Originally Posted by Petza914

In order to do any type of forced induction and have it be reliable and durable, I believe you need to lower the compression ratio of the engine. 997 Turbo engines are around 9.0:1 and the NA engines are around 11.8:1. You also need to be able to meter the air and capture the temperature after it's been compressed so that you can manage the engine. I know how RUF does all of this in my car (different head gaskets to lower compression, a DME from a TT car to manage air/fuel, spark, detonation, timing, etc, a totally different intake setup with temp sensors where those are connected to the DME instead of the temp sensor built into the normal MAF, completely different MAF - non Porsche fitment in-fact), but I don't know how the other guys manage it on their kits. If they can provide you answers to these critical aspects, then maybe they're worth looking into - if not, I would avoid them. Attached is a PDF that shows the guts of my RUF kit - any part on the engine shown in a color is different from the stock part. I have 0 supercharger belt dust so there's not any slippage occuring with this setup and routing. I'm also getting ready to install a PLX multi-function gauge so I can see boost, AFR, and other parameters to make sure everything stays looking and running right.

Honestly, your best course of action is to sell what you have, buy a Turbo and convert it to rear wheel drive only. None of the aftermarket kits you're looking into are going to add value to the car, they're very difficult to sell second hand if you ever want to return to stock, and you may completely destroy your engine if the kit isn't fully developed and thoroughly tested. I was very lucky in finding the car I did, but was going to go the TT route when it popped up.

Just my 5 cents worth but let us know what you decide to do and how it works out. Taking on another 100 HP sure changes the driving dynamics of the car.

Originally Posted by mickfluff

Pete is that the engine bay of your RUF? Looks like you swapped out the RUF air box for a different style air box? Just curious as to why? saw you were looking for the werks1 air box a while back as well.

Originally Posted by Petza914

Yes, that's the engine bay of the RUF. RUF airbox was the stock airbox with a RUF badge over the oil filler neck slot and holes drilled into the bottom. With the full Fabspeed exhaust, I was able to make more power and get better throttle response by going to this Fabspeed J-Pipe intake. The RUF CF rear decklid has slots all the way across so plenty of fresh (cold) air circulating in the engine bay for the intake to draw in and the CF heat shield to trap warm air in the front with the intake drawing from the back.

I did look into the Charmpion airbox to try and achieve a ram air effect, and actually found one available for sale. Luckily the guy was local so we were able to see if it would fit, but with the compressor pulley there was just no way to make it work. I also experimented with the newer Fabspeed Y-Pipe but the car did not run as well with it. Not sure if it drew in so much air that the fuel metering couldn't compensate enough to create the correct stochiometric ratio or if the air coming in was more turbulent, but this seems to be the best combined setup so I'm sticking with it.