When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hello, I am new to the forum, and to a 2007 997.1 Turbo. I have had 18 Corvettes and a whole mess of other cars but I have to admit.. this 911 is the fastest and most performance oriented car ive ever driven!
So I've had a few issues since I've had the car but nothing a Porsche dealer hasn't been able to fix and nothing that wasn't normal routine maintenance for this particular car. So I'm told.
Moving forward I feel like I got her all dialed in and tonight when I went to open the door to get out of the car the doorhandle went "pop" and now the window doesn't go up and down "1/4 inch" when I open and close the door… Somethings wrong. Anyone know how to fix this or do I need to take her back into the dealer?
Thanks!
I found this too last night. Looks like it could be real helpful.
I wish I had more time to devote to the forum and turning a wrench on my car but I work 90 hours a week.
Not looking at the links, the "pop" sound means that the plastic mechanism that's part of the door handle release assembly inside the door has cracked and allowed the spring that returns the handle when you release it to no longer be under tension. You'll need to remove the interior door panel to replace that plastic tube that has the stops for the spring, all of which is part of the interior handle release assembly.
What I imagine you're seeing now without the window dropping is because the handle on the inside of your door is not being pulled tightly against the door spear. The silver handle you pull to open the door from the inside has a small little pin on the backside molded into it. This pin goes though a hole in the door spear to press a micrswitch. When pressed, it knows the handle has been released and closes the window. If you manually push on your handle that's not fully seated, the window should react normally. If so, your microswitches that control the window drop and raise are fine and will work fine again once you replace the broken piece inside the door mechanism. There are good DIYs on door panel removal and once you've donei it a couple times, can do it in probably 10 minutes. I'd recommend you have a few replacement door panel clips on hand as they sometimes break when pulling the panel off the door. The mechanism that needs the new part is attached to the back of the door panel and held on by 3 screws - you do no need to remove the inner door panel from the door, just the outer one. When reassembling things, I recommend you slide the silver door handle back onto the post before tightening the 3 screws that hold the assembly in place as the holes allow for fine adjustment to the position and angle. If you don't do this, when you go to install the handle as the last step, it may not alight correctly and you'll have to take everything apart again to adjust the handle assembly (ask me how i know).
Not looking at the links, the "pop" sound means that the plastic mechanism that's part of the door handle release assembly inside the door has cracked and allowed the spring that returns the handle when you release it to no longer be under tension. You'll need to remove the interior door panel to replace that plastic tube that has the stops for the spring, all of which is part of the interior handle release assembly.
What I imagine you're seeing now without the window dropping is because the handle on the inside of your door is not being pulled tightly against the door spear. The silver handle you pull to open the door from the inside has a small little pin on the backside molded into it. This pin goes though a hole in the door spear to press a micrswitch. When pressed, it knows the handle has been released and closes the window. If you manually push on your handle that's not fully seated, the window should react normally. If so, your microswitches that control the window drop and raise are fine and will work fine again once you replace the broken piece inside the door mechanism. There are good DIYs on door panel removal and once you've donei it a couple times, can do it in probably 10 minutes. I'd recommend you have a few replacement door panel clips on hand as they sometimes break when pulling the panel off the door. The mechanism that needs the new part is attached to the back of the door panel and held on by 3 screws - you do no need to remove the inner door panel from the door, just the outer one. When reassembling things, I recommend you slide the silver door handle back onto the post before tightening the 3 screws that hold the assembly in place as the holes allow for fine adjustment to the position and angle. If you don't do this, when you go to install the handle as the last step, it may not alight correctly and you'll have to take everything apart again to adjust the handle assembly (ask me how i know).
Good luck.
Wow, thanks man! That should help tremendously!!!! By the way, 914 is one of my lucky numbers... Go figure!
Wow, thanks man! That should help tremendously!!!! By the way, 914 is one of my lucky numbers... Go figure!
Cheers,
Jake
You'll also find info that says in order to repair the old mechanism that you have to replace the complete thing, including the cable to the exterior door handle. You don't. I've done 2 of these repairs in both my 997s and you can replace just the broken piece, simplifying the job significantly.
