Change amplifier ASK by Bose system
11-02-2016, 12:26 PM
#31
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Very impressive. Finally someone who knows what they are talking about.
I am struggling with one design issue that it appears you solved by not hooking up the rear speakers. I there another mono/line out from that socket set for a sub signal?
I think I want a 5 channel amp (or 6?) to power the Fronts (dash+door), Rear (rear side) and the 5th to power my existing Bose sub (or 5/6 to power each of the two small sub speakers)...... The trick, is where to I get the signal for the sub channel? Hmmmmm
I can easily mod the Bose sub and wire directly to the speakers inside the enclosure. I know this sub is not the greatest but biggggg boooommmming base is not important to me... just some fill down there is fine. Or I just ditch it as I have 8" Focal drivers in the doors..... I am sure they will go low enough.
Peace
Bruce in Philly
I am struggling with one design issue that it appears you solved by not hooking up the rear speakers. I there another mono/line out from that socket set for a sub signal?
I think I want a 5 channel amp (or 6?) to power the Fronts (dash+door), Rear (rear side) and the 5th to power my existing Bose sub (or 5/6 to power each of the two small sub speakers)...... The trick, is where to I get the signal for the sub channel? Hmmmmm
I can easily mod the Bose sub and wire directly to the speakers inside the enclosure. I know this sub is not the greatest but biggggg boooommmming base is not important to me... just some fill down there is fine. Or I just ditch it as I have 8" Focal drivers in the doors..... I am sure they will go low enough.
Peace
Bruce in Philly
11-02-2016, 01:26 PM
#32
The PCM only has RF/LF RR/LR, no sub output. You will need a DSP to set the frequency boost, hi/lo filters and time delay for the front speakers and the sub.
If you keep the stock speakers, you will need to re-connect the wiring from the BOSE harness to your new amps. I would not recommend that. I put in new wiring and new speakers that can handle some decent power. I went with three Mosconi amps that fit nicely in the bottom of the frunk. A 120.4 to drive 120 watts each to the tweeters and the midranges. A 240.2 to drive 240 watts to each door woofer. A 240.2 bridged that put 680 watts to the sub. Nice clean and tight bass all around.
If you want to keep the rear speakers and the stock front speakers, you will need 7 channels from a new amp setup: 2 for the rears, 2 for the front combo of mid/tweet that are wired together, 2 for the door woofers, and 1 for the sub.
If you keep the stock speakers, you will need to re-connect the wiring from the BOSE harness to your new amps. I would not recommend that. I put in new wiring and new speakers that can handle some decent power. I went with three Mosconi amps that fit nicely in the bottom of the frunk. A 120.4 to drive 120 watts each to the tweeters and the midranges. A 240.2 to drive 240 watts to each door woofer. A 240.2 bridged that put 680 watts to the sub. Nice clean and tight bass all around.
If you want to keep the rear speakers and the stock front speakers, you will need 7 channels from a new amp setup: 2 for the rears, 2 for the front combo of mid/tweet that are wired together, 2 for the door woofers, and 1 for the sub.
11-04-2016, 04:36 AM
#33
Guys my BOSE burned up the. crapped out and I was told to go AVIC8000NEX and NavTv MOST-HUR and I'm back in the game? My BOSE enclosure stinks can I get another or is there a better alternative?