5th gear crunch. Cable adjustment issue?
#1
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Hey all,
I've had my 2006 C2S for a month or so. It's my 2nd one, so I'm familiar with the car. Shifting has been smooth all around, except for some notchiness going only into 5th. No issues anywhere else, just 5th and its a very brief 'crunch'. 6th is fine as are all other gears.
I drained the trans and replaced with PTX, hoping it would help. The issue remains. It's not awful, but I don't know how to diagnose it further.
My car has the oem short shift and the cables were replaced by the previous owner at 27,000 miles. I'm at 34,000 now. Could it be a cable adjustment issue? Seems odd that it's only 5th.
Any advice?
Thanks!
I've had my 2006 C2S for a month or so. It's my 2nd one, so I'm familiar with the car. Shifting has been smooth all around, except for some notchiness going only into 5th. No issues anywhere else, just 5th and its a very brief 'crunch'. 6th is fine as are all other gears.
I drained the trans and replaced with PTX, hoping it would help. The issue remains. It's not awful, but I don't know how to diagnose it further.
My car has the oem short shift and the cables were replaced by the previous owner at 27,000 miles. I'm at 34,000 now. Could it be a cable adjustment issue? Seems odd that it's only 5th.
Any advice?
Thanks!
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#2
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For 5th, it could be a cable problem. If the cable does not have enough travel to allow the transmission to engage fully, then it may cause a problem. I don't think it can happen on its own though.
You can check that yourself if you can safely lift the car. Select each gear and check under the car (at the transmission end) to make sure that when in gear, there is still a bit of travel left for both cables.
You can check that yourself if you can safely lift the car. Select each gear and check under the car (at the transmission end) to make sure that when in gear, there is still a bit of travel left for both cables.
#3
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Thanks for this pointer. So, if there isn't slack, I simply adjust it manually? I inspected the cables when I R/R'ed the trans fluid, but I didn't know what I was looking for.
Thx!
Thx!
#4
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maybe barking up wrong tree. read this thread, great posts by Bruce In Philly, esp post #6 and 9.
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...or-my-c2s.html
includes this nugget, "Biggest misconception about shifters including the cable adjustment under them, regardless of brand, is that they are responsible in some way for shifting performance such as notchyness or grinding. They are not. They are a floppy system... there are no detents, springs, or anything. The cable adjustment is merely to stand the shifter up straight in neutral. The cables are slack when in position and put no pressures on the transmission until moving position."
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...or-my-c2s.html
includes this nugget, "Biggest misconception about shifters including the cable adjustment under them, regardless of brand, is that they are responsible in some way for shifting performance such as notchyness or grinding. They are not. They are a floppy system... there are no detents, springs, or anything. The cable adjustment is merely to stand the shifter up straight in neutral. The cables are slack when in position and put no pressures on the transmission until moving position."
#5
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Yes, you adjust it manually. The transmission basically has 2 levers. One to slide the fork back/forth (e.g. to select 1st or 2nd), the other to select the group (the groups being R, 1-2, 3-4, 5-6). These levers have certain range of motion. What you'll be looking for is to see if the range of motion is impacted by the cables.
Each cable has 2 anchor points used to attach the cable to the chassy - one at transm side, one at shifter side (see http://numericracing.com/store/#!/Pe...egory=12247277). You can adjust the length of the cable to make sure that there is enough range of motion so that the heads at the ends of the cable don't slam against the anchor points. On the numeric cables above, you can do so at both ends. on the OEM cables, you can only do so at the shifter end.
This is normally done once when you replace the cables btw so I think it is unlikely that the cables are causing the problem. I don't think it's possible for the range of motion to get impacted unless the cables have snapped somehow, but that will also impact other gears. It is a quick check though (if you can lift the car safely) so maybe worth looking into.
Good luck and keep us posted!
Each cable has 2 anchor points used to attach the cable to the chassy - one at transm side, one at shifter side (see http://numericracing.com/store/#!/Pe...egory=12247277). You can adjust the length of the cable to make sure that there is enough range of motion so that the heads at the ends of the cable don't slam against the anchor points. On the numeric cables above, you can do so at both ends. on the OEM cables, you can only do so at the shifter end.
This is normally done once when you replace the cables btw so I think it is unlikely that the cables are causing the problem. I don't think it's possible for the range of motion to get impacted unless the cables have snapped somehow, but that will also impact other gears. It is a quick check though (if you can lift the car safely) so maybe worth looking into.
Good luck and keep us posted!
#6
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maybe barking up wrong tree. read this thread, great posts by Bruce In Philly, esp post #6 and 9.
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...or-my-c2s.html
includes this nugget, "Biggest misconception about shifters including the cable adjustment under them, regardless of brand, is that they are responsible in some way for shifting performance such as notchyness or grinding. They are not. They are a floppy system... there are no detents, springs, or anything. The cable adjustment is merely to stand the shifter up straight in neutral. The cables are slack when in position and put no pressures on the transmission until moving position."
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...or-my-c2s.html
includes this nugget, "Biggest misconception about shifters including the cable adjustment under them, regardless of brand, is that they are responsible in some way for shifting performance such as notchyness or grinding. They are not. They are a floppy system... there are no detents, springs, or anything. The cable adjustment is merely to stand the shifter up straight in neutral. The cables are slack when in position and put no pressures on the transmission until moving position."
#7
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Thanks guys, great info. I'm assuming this is what to check 1st? Is there any other cause that I can check for?
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#8
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A common issue is that the cables pop out of the retaining clips that hold them in the correct position, near the transmission. Once you're under there, you'll see what I'm talking about. If one or both have popped out, put them back where they go and secure them there with a couple of wire tied. I think the way I did this was to create an X pattern with the wire tires around the holding bracket or to put one around the cable itself and then tie through this one going around the bracket (sorry, but it's been s couple years since I did this preventative "upgrade").
#9
RL Community Team
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I don't think adjusting cables will have any effect at all unless something is truly amiss such something popping out from where it should be. If your cables are "out of adjustment", then you will see the shifter not straight up when in neutral.... 'cause that is all the adjustment does and no effect on shift performance or "grear crunching".
Your gear problem sounds like a real problem. If it were me, I would send an email or two out to one of the advertised Porsche transmission specialists out there with a description of your issue. They may be able to help.
When you changed your fluid, was there any gunk or slivers on the top of the drain bolt? It should be gunk/varnish/sparkle free. Mine was at 86K miles when I changed my fluid.
Keep us posted.
Peace
Bruce in Philly
Your gear problem sounds like a real problem. If it were me, I would send an email or two out to one of the advertised Porsche transmission specialists out there with a description of your issue. They may be able to help.
When you changed your fluid, was there any gunk or slivers on the top of the drain bolt? It should be gunk/varnish/sparkle free. Mine was at 86K miles when I changed my fluid.
Keep us posted.
Peace
Bruce in Philly
#10
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Thx Guys. The issue seems to resolve after the car warms up a bit. I'll inspect the cables and see where to go from there.
#11