First Time Buyer - 2007 911 Carrera - Tips?
06-18-2017, 11:04 AM
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First Time Buyer - 2007 911 Carrera - Tips?
Just sold my S55 AMG and stumbled on another life long dream - an affordable 911 - 2007 base model for $33k and 45,000 miles. Will get the extended warranty that saved me $35,000 in repairs with the S55. Fell in love with the 911 at Le Mans in 1981. But I'm 6'4" 230 pounds and never saw me commuting in one. I now have a spare SUV for road trips and the timing may be right for a local driver. What do I need to know other than the cupholders blow before I buy? Coffee addict - please spare me the "real men don't drink coffee while driving" shtick. Got that when I lived in Stuttgart and said you don't want me behind the wheel without coffee! (S55 cupholder sucked too) The AMG forum helped me a ton before I bought and I sense the folks here are equally helpful to noobs. Many thanks in advance.
06-18-2017, 11:37 AM
#2
Race Director
Just sold my S55 AMG and stumbled on another life long dream - an affordable 911 - 2007 base model for $33k and 45,000 miles. Will get the extended warranty that saved me $35,000 in repairs with the S55. Fell in love with the 911 at Le Mans in 1981. But I'm 6'4" 230 pounds and never saw me commuting in one. I now have a spare SUV for road trips and the timing may be right for a local driver. What do I need to know other than the cupholders blow before I buy? Coffee addict - please spare me the "real men don't drink coffee while driving" shtick. Got that when I lived in Stuttgart and said you don't want me behind the wheel without coffee! (S55 cupholder sucked too) The AMG forum helped me a ton before I bought and I sense the folks here are equally helpful to noobs. Many thanks in advance.
My usual advice is to visit the car cold and then start and let the engine run a while as you check out the exterior of the car.
Turn off the A/C. With the A/C on teh fans run and this can possibly mask an overheating problem. (You check the A/C later.) When you turn on the key make sure all warning lights come on then go off. Pay particular attention to the CEL.
The engine should crank smartly and fire right up and settle into an elevated (~1K) cold idle. There can be a bit of "valve clatter" at start up -- can't be avoided with hydraulic lifters -- but it should be gone as soon as the engine runs. You don't want to hear any knocks, distinct ticking, or other abnormal sounds. The engine can be a bit noisy as the engine compartment lid is louvered and lets noise out and the engine is very close to the passenger cabin. You just want to be sure all you hear are normal noises. You might need to listen to a few 997 engines to help you gain a feel for what they sound like.
Let the engine idle while you walk around the car. Look at the body panel finish, and gaps. Gaps should be even. Check around where the bumper cover fits under the head lights and the lights fit inside the fender.
A newish looking headlight paired with a headlight with some patina can be a sign the new highlight was replaced and this can be due to an acccident.
Check the tires. They want to be N-rated, all the same number, same brand, type/model and not too old. Porsche considers 6 years to be the life of the tires.
Check brake rotors. A 1mm lip around the rotor is a sign the rotor is worn out and new rotors, pads, etc., will be needed shortly.
Peer into the radiator openings. You bring a good flashlight of course. Lots of trash -- which is common -- means at least you will have to budget removing the bumper cover and cleaning that mess out.
If the radiators are full of trash chances are the body water drains are too. To see these you raise the front trunk lid and remove the covers on either side of the battery. You will need a security Torx bit -- don't recall the size so bring a set -- to remove Torx screw one each that holds the plastic cover over the body water drain basins. A problem with trash here is this can have rain or wash water overflowing into the cabin and the security module sits on the cabin floor under I believe the passenger seat and if these gets wet...
After the engine has idled minutes have the seller take you on a test ride. The route wants to be around 15 miles long and chosen to give the driver an opportunity to drive the car as you intend to use it.
If a Tip/PDK equipped car have the seller do a k-turn to verify the auto can handle a a number of repeated changes in direction with no issues.
Then you want the driver to treat the car to a mix of city, boulevard and highway/freeway miles. After everything is warmed up a hard acceleration up through a couple of gears would be nice. The engine should pull smoothly and strong all the way up to near red line and an upshift followed by more full throttle should have the engine pullng the same way. Afterwards the engine should settle back into purring like a kitten.
