anyone would recommend while wheels are off, etc. Thank you!!

Coop
Check for any imbedded nails or cuts. Check the rotors and pads. Apply lubricants on wheel nuts as specified by Porsche prior to mounting it back and torque the nuts down to spec. I would clean the inside of the wheels too.
Old 03-03-2018, 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by M Coop
So stoked to be gearing up for Smokies GT. While on the topic of bleeding brakes with Endless fluid I also plan to replace plugs, Oil + filter, Air filter. Are there any other maintenance things anyone would recommend while wheels are off, etc. Thank you!!

Coop
coil packs
Old 03-04-2018, 02:36 PM
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Thanks all!


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