997 LED Side Markers - Details and Install
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
997 LED Side Markers - Details and Install
So a little background...I have installed LED (and HID when applicable) bulbs in every vehicle I have owned since 2008. I like the LED 5/6k look over halogens off-white/yellow-ish coloring, interior and exterior. Period. So if I can change a bulb, I am all for it. Some do not like the look, and I understand why...but I am not in that crowd.
After swapping out all lights in my 2012 GTS, I could NOT get any bulb to work in the side markers!!!
I tried 5 different "CANBUS" bulbs and would still get the error on the dash for side markers (potential reason why below).
I finally found (my; others have not had the same issue, so this may not be required for you) a solution: in-line resistors that back the power off by making the car think it is needing the required amount, but is reduced by the resistor, preventing errors and "hyper-flashing".
Install is very simple, and for me required the following:
- My hands
- 3M Electrical tape
- Silicone adhesive, used for electronic connection sealant
- Scissors to cut said tape
- In-line resistors ($10 part on Amazon, pic attached)
- LED bulbs: T10/921 of your choosing...
I went with 5K, 5-LED (360 degree; 4 sides and top) setup; I wanted the entire clear corner to fill with light
- 3M 2x sided tape (optional, I will explain later...)
There are multiple threads on here discussing how to remove the side markers. "Credit card" (not meant for this from what I found, but was showing) in the manual, as did screw drivers. I did not need either, and hopefully this helps. Others also posted the need for no tools to install/re-install.
Take the side marker, and push it towards the wheel. This will then depress the metal clip, which is holding it in via a section towards the fender/wheel. The side marker should then come out once it has cleared the front (towards bumper) section. There are some pics below that show the markers in various install stages. Then for re-install, you do the opposite. Slide the front section in, then with your finger depress the metal clip, then slowly push it back into place. I had popped mine off so many times that I thought my metal clips were shot, but I looked them up online and was able to bend them back to their original position. BUT something to keep in mind: these will take a beating. Not BE CAREFUL, obviously, but do know that I have had mine off 15+ times and they are perfectly tight now; the metal pin angle and connecting area are the key to these markers sitting tight (IMO).
Once you determine the polarity of the resistor harness and LED is proper, tape the stock harness and resistor together...you do not want that coming undone (pic attached). Then I used silicone adhesive to surround the entire rubber housing that holds the LED into the side marker. They fit nicely, but do not twist and set in like the OEM adapter, so I recommend sealing that (and I am in good weather and do not drive in the rain; this is mandatory in over 1/2 the country IMO). I let it set for a couple hours then good to go (24 hours was recommended for the silicone I used, so read what is recommended).
I fed my stock connector back and down into the area in front of the fender well. There were a couple lines running behind there (one was metal, others were rubber), but nothing exposed that I needed to worry about. It fit perfectly for me and literally fell into place, the socket also was provided a spot so it will not rattle around. This is where the 2-sided 3M tape can come into play (I did not need it, but it is recommended depending on how it sits for you)...securing the metal resistor to the fender well or inside lip of bumper are your options. You may want longer leads on your resistor harness FYI if you do want to mount your resistor; the one shown does not have excess wiring. Now again I did NOT have to do this as the area above the stock connector was such that the resistor floats in an area void of anything. I was worried about heat, so drove it for 45 minutes last night and immediately popped the side markers off. Just like I thought the heat was very minimal on the resistors. Between the airflow up front and this void I found, there was no need to secure my resistor. Up to you how your setup looks and adjust accordingly.
You are all done! Total install for me was 10 minutes, but I have experience taking these on and off. I will post another members link to bulbs he installed and does not receive any codes. I have a feeling that since I have changed EVERY bulb to LED now (even the glove box and rear deck-lid ) the system is not drawing nearly as much power as it is expecting to, and was taking it out on the only halogen bulbs left that come on upon unlock, turn and headlights on). My only thought...
Let me know if you have any questions...will be hardwiring my radar detector next so thank you all that posted pics of your installs, and if you have any tips/tricks/pics please share. Thanks!
After swapping out all lights in my 2012 GTS, I could NOT get any bulb to work in the side markers!!!
I tried 5 different "CANBUS" bulbs and would still get the error on the dash for side markers (potential reason why below).
I finally found (my; others have not had the same issue, so this may not be required for you) a solution: in-line resistors that back the power off by making the car think it is needing the required amount, but is reduced by the resistor, preventing errors and "hyper-flashing".
Install is very simple, and for me required the following:
- My hands
- 3M Electrical tape
- Silicone adhesive, used for electronic connection sealant
- Scissors to cut said tape
- In-line resistors ($10 part on Amazon, pic attached)
- LED bulbs: T10/921 of your choosing...