At the test ride back at the starting point you drive the car over the same route and drive it the same way.
If a Tip/PDK do a k-turn with the transmission hot.
You must experience the car in its natural state: Engine runnng and the car on the road.
Back at the starting point then give the car a thorough used car checkout. The CPO check list is a good place to start. You can't do all the checks but you can do a number of them.
Be sure everything works from front and rear lid latch switches to head and tai lights, A/C, heater, power seats, everything.
After all of the above if you still like the car and believe it worth owing and believe you can buy it for an acceptable price arrange for a PPI. Among other things this gets the car in the air so a careful check can be made for any leak sign. This is part of the reason for the 15 mile test ride and test drive, to bring the car up to temperature and keep it there for some time.
The test ride and test drive also gives the DME a chance to run through all the readiness monitor checks and either set these to complete or flag a problem and signal same by turning on the CEL.
Every gasket, seal, o-ring, hydraulic line, line connection, hose, hose fitting, CV boot, etc., gets checked for leak sign. Any fluid stain on the bottom of the plastic underbody panels is a leak. The PPI will also look for any signs of accident damage or repair. Uneven tire wear and other things.
Try to find out what services were done and when, at what miles.
I don't know the factory fluid service schedule for the 997 but I follow a 5K mile oil/filter service schedule, with all other fluid services done on the factory schedule or a bit sooner. (That is I might not wait 90K miles but have the tranny/diff fluid changed at 60K or even 50K miles.) That 2 year brake fluid (and if a manual clutch fluid) flush/bleed is important.
Couple of things: One is price is not fact only an opinion.
And last but not least if you find something really "wrong" with this car walk away. There is always another car.
06-18-2017, 11:42 AM
#3
Three Wheelin'
I came from an SLK55 with a Kleeman to the 911 so we have something in common.
There are lots of threads on tips for a 911 purchase and I think the vast majority are usually buy the most you can afford. Don't worry about the IMS, 2007 has the larger bearing. Bore score is another issue but it seems to be cars in colder climates.
But if you have zeroed in on the 2007 MY then a couple of things...at a minimum:
1. Get the S
2. Manual
3. Sport Chrono option
After the above it's up to you, sorry no better cup holder option!
Then something that has a clean carfax, well documented maintenance. There will be things to look for.
1. At least two majors should have been performed based on time by now (plugs, belt, etc)
2. Water pump....seems to go about 50k miles.
3. Coolant reservoir, they crack at the most inopertune time.
4. Inner/outer tie rods wear out at about 50k.
5. Coils, they crack...seems that colder climate cars suffer more. When they need replacing there are better, thick coils now available.
6. Manual trans fluid, it's not forever, change to Mobil PTX it will help with the occasional "can't get it into 1st" issue.
7. Tires will be consumed liberally. A set of fronts for every two sets of rears. Make sure the alignment is spot on.
I'm sure there are a couple of other things....most importantly get a full PPI including borescope.
Good luck! Lots of 911s out there!
There are lots of threads on tips for a 911 purchase and I think the vast majority are usually buy the most you can afford. Don't worry about the IMS, 2007 has the larger bearing. Bore score is another issue but it seems to be cars in colder climates.
But if you have zeroed in on the 2007 MY then a couple of things...at a minimum:
1. Get the S
2. Manual
3. Sport Chrono option
After the above it's up to you, sorry no better cup holder option!
Then something that has a clean carfax, well documented maintenance. There will be things to look for.
1. At least two majors should have been performed based on time by now (plugs, belt, etc)
2. Water pump....seems to go about 50k miles.
3. Coolant reservoir, they crack at the most inopertune time.
4. Inner/outer tie rods wear out at about 50k.
5. Coils, they crack...seems that colder climate cars suffer more. When they need replacing there are better, thick coils now available.
6. Manual trans fluid, it's not forever, change to Mobil PTX it will help with the occasional "can't get it into 1st" issue.
7. Tires will be consumed liberally. A set of fronts for every two sets of rears. Make sure the alignment is spot on.
I'm sure there are a couple of other things....most importantly get a full PPI including borescope.
