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Brake Pad Wear: Don't Wait for Sensor

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Old 03-13-2015, 12:00 AM
  #16  
Luxter
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Originally Posted by semicycler
Not exactly true. They can be done, it just takes more time to do them properly with multiple passes taking very little material off each time. Most generic auto parts stores will not machine cross drilled rotors claiming they cannot be done. The reality is it takes too long for them to make money - it's a better deal for them to sell you new rotors.

I had my done by a local mom & pop shop, well within thickness/flatness spec too. The national chains wouldn't touch them though.
I beg to disagree and my background is machining. It's not about multiple passes but the vibrations every time cutting edge passes through metal-hole-metal again. On paper it looks good. In reality you'll never get the perfect surface.
Get new rotors. And pads. Don't be cheap.
YMMV of course.
=L=
Old 03-13-2015, 10:02 AM
  #17  
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I had cross drilled rotors on my truck. The dealer machined them. They took off too much. (Crossed drilled rotors at the time for a domestic manufacturer was almost unheard of)
The cross drilled holes now looked like a cheese grater. The new pads that were installed lasted 300 kms. Pad backing plate pressing on the rotor, 2 hours from civilization. Boiling molten metal on metal dripping onto my fancy wheel barrel. It was an interesting drive home.
Old 03-13-2015, 10:20 AM
  #18  
semicycler
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Respectfully, like oil threads there are many opinions on this topic. Here are a few of those opinions that support resurfacing drilled/slotted rotors.

1. Pro-Cut rotor machines: http://procutusa.com/lathes.aspx

Shallow cuts less than .003", either one side at a time or both sides together depending upon opposed holes, non-opposed holes, slots or dimples: http://procutusa.com/pdf/S-9Drilled_slottedrotors.pdf


2. DBA (Disc Brakes Austrailia) http://www.dba.com.au/machining-rotors/

Use the slowest feed rate and take the smallest cut. DO NOT take 1 cut to clean up the disc and then a fine finishing cut as you will damage both the disc rotor and your tool tips. If you need to take 5 or so fine cut passes

http://www.dba.com.au/wp-content/upl...ss-Drilled.pdf


3. Raybestos Brake Technical Bulletin BPI 03-05 Resurfacing Drilled and Slotted Performance Rotors

Shallow cuts less than .004" each pass

http://www.raybestosbrakes.com/magno...-09rev6-06.pdf


Replacing rotors is ideal of course and expensive. But there are many times when resurfacing is a completely viable and cost effective alternative, regardless of drilled holes or slots on the rotors. Some will even argue that replacement/resurfacing with each pad change is not always necessary either. It all depends upon the condition of the rotors during pad replacement.
Old 03-27-2015, 10:21 AM
  #19  
JD911S
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Originally Posted by Macster
Only one pad (per wheel) has a wear sensor fitted. If pad wear is asymmetrical (and it can be) the pad without the wear sensor can wear faster and it is possible for the backing plate of the pad without the sensor and with the accelerated wear to contact the rotor.

Of course the noise arising from this would be as good or better than a warning light on the dash.

Nominally the sensor goes off when there is roughly 3/16" (0.187") of pad material left.
Just changed mine yesterday and it has 1 wear sensor per pad not wheel.
Old 03-27-2015, 03:59 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Macster
Only one pad (per wheel) has a wear sensor fitted. If pad wear is asymmetrical (and it can be) the pad without the wear sensor can wear faster and it is possible for the backing plate of the pad without the sensor and with the accelerated wear to contact the rotor.

Of course the noise arising from this would be as good or better than a warning light on the dash.

Nominally the sensor goes off when there is roughly 3/16" (0.187") of pad material left.
Originally Posted by JD911S
Just changed mine yesterday and it has 1 wear sensor per pad not wheel.
I was wondering about Macster's comment, too. I have a 997.2 and I have two sensors per wheel; one on the inside pad and one on the outside pad. But I thought maybe the 997.1 cars might be different.

JD, is your car a 997.1?
Old 03-27-2015, 04:18 PM
  #21  
Bruce In Philly
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Originally Posted by gota911
I was wondering about Macster's comment, too. I have a 997.2 and I have two sensors per wheel; one on the inside pad and one on the outside pad. But I thought maybe the 997.1 cars might be different.

JD, is your car a 997.1?
All, at least front, were single cable, dual sensor since 2000.

Here is a link for the 2009 997.2 S sensor... note it is one cable with two sensors:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._pg2.htm#item9

Here is a link for a 2000 S sensor... same single cable with two sensors:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...pg3.htm#item11

Peace
Bruce in Philly
Old 03-27-2015, 04:53 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Bruce In Philly
All, at least front, were single cable, dual sensor since 2000.

Here is a link for the 2009 997.2 S sensor... note it is one cable with two sensors:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._pg2.htm#item9

Here is a link for a 2000 S sensor... same single cable with two sensors:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...pg3.htm#item11

Peace
Bruce in Philly
That's what I thought, but Macster's comment made me wonder.

On the other hand, it's nice to know that Macster is human after all.



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