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I don't have a measuring caliper but looking at the wheel hub, they seem to be 71.6mm. They are Modulare B18 wheels. I wish their customer support would respond to my inquiries though.
The shaking is always present at highway speeds but sometimes it'll shake intensely, other times not so badly all at the same speeds. It goes crazy when I brake though, so I am pretty convinced it is a rotor issue. The shaking also seems to return to max intensity after I've recentlly used the brakes, regardless of road conditions.
Yeah I'd start with the brakes too given your description. Since your brakes have floating rotors, check to be sure all the mounting hardware is present on the rotor hats. If one or more bolts are missing the balance of the rotors could be off.
A few other easy diagnostics:
1. Remove the center wheel center cap then install the wheel. Visually check for zero gaps at the hub lip
2. If you have spacers in front remove them temporarily while diagnosing the shaking
3. Check the hub bearings and ball joints for play. With the wheel off the ground but still attached to the car, hold the wheel at the 12 and 6 positions and rock it. Then repeat at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions. There should be zero play. 3/9 only usually means tie rods, 12/6 only can be hub or lower control arms. 3/9 and 12/6 is almost always wheel hubs. If you have any play then it's not the brakes.
Your problem reads like a wheel bore center issue. I've had it and it felt very similar. even a millimeter or 2 off will make the wheel vibrate really badly
Yeah I'd start with the brakes too given your description. Since your brakes have floating rotors, check to be sure all the mounting hardware is present on the rotor hats. If one or more bolts are missing the balance of the rotors could be off.
A few other easy diagnostics:
1. Remove the center wheel center cap then install the wheel. Visually check for zero gaps at the hub lip
2. If you have spacers in front remove them temporarily while diagnosing the shaking
3. Check the hub bearings and ball joints for play. With the wheel off the ground but still attached to the car, hold the wheel at the 12 and 6 positions and rock it. Then repeat at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions. There should be zero play. 3/9 only usually means tie rods, 12/6 only can be hub or lower control arms. 3/9 and 12/6 is almost always wheel hubs. If you have any play then it's not the brakes.
Tie rods were recently done. Wheel hub bearings were double checked, and they feel tight. I'm rocking them pretty hard. Thanks for your advice BTW. I see your posts on other threads, and you're nothing but helpful.
Originally Posted by white out
Those look like standard Brembo GT 4 piston calipers.
I think so too. Do you know if the generational differences in GT caliper require different pads?
Originally Posted by Quadcammer
Your problem reads like a wheel bore center issue. I've had it and it felt very similar. even a millimeter or 2 off will make the wheel vibrate really badly
I emailed Modulare and they got back to me with info. They make wheels with no need for centering rings. I bought a measuring caliper and it looks to be the case. I got a reading of 71.3mm (off by .3mm) on the wheel center bore and equivalent on the hub. When the wheels were on the hub and loosely bolted in (by hand only) there was no play whatsover.
I bolted the wheels on, immediately got my tire pressure equalized side to side and test drove. Much better improvement but at this point it HAS to be the brake rotors. It's reading 30.4mm when thickness should be 32.
However we suggest checking other dimensions such as mounting point pcd (between 223 and 243mm) per dwg or call us for further assistance before ordering.
Order comes with complete set of brand new hardware for an easy assembly to the original hat.
However we suggest checking other dimensions such as mounting point pcd (between 223 and 243mm) per dwg or call us for further assistance before ordering.
Order comes with complete set of brand new hardware for an easy assembly to the original hat.
In stock.
I was looking through the offerings on your site earlier. What are the differences between the product codes, 1404-311K-R-01 and 1404-311K?
The thought of a wasted weekend began to really guilt me, so I started to wrench on the car around 8PM Sunday. Before you judge and break out your best internet flames-I was busy. I was supposed to work on it that morning. But my flatmate downed his drone on some millionaire's beach house cliff and his friends had convinced him that buying another drone, attaching a hook and fishing it out was foolproof. Empirical evidence says no, though fools seem to purchase drones in higher frequency.
I accrued a set of rotor rings from girodisc, hawk HPS 5.0 F/R and some motul fluid over the weeks. I was hoping to be done by 12 but the cleaning took a bit longer than I thought.
Everything looked pretty good. The wheels spun freely in the air with no sticky point. I was worried all these new parts wouldn't solve the issue. Then I got to the left side. The caliper bolts were not 65ft-lbs tight when I pulled them and I stripped the lower bolt hole during reassembly. I have a suspicion that it was already partially stripped and may be a blessing in disguise. It would've sucked loosing a bolt on a fast sweeper or something.
From the google search returns, I guess I'm also not the only one. It just sucks as that's my only car. Got my time sert ordered (thank the lord for amazon prime).
I totally forgot the original point of this thread! The rings were a perfect fit thanks to the people who pointed me in the right direction. Pads look good too.
Damn, so after putting in my time serts, and buttoning it up, I took it out. The shaking is still present. Much less intense though. But now, I can feel a rear end shake at 85+ mph. I couldn't tell if it was there prior; there was that much shake in the cabin then. I did not replace the rear rotors nor damping pads and have some really old eibach spacers on the car.
02-04-2017, 07:35 PM
