DIY 997.1 base brake pad replacement
12-09-2015, 01:17 AM
#1
DIY 997.1 base brake pad replacement
Hi Folks,
I just replaced the brake pads on my 997.1 base. It took me about 3.5 hours and was the first time I've done brakes on a car. I've done oil changes, spark plugs and other maintenance/upgrades on my 911 and other cars but this was the first time for brakes.
There are lots of tutorials out there so I won't repeat them but there are some things I learned while doing this that I haven't seen elsewhere and might be helpful to others.
The best DIY pages I found are:
http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutor...-instructions/
You might need to login to view this page.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...Brake_Pads.htm
I purchased everything except the brake pad sensors from Suncoast since they had the best OEM prices, part numbers that matched the parts list from my mechanic *and* special Thanksgiving weekend free shipping! Yay! I got the brake pad sensors from Pelican Parts since they had non-OEM parts for much less than the OEM versions.
My biggest question was the shims/dampers. I didn’t find a good explanation of what to do until I found the first of the above links. It made me feel better but it turns out it’s pretty simple.
The rear brakes use round shims - 4 for the left side and 4 for the right. There are two sizes differentiated by the diameter of the center press-to-fit piece. The actual diameter of the shim is the same. It’s just the center piece that is different - you’ll be able to tell just by looking at them. One of each size shim is used on each side of the caliper.
The shims have a sticky-back that eventually gets pressed into the back of the pad but you can’t get them in that way. Instead, press the shim into the caliper piston first and then put the pad in. I pressed the shim into the piston with a combination of my fingers and the needle-nose pliers.
On the rears, I took the paper covering the sticky-back off first, pressed them into place and then put the pad in. This isn’t the best way. Instead, leave the paper on, press the shim in place and take the sticky-paper off with a pocket-knife - then put the pad in.
On the old pads the shims will be stuck to the back. You need to remove the shim before you can get the pad out. I’ve read that you can use a putty knife to lift the shim off the pad - it’s actually pretty easy. I used a pocket-knife instead and that worked fine. Once you take the old ones off you'll see how it all works and how easy it is.
The fronts also have a shim/damper with a sticky back. This shim is easier to get on since it’s just one piece and fits only one way.
The other question I had was the brake sensors. You just need to thread the sensor the same way as the one you are replacing. It took me a minute to see how to attach the other end to the harness. There’s a clip holding two connectors tight into the female harness - one is the brake sensor and the other is something else. ABS sensor? Anyway, spread the two raised ends of the clip underneath these two connectors a tiny bit and then lift the clip up. Pull the brake sensor connector out and thread the new one.
The rear shims from Suncoast are sold as one part number:
4X99635208600AND4X99635208602
Four of each size.
The fronts are
99635108802
The next time it’ll take me much less time. One of the posts I read said that the first time you do this you'll be wondering if you're doing it right. After that you'll know. This is 100% true - it's pretty easy.
Next time I'll probably need rotors - I'm not sure if I'm brave enough to do that myself.
T.
I just replaced the brake pads on my 997.1 base. It took me about 3.5 hours and was the first time I've done brakes on a car. I've done oil changes, spark plugs and other maintenance/upgrades on my 911 and other cars but this was the first time for brakes.
There are lots of tutorials out there so I won't repeat them but there are some things I learned while doing this that I haven't seen elsewhere and might be helpful to others.
The best DIY pages I found are:
http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutor...-instructions/
You might need to login to view this page.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...Brake_Pads.htm
I purchased everything except the brake pad sensors from Suncoast since they had the best OEM prices, part numbers that matched the parts list from my mechanic *and* special Thanksgiving weekend free shipping! Yay! I got the brake pad sensors from Pelican Parts since they had non-OEM parts for much less than the OEM versions.
My biggest question was the shims/dampers. I didn’t find a good explanation of what to do until I found the first of the above links. It made me feel better but it turns out it’s pretty simple.