Good luck! Lots of 911s out there!
06-18-2017, 11:47 AM
#4
Three Wheelin'
If you haven't already bought the car you need to know its condition.
My usual advice is to visit the car cold and then start and let the engine run a while as you check out the exterior of the car.
Turn off the A/C. With the A/C on teh fans run and this can possibly mask an overheating problem. (You check the A/C later.) When you turn on the key make sure all warning lights come on then go off. Pay particular attention to the CEL.
The engine should crank smartly and fire right up and settle into an elevated (~1K) cold idle. There can be a bit of "valve clatter" at start up -- can't be avoided with hydraulic lifters -- but it should be gone as soon as the engine runs. You don't want to hear any knocks, distinct ticking, or other abnormal sounds. The engine can be a bit noisy as the engine compartment lid is louvered and lets noise out and the engine is very close to the passenger cabin. You just want to be sure all you hear are normal noises. You might need to listen to a few 997 engines to help you gain a feel for what they sound like.
Let the engine idle while you walk around the car. Look at the body panel finish, and gaps. Gaps should be even. Check around where the bumper cover fits under the head lights and the lights fit inside the fender.
A newish looking headlight paired with a headlight with some patina can be a sign the new highlight was replaced and this can be due to an acccident.
Check the tires. They want to be N-rated, all the same number, same brand, type/model and not too old. Porsche considers 6 years to be the life of the tires.
Check brake rotors. A 1mm lip around the rotor is a sign the rotor is worn out and new rotors, pads, etc., will be needed shortly.
Peer into the radiator openings. You bring a good flashlight of course. Lots of trash -- which is common -- means at least you will have to budget removing the bumper cover and cleaning that mess out.
If the radiators are full of trash chances are the body water drains are too. To see these you raise the front trunk lid and remove the covers on either side of the battery. You will need a security Torx bit -- don't recall the size so bring a set -- to remove Torx screw one each that holds the plastic cover over the body water drain basins. A problem with trash here is this can have rain or wash water overflowing into the cabin and the security module sits on the cabin floor under I believe the passenger seat and if these gets wet...
After the engine has idled minutes have the seller take you on a test ride. The route wants to be around 15 miles long and chosen to give the driver an opportunity to drive the car as you intend to use it.
If a Tip/PDK equipped car have the seller do a k-turn to verify the auto can handle a a number of repeated changes in direction with no issues.
Then you want the driver to treat the car to a mix of city, boulevard and highway/freeway miles. After everything is warmed up a hard acceleration up through a couple of gears would be nice. The engine should pull smoothly and strong all the way up to near red line and an upshift followed by more full throttle should have the engine pullng the same way. Afterwards the engine should settle back into purring like a kitten.
At the test ride back at the starting point you drive the car over the same route and drive it the same way.
If a Tip/PDK do a k-turn with the transmission hot.
You must experience the car in its natural state: Engine runnng and the car on the road.
Back at the starting point then give the car a thorough used car checkout. The CPO check list is a good place to start. You can't do all the checks but you can do a number of them.
Be sure everything works from front and rear lid latch switches to head and tai lights, A/C, heater, power seats, everything.
After all of the above if you still like the car and believe it worth owing and believe you can buy it for an acceptable price arrange for a PPI. Among other things this gets the car in the air so a careful check can be made for any leak sign. This is part of the reason for the 15 mile test ride and test drive, to bring the car up to temperature and keep it there for some time.
The test ride and test drive also gives the DME a chance to run through all the readiness monitor checks and either set these to complete or flag a problem and signal same by turning on the CEL.
Every gasket, seal, o-ring, hydraulic line, line connection, hose, hose fitting, CV boot, etc., gets checked for leak sign. Any fluid stain on the bottom of the plastic underbody panels is a leak. The PPI will also look for any signs of accident damage or repair. Uneven tire wear and other things.
Try to find out what services were done and when, at what miles.
I don't know the factory fluid service schedule for the 997 but I follow a 5K mile oil/filter service schedule, with all other fluid services done on the factory schedule or a bit sooner. (That is I might not wait 90K miles but have the tranny/diff fluid changed at 60K or even 50K miles.) That 2 year brake fluid (and if a manual clutch fluid) flush/bleed is important.