I went with 5K, 5-LED (360 degree; 4 sides and top) setup; I wanted the entire clear corner to fill with light
- 3M 2x sided tape (optional, I will explain later...)
There are multiple threads on here discussing how to remove the side markers. "Credit card" (not meant for this from what I found, but was showing) in the manual, as did screw drivers. I did not need either, and hopefully this helps. Others also posted the need for no tools to install/re-install.
Take the side marker, and push it towards the wheel. This will then depress the metal clip, which is holding it in via a section towards the fender/wheel. The side marker should then come out once it has cleared the front (towards bumper) section. There are some pics below that show the markers in various install stages. Then for re-install, you do the opposite. Slide the front section in, then with your finger depress the metal clip, then slowly push it back into place. I had popped mine off so many times that I thought my metal clips were shot, but I looked them up online and was able to bend them back to their original position. BUT something to keep in mind: these will take a beating. Not BE CAREFUL, obviously, but do know that I have had mine off 15+ times and they are perfectly tight now; the metal pin angle and connecting area are the key to these markers sitting tight (IMO).
Once you determine the polarity of the resistor harness and LED is proper, tape the stock harness and resistor together...you do not want that coming undone (pic attached). Then I used silicone adhesive to surround the entire rubber housing that holds the LED into the side marker. They fit nicely, but do not twist and set in like the OEM adapter, so I recommend sealing that (and I am in good weather and do not drive in the rain; this is mandatory in over 1/2 the country IMO). I let it set for a couple hours then good to go (24 hours was recommended for the silicone I used, so read what is recommended).
I fed my stock connector back and down into the area in front of the fender well. There were a couple lines running behind there (one was metal, others were rubber), but nothing exposed that I needed to worry about. It fit perfectly for me and literally fell into place, the socket also was provided a spot so it will not rattle around. This is where the 2-sided 3M tape can come into play (I did not need it, but it is recommended depending on how it sits for you)...securing the metal resistor to the fender well or inside lip of bumper are your options. You may want longer leads on your resistor harness FYI if you do want to mount your resistor; the one shown does not have excess wiring. Now again I did NOT have to do this as the area above the stock connector was such that the resistor floats in an area void of anything. I was worried about heat, so drove it for 45 minutes last night and immediately popped the side markers off. Just like I thought the heat was very minimal on the resistors. Between the airflow up front and this void I found, there was no need to secure my resistor. Up to you how your setup looks and adjust accordingly.
You are all done! Total install for me was 10 minutes, but I have experience taking these on and off. I will post another members link to bulbs he installed and does not receive any codes. I have a feeling that since I have changed EVERY bulb to LED now (even the glove box and rear deck-lid ) the system is not drawing nearly as much power as it is expecting to, and was taking it out on the only halogen bulbs left that come on upon unlock, turn and headlights on). My only thought...
Let me know if you have any questions...will be hardwiring my radar detector next so thank you all that posted pics of your installs, and if you have any tips/tricks/pics please share. Thanks!
#2
Track Day
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Edmonton Alberta
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I just ordered complete led interior lighting kit including plate leds from USP Motorsport http://www.uspmotorsports.com/Porsch...r-LED-Kit.html
Cant wait for them to arrive. Better lighting with maybe a power saving with the battery
Cant wait for them to arrive. Better lighting with maybe a power saving with the battery
#4
Rennlist Member
Great project and thanks for the write-up. I took the lazy approach for the side markers and used these - plug-n-play and no errors.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DEPO-2005-11...item23666cd26e
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DEPO-2005-11...item23666cd26e
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
I just ordered complete led interior lighting kit including plate leds from USP Motorsport http://www.uspmotorsports.com/Porsch...r-LED-Kit.html
Cant wait for them to arrive. Better lighting with maybe a power saving with the battery
Cant wait for them to arrive. Better lighting with maybe a power saving with the battery
Great project and thanks for the write-up. I took the lazy approach for the side markers and used these - plug-n-play and no errors.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DEPO-2005-11...item23666cd26e
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DEPO-2005-11...item23666cd26e
Anyone else do LED's in the front side markers? Please let us know if you were able to use CANBUS P-N-P bulbs and if you have other LED's installed
#7
Rennlist Member
Canbus plug and play here.. no other leds though. Maybe the side markers are on another circuit and it's looking at total load. So if you have other leds it goes below the threshold?
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#8
Racer
Thread Starter
I really think this is my issue...but it is just an educated guess based on the previous issues I have had in other vehicles. Will be interested to hear if those with full LED conversions can use CANBUS P-N-P bulbs in the side markers
#10
Racer
Thread Starter
#11
Rennlist Member
#12
Racer
Thread Starter
10-4...I did not click the link before as I thought they were for bulbs...but those are non-OEM side markers, right? And those came with the LED bulb(s) installed (it appears)? Those look cool...can you post a couple pics of them installed on your rig?