The rear brakes use round shims - 4 for the left side and 4 for the right. There are two sizes differentiated by the diameter of the center press-to-fit piece. The actual diameter of the shim is the same. It’s just the center piece that is different - you’ll be able to tell just by looking at them. One of each size shim is used on each side of the caliper.
The shims have a sticky-back that eventually gets pressed into the back of the pad but you can’t get them in that way. Instead, press the shim into the caliper piston first and then put the pad in. I pressed the shim into the piston with a combination of my fingers and the needle-nose pliers.
On the rears, I took the paper covering the sticky-back off first, pressed them into place and then put the pad in. This isn’t the best way. Instead, leave the paper on, press the shim in place and take the sticky-paper off with a pocket-knife - then put the pad in.
On the old pads the shims will be stuck to the back. You need to remove the shim before you can get the pad out. I’ve read that you can use a putty knife to lift the shim off the pad - it’s actually pretty easy. I used a pocket-knife instead and that worked fine. Once you take the old ones off you'll see how it all works and how easy it is.
The fronts also have a shim/damper with a sticky back. This shim is easier to get on since it’s just one piece and fits only one way.
The other question I had was the brake sensors. You just need to thread the sensor the same way as the one you are replacing. It took me a minute to see how to attach the other end to the harness. There’s a clip holding two connectors tight into the female harness - one is the brake sensor and the other is something else. ABS sensor? Anyway, spread the two raised ends of the clip underneath these two connectors a tiny bit and then lift the clip up. Pull the brake sensor connector out and thread the new one.
The rear shims from Suncoast are sold as one part number:
4X99635208600AND4X99635208602
Four of each size.
The fronts are
99635108802
The next time it’ll take me much less time. One of the posts I read said that the first time you do this you'll be wondering if you're doing it right. After that you'll know. This is 100% true - it's pretty easy.
Next time I'll probably need rotors - I'm not sure if I'm brave enough to do that myself.
T.
12-09-2015, 03:19 AM
#2
Changing rotors is easy! Move calipers and they pop right off. Use whatever rotors you like, just have them cryo'd first, they will last longer and respond better, especially under hard braking.
Now if you want a real project, remove the pistons and replace the seals. Depending on age and use, maintenance and brake fluid, you may or may not notice improved braking feel. But as they get around 10-20 years (less if subjected to high heat at the track) its a good thing to do.
Now if you want a real project, remove the pistons and replace the seals. Depending on age and use, maintenance and brake fluid, you may or may not notice improved braking feel. But as they get around 10-20 years (less if subjected to high heat at the track) its a good thing to do.
12-09-2015, 06:50 AM
#3
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Having recently done the front rotors on my 2005 C2, I can attest they are straightforward to change.
It was a matter of preparation (new set screws, torque wrench and an E55 (I think?) torx bit for the new caliper set screws - the old ones were regular hex). Having read the Pelican guide and viewed a couple of vids, I was expecting the rotor screws to be seized solid, but I was pleasantly surprised that they came straight out freely and could be re-used.
It was a good opportunity to clean the uprights, suspension arms and around the wheel well, which doubled the time taken, but reduced several grams in small pebbles from the unsprung weight
It was a matter of preparation (new set screws, torque wrench and an E55 (I think?) torx bit for the new caliper set screws - the old ones were regular hex). Having read the Pelican guide and viewed a couple of vids, I was expecting the rotor screws to be seized solid, but I was pleasantly surprised that they came straight out freely and could be re-used.
It was a good opportunity to clean the uprights, suspension arms and around the wheel well, which doubled the time taken, but reduced several grams in small pebbles from the unsprung weight
12-09-2015, 11:39 PM
#4
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I re-used all of my shims. I soaked them in some solvent which cleaned them up and removed all the sticky stuff. A little scraping got it all off. Then I sprayed 3M sticky spray on them where the former sticky surface was. Good as new. Those things are pretty expensive and they don't wear out so they can be re-used.