Couple of things: One is price is not fact only an opinion.
And last but not least if you find something really "wrong" with this car walk away. There is always another car.
My usual advice is to visit the car cold and then start and let the engine run a while as you check out the exterior of the car.
Turn off the A/C. With the A/C on teh fans run and this can possibly mask an overheating problem. (You check the A/C later.) When you turn on the key make sure all warning lights come on then go off. Pay particular attention to the CEL.
The engine should crank smartly and fire right up and settle into an elevated (~1K) cold idle. There can be a bit of "valve clatter" at start up -- can't be avoided with hydraulic lifters -- but it should be gone as soon as the engine runs. You don't want to hear any knocks, distinct ticking, or other abnormal sounds. The engine can be a bit noisy as the engine compartment lid is louvered and lets noise out and the engine is very close to the passenger cabin. You just want to be sure all you hear are normal noises. You might need to listen to a few 997 engines to help you gain a feel for what they sound like.
Let the engine idle while you walk around the car. Look at the body panel finish, and gaps. Gaps should be even. Check around where the bumper cover fits under the head lights and the lights fit inside the fender.
A newish looking headlight paired with a headlight with some patina can be a sign the new highlight was replaced and this can be due to an acccident.
Check the tires. They want to be N-rated, all the same number, same brand, type/model and not too old. Porsche considers 6 years to be the life of the tires.
Check brake rotors. A 1mm lip around the rotor is a sign the rotor is worn out and new rotors, pads, etc., will be needed shortly.
Peer into the radiator openings. You bring a good flashlight of course. Lots of trash -- which is common -- means at least you will have to budget removing the bumper cover and cleaning that mess out.
If the radiators are full of trash chances are the body water drains are too. To see these you raise the front trunk lid and remove the covers on either side of the battery. You will need a security Torx bit -- don't recall the size so bring a set -- to remove Torx screw one each that holds the plastic cover over the body water drain basins. A problem with trash here is this can have rain or wash water overflowing into the cabin and the security module sits on the cabin floor under I believe the passenger seat and if these gets wet...
After the engine has idled minutes have the seller take you on a test ride. The route wants to be around 15 miles long and chosen to give the driver an opportunity to drive the car as you intend to use it.
If a Tip/PDK equipped car have the seller do a k-turn to verify the auto can handle a a number of repeated changes in direction with no issues.
Then you want the driver to treat the car to a mix of city, boulevard and highway/freeway miles. After everything is warmed up a hard acceleration up through a couple of gears would be nice. The engine should pull smoothly and strong all the way up to near red line and an upshift followed by more full throttle should have the engine pullng the same way. Afterwards the engine should settle back into purring like a kitten.
At the test ride back at the starting point you drive the car over the same route and drive it the same way.
If a Tip/PDK do a k-turn with the transmission hot.
You must experience the car in its natural state: Engine runnng and the car on the road.
Back at the starting point then give the car a thorough used car checkout. The CPO check list is a good place to start. You can't do all the checks but you can do a number of them.
Be sure everything works from front and rear lid latch switches to head and tai lights, A/C, heater, power seats, everything.
After all of the above if you still like the car and believe it worth owing and believe you can buy it for an acceptable price arrange for a PPI. Among other things this gets the car in the air so a careful check can be made for any leak sign. This is part of the reason for the 15 mile test ride and test drive, to bring the car up to temperature and keep it there for some time.
The test ride and test drive also gives the DME a chance to run through all the readiness monitor checks and either set these to complete or flag a problem and signal same by turning on the CEL.
Every gasket, seal, o-ring, hydraulic line, line connection, hose, hose fitting, CV boot, etc., gets checked for leak sign. Any fluid stain on the bottom of the plastic underbody panels is a leak. The PPI will also look for any signs of accident damage or repair. Uneven tire wear and other things.
Try to find out what services were done and when, at what miles.
I don't know the factory fluid service schedule for the 997 but I follow a 5K mile oil/filter service schedule, with all other fluid services done on the factory schedule or a bit sooner. (That is I might not wait 90K miles but have the tranny/diff fluid changed at 60K or even 50K miles.) That 2 year brake fluid (and if a manual clutch fluid) flush/bleed is important.
