BHMav8r

Ordered the parts from my local $tealership.

Window switch right 997-613-156-05-A05-OEM $84 ($67 from Suncoast)
Microswitch on door handle 997-613-125-02-M100 $40 ($29 from Suncoast)
Door panel clip 955-555-243-00-M58 $1.40ea ($1.50 from Suncoast)
Door lock mechanism right 3D1-837-016-C-OEM $191 ($156 from Suncoast)

Pelican prices were in between $tealership $354 and Suncoast $260, most of it was the door lock mechanism, but they could be here tomorrow. Suncoast would be middle next week.
Freight and sales tax prolly a wash.

More to come

monster1

Internally the doors have a 'wet' side and a 'dry' side to them, separated by a steel membrane which seals against the doors inner frame with a sponge like rubber seal. This seal rots over time and eventually starts to let water by, which finds its way through into the 'dry' section of the door and is evidenced by the lower carpeted section of the door card getting wet after it rains or after you wash your car.

This problem reveals itself regularly here in the UK as its raining all the time! lol

The Porsche Main Dealer fix is to replace the complete steel membrane which has the rubber steel affixed to it - my fix and that of many others over here is to run a bead of silicone around the edge of the membrane. If you pop the door card off you can access the area you need to silicone. I did mine about 5 years ago and its been fine ever since.

Hope this helps!

BHMav8r

Rained a little last night and without the interior panel on the door I can see significant water along that seam and on the little valley in the seal.

Thanks for the heads up monster1. Good to know that silicone works well. Saves me the wait time and money for the seal.

Edit: Just got a call from thew $tealership. Parts are here - dayum - got here in less than 18 hours.

howiedoit

I have the same issue! I got my 2006 c4s cab a few weeks before the recent SoCal downpour. I noticed significant condensation on the windows a day or two after the rain and my passenger side carpet was soaked.

I took out the passenger seat and I've been airing out the carpet since then with a fan.

I checked the drains that go to the rear wheel wells, which seemed to be clear. I also checked the drains by the battery, which were clogged with gunk, so I assumed that was the problem.

However, after seeing this post, I just checked the area again and saw that the carpet on the bottom of my passenger door is wet too! So I guess I'm going to have to start taking apart my door too

BHMav8r, do you mind posting some pictures of your fix?

Macster

Had a wet door bottom with my Boxster a while back, maybe 2 years or so back. The tech resealed the membrane. It was good for well, maybe 2 years, then the door bottom was damp (more than damp) after a rain. The tech, a different tech, found the membrane had come loose. He resealed it but it didn't hold very well, the membrane was just too old. So when it leaked again he just replaced the membrane with a new one. Dampness/water along the door bottom gone.

Then when the other door started manifesting the same leak sign I just had the membrane replaced.

Door bottoms have remained dry ever since and that's a good thing because we have had a lot of rain this winter.

BHMav8r

I'll post some more pics from tomorrow.

My water was front passenger floor only, mostly towards the door. None in the back or under the seat. Still not 100% sure that water is coming from the door. Fixing the door will tell.

The inner panel seal looks like its just round rubber or tubing - which I can get at the local gasket supply house. Might just high temp RTV (silicone) this into the bottom 1//3 that keeps water in the door (that sounds counter intuitive) The remainder top part prolly just keeps out vapor. See what it looks like disassembled.

BHMav8r

Got everything installed. Window doesn't lower when the door is operated - hmmmmmm . . .
When you roll the window up it lowers itself about 4 inches.
Tried rolling it down, holding it for 10 seconds, rolling it up and 10 more seconds.
Have the batter disconnected to see if that's it.

BHMav8r

Remove the window motor, the interior latch cable, push the two grommets through the skin. Free the wires below the air bag so you will have enough play to pull the skin away from the door

BHMav8r

Push the window motor mounts through the skin, use pliers to squeeze the tabs. detach this white tab to release the cable behing - I don't think I re=attached this Anybody know if it important?
Drains in bottom of door

BHMav8r

Door handle and two nuts. Latch mechanism which unscrews from the outside. One stripped out and I had to go American on it.
The cable from the interior comes right off, rotate 90 degrees and it will come out the hole.
I could not figure out how to disassemble the connection from the exterior handle so I removed the latch and handle assemblies together.
If you are able to align the two so that there is no pressure here it might pull apart. However, there is a screw from the door handle that fits in a piece of threaded plastic that is threaded and only 2/3 of a long nut - slide the guard away from the screw and it will come out of the 1/3 opening. Genius. Once you understand it.
It is necessary to remove the door handle to replace the sensor.

BHMav8r

More pics of the door handle screw and the 2/3 nut with slide guard. Pic of the 2/3 nut with a screw driver in it.

BHMav8r

How the door handle sensor works. Hole where door handle goes. Has a plastic gasket/seat between the door and assembly. Mine was broken in two places. I just silicone it and re-used it.

Bruce In Philly

Dang good work, looking at this is giving me an anxiety attack.

Peace
Bruce in Philly

BHMav8r

Two nuts on that metal piece behind the door handle assembly and two bolts for the door latch assembly; two electrical connections - one for the door handle assly and one for the latch assly. Pretty straightforward.
Assembly is reverse, but - you have to do the door handle assly and the interior metal piece at the same time due to their size and geometry. Very awkward. I put a 2 inch piece of duct tape on the screw so that I could feed it through the interior metal piece.
Then install the latch assly but don't tighten the two bolts all the way. Allign the door handle assly screw and the latch assly 2/3 nut (prev pics) squeeze the screw into the 2/3 nut and slide the keeper down over it. Easy peezy.

Pic of the leaky seal. Which I liberally silicone.

BHMav8r

Be careful when you put the srews back that hold the inner skin to the door - that they are in the correct locations. I thought I was one short, but I put one in one of the holes for the interior panel and had to take the panel off again to move it.
This location is for the interior panel behind the interior door latch pull.