This happened to me today, and since I wasn't super slammed with work, I went ahead and pulled things apart to figure out which part(s) to order.
The actual piece that breaks is identical between the driver and passenger door, but used up-side-down. That means that the tab that breaks is not used on the opposite side of the door. Getting the spring back into place is a bit of pain, but no harder than popping the forward bit of leather covered trim off the arm rest to get the door panel out.
It looks like the entire assembly is less than $25, so this isn't really a money saving tip as much as it's nice to know that this can be sorter (once) without waiting for parts.
I haven't decided whether or not to grab a spare, but I probably will. -- Related: Are there any other spares like this that it might make sense to keep on hand?
Edit: Here's a picture of the part that needs to be swapped, including the tab that broke off on the other one:
Honestly, I'm surprised that it lasted as long as it did.
This just broke on my ‘09. It lasted 76k miles. If I ordered a spare, I’m sure I’d never use it. Easy and cheap fix. It’s actually the first part that has actually broken on my car. Anything else I’ve replaced has been a wear item.
When reassembling things, I recommend you slide the silver door handle back onto the post before tightening the 3 screws that hold the assembly in place as the holes allow for fine adjustment to the position and angle. If you don't do this, when you go to install the handle as the last step, it may not alight correctly and you'll have to take everything apart again to adjust the handle assembly (ask me how i know).
I did this a few months ago and Pete's advice here is spot on.
A couple other tips:
1. If you buy the part from Porsche they will supply a new cable as well. You do NOT want/need to replace that. Its a pain.
2. That being said, this part# has been updated and connection point where the cable slides into the arm has been redesigned. To make the old cable work with the new arm you need to remove the round plastic bushing off the end of the cable and then slide it it. You'll get it when you see it. Or send me a pic and I can explain. It confused me for a few minutes as it wasn't well documented.
3. Putting the door panel back on is the worst part. Make sure you buy a handful of spare clips as they can break when removing the panel. You MUST reset all the clips before reattaching the panel. If they are not properly reset the panel will be loose.
I did this a few months ago and Pete's advice here is spot on.
A couple other tips:
1. If you buy the part from Porsche they will supply a new cable as well. You do NOT want/need to replace that. Its a pain.
2. That being said, this part# has been updated and connection point where the cable slides into the arm has been redesigned. To make the old cable work with the new arm you need to remove the round plastic bushing off the end of the cable and then slide it it. You'll get it when you see it. Or send me a pic and I can explain. It confused me for a few minutes as it wasn't well documented.
3. Putting the door panel back on is the worst part. Make sure you buy a handful of spare clips as they can break when removing the panel. You MUST reset all the clips before reattaching the panel. If they are not properly reset the panel will be loose.
Good luck.
This in spades. I bought my car with it broken and had the part waiting in my garage. Luckly I had a few extra spare clips and a decent plastic pry-fork. Like Pietza said, you dont have to all crazy and replace the whole lot, Just take apart the old one, toss the broken half and use the new one. Hardest part was re springing the spring.
I did this a few months ago and Pete's advice here is spot on.
1. If you buy the part from Porsche they will supply a new cable as well. You do NOT want/need to replace that. Its a pain.
2. That being said, this part# has been updated and connection point where the cable slides into the arm has been redesigned. To make the old cable work with the new arm you need to remove the round plastic bushing off the end of the cable and then slide it it. You'll get it when you see it. Or send me a pic and I can explain. It confused me for a few minutes as it wasn't well documented.
Here's a photo of how the old style cable (with the little black plastic bushing removed) fits into the new style door pivot. I found it easier to just replace the whole entire part (minus the cable) as getting the spring back in place is a big PITA and may end up breaking the piece. Ignore the placement of the little white plastic tab in this photo, it's not pushed all the way in.
Does anybody know the part number for the part that breaks (see photo in Post #7, above) leaving the interior door release handle (floppy) not retracting back to the normal position against the door?
My best guess is in PET Illustration 807-010, Item #10 Axle Bearing 997 555 381 02 (left). What I'm finding on Pelican Parts shows it as 997 537 319 03 (left). I'm confused.
06-13-2016, 03:11 AM
997.1 interior door handle went "pop" ......?