Couple of things: One is price is not fact only an opinion.
And last but not least if you find something really "wrong" with this car walk away. There is always another car.
See....told ya so! This board is filled with great advise!
06-18-2017, 02:23 PM
#5
Racer
Since I am about your size - I had a 997.1 base with standard seats and now have a 997.2S with sport seats. Both cars are extremely comfortable for a large person, even with being 64 years old with many back surgeries. I would say that the standard seats are more comfortable to me.
I found the base had plenty of power, I do enjoy the power of the S but in reality the base had more than enough for the street.
I found the base had plenty of power, I do enjoy the power of the S but in reality the base had more than enough for the street.
06-18-2017, 05:51 PM
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Excellent advice from all. The dealer just called to arrange our appointment (will have to travel to see this car) and he is a car guy who told me much about the bearing issue (presume that's the IMS mentioned by SoCal?). He's doing research on whether it's covered by their extended warranty. Regret car is not an "S" but appears to be a clean one owner model. My self-imposed cap is $35k for my net three year ride, or I would heed the advice to buy more car. Otherwise, I'm looking at Jaguar XK's, Mercedes CL550 or CLS550, or a BMW 550. None of them have the heritage or charm of a 911. And I'll be driving this car until I'm 60, after which I'll probably want more comfort. Now or never!
06-18-2017, 09:00 PM
#7
Three Wheelin'
Yes, and that's the infamous bearing, the IMSB.
Get a 911....I did everything to get the SLK55 to perform in other than a straight line but in the end the computers just won't let you drive the car.
You will have just as much fun in an non-S. I was just thinking resale...but in the end my son will get the 911 when I don't think I love it anymore, or just can't drive it.
Son, if you're reading this it's gonna be a long, long time.
Get a 911....I did everything to get the SLK55 to perform in other than a straight line but in the end the computers just won't let you drive the car.
You will have just as much fun in an non-S. I was just thinking resale...but in the end my son will get the 911 when I don't think I love it anymore, or just can't drive it.
Son, if you're reading this it's gonna be a long, long time.
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06-20-2017, 08:53 AM
#8
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GL, OP. None of those other cars you mentioned are Porsches. You will love the car. I have a 997.1 C2s...it's amazing. Good call on the warranty...just saved myself 4,100 only 6 mos. into ownership. Let us know how you do.
06-21-2017, 12:46 AM
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Bluetooth/Sirius?
Now I'm in a quandary. Drove a similar car yesterday and loved it. Thought I was all in for traveling to check out the car. But a call to my auto audio outfit suggests adding Bluetooth and Sirius is best done by replacing the whole entertainment unit for $2000. Did that for the S55 but the car was much cheaper. Going this route will put me over $40k and I'm not going to do that. Tried to read options here and most recommended nav-tv unit....also same price. Nothing simpler to add to current system?
06-21-2017, 01:00 AM
#10
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Buy it.
06-21-2017, 07:53 AM
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06-21-2017, 11:57 AM
#12
Three Wheelin'
I'm pleased with what I have and will stick with it.
06-21-2017, 12:06 PM
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I did the nav-tv and added Sirius for about $850 installed at a local Al & Eds which interfaces with the factory Bose. I didn't want to lose the computer info and gauge display info when swapping out the entire head unit....as well as pay north of $2K.
I'm pleased with what I have and will stick with it.
I'm pleased with what I have and will stick with it.
06-21-2017, 12:48 PM
#14
Cup holders are good enough for a cup of coffee.
06-21-2017, 12:59 PM
#15
Three Wheelin'
Thanks a bunch. Much more affordable and I like the idea of keeping original unit. When I did the whole system replacement on the S55 I was disappointed. Between glare and sunglasses couldn't see screen in daylight and couldn't use Waze. I'm back in the hunt. Car is a single owner with CarMax in Hartford, Connecticut. I hate to let it pass.
Most say the 911 head unit with Bose is OK to terrible. I guess I rather hear the 911 howl...that's my classic rock music!