Need some advice/help about a brake issue
#16
Newbies Hospitality Director
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Winston-Salem, NC
Posts: 18,084
Likes: 0
Received 34 Likes
on
33 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Based on the scoring I would attribute the extra brake dust on the right side arises from differences in the two front rotors. The right rotor is probably softer than the left rotor. Add in the fact the right side is going to be the dirtier side...
With my Boxster I have over the years noticed some brake rotor/pad combinations generate more dust than others. (The current brake hardware is a really dusty combo. The front wheels are almost perpetually black from brake dust.) Also, brake hardware life varies, too. I attribute this to differences in rotor material hardness with possibly pad hardness or composition differences contributing. Not every set of rotors and pads are from the same OEM even though I buy the brake hardware from the Porsche dealer (but not always the same dealer).
In the case of your car it could be it somehow ended up with two dissimilar rotors.
Assuming they were both replaced at the same time, one explanation is whoever pulled rotors off the parts shelf just happened to get two rotors from two different OEMs. Rare but it can happen.
If you are that bothered by the dust difference you could I guess elect to replace the rotors and pads this time making sure the rotors are the same as are the pads.
With my Boxster I have over the years noticed some brake rotor/pad combinations generate more dust than others. (The current brake hardware is a really dusty combo. The front wheels are almost perpetually black from brake dust.) Also, brake hardware life varies, too. I attribute this to differences in rotor material hardness with possibly pad hardness or composition differences contributing. Not every set of rotors and pads are from the same OEM even though I buy the brake hardware from the Porsche dealer (but not always the same dealer).
In the case of your car it could be it somehow ended up with two dissimilar rotors.
Assuming they were both replaced at the same time, one explanation is whoever pulled rotors off the parts shelf just happened to get two rotors from two different OEMs. Rare but it can happen.
If you are that bothered by the dust difference you could I guess elect to replace the rotors and pads this time making sure the rotors are the same as are the pads.
I bought the one year old CPO car with 2,945 miles on it from a Porsche dealer. I believe my rotors are the original factory rotors and have not reason to think otherwise.
However, I think you make a good point about the potential of a "softer" rotor on the right side. The right front rotor does have a slightly larger lip on it than the left front rotor has.
The excess amount of brake dust on only one wheel does bother me a decent amount, hence this thread. If I am going to do a thorough inspection of the pads and rotors, I might as well change to rotors "while I am in there."
My Hawk Performance Ceramic Pads have about 11,000 miles of use on them. If I change the rotors, would you also changing the pads? The excess brake dust on the right wheel was also present when the original OEM pads were on the car, but much worse, as would be expected with the OEM pads.
#17
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
This is a wild guess but consider this. You have radiator fans on both sides that exhaust into the wheel well. When they cycle on it could, not saying that it does, blow brake dust on to the wheel. What if your left one is not working and the result is less dust on left compared to right.
#18
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I totally get the "I can't do this to my DD as I could strand myself" - maybe rent a car for a weekend and do it so you'll have a back-up. Be sure you don't run the resevoir dry or you'll likely need a Durametric to actuate the ABS pumps to get all the air back out of the lines - ask me how I know :-/
If you do decide to change out the rotors, we put a set of 2-piece dba 5000 series slotted rotors on my wife's 997.1 C2S that have been great. The other advantage to piece with the aluminum hats, aside from the lighter weight, is that you eliminate the ugly rusty rotor hub and vanes issue when the wimpy silver coating wears off on the Zimmerman's or Sebro rotors.
Here's a photo from when I installed them as she was repainting her big red calipers white to better go with her pink pearl 911. Brakes are spotless - car is filthy in the photos - sorry. Also had heat resistant vinyl decals made in her girly font to tie it all together. Not everyone's cup of tea, but she loves it, which is really all that matters. I have the PCCBs on mine so don't really have any dust or rust issues to deal with, which is almost worth the price of admission by itself.
Rotors came from www.TopBrakes.com (http://topbrakes.com/c/car-series/44...cast+iron+disc) as a front left & right pair for a special price which was about double OEM replacements, but from here we can just replace the discs themselves, reusing the hats, which will make it less expensive in the future. They make a 1-piece 4000 series too, but with the special pricing on the 5000 series, oddly, those are less expensive. They also have the black e-coat for the center so the vanes don't rust over time either, and as a plus have temperature paint lines so if you track the car or drive it spiritedly, you can see the rotor temperature by looking at the paint lines.
I don't know if the gen 2 cars use the same size rotor with the same offset or not, so check into that prior if you're going to go that route. I have the Hawk HPS pads paired with these and they're a good combo between braking power and low dust. I would do new pads if you do the new rotors just so they bed in together properly. The other advantage to slotted over drilled or drilled & slotted is that you still get very good wet weather performance, but don't get the hairline cracks around the holes if you use them for some track days - the rotors without the holes are more stable and provide a better heat sink since there's more material.
Keep us posted on what you decide to do and the results.
If you do decide to change out the rotors, we put a set of 2-piece dba 5000 series slotted rotors on my wife's 997.1 C2S that have been great. The other advantage to piece with the aluminum hats, aside from the lighter weight, is that you eliminate the ugly rusty rotor hub and vanes issue when the wimpy silver coating wears off on the Zimmerman's or Sebro rotors.
Here's a photo from when I installed them as she was repainting her big red calipers white to better go with her pink pearl 911. Brakes are spotless - car is filthy in the photos - sorry. Also had heat resistant vinyl decals made in her girly font to tie it all together. Not everyone's cup of tea, but she loves it, which is really all that matters. I have the PCCBs on mine so don't really have any dust or rust issues to deal with, which is almost worth the price of admission by itself.
Rotors came from www.TopBrakes.com (http://topbrakes.com/c/car-series/44...cast+iron+disc) as a front left & right pair for a special price which was about double OEM replacements, but from here we can just replace the discs themselves, reusing the hats, which will make it less expensive in the future. They make a 1-piece 4000 series too, but with the special pricing on the 5000 series, oddly, those are less expensive. They also have the black e-coat for the center so the vanes don't rust over time either, and as a plus have temperature paint lines so if you track the car or drive it spiritedly, you can see the rotor temperature by looking at the paint lines.
I don't know if the gen 2 cars use the same size rotor with the same offset or not, so check into that prior if you're going to go that route. I have the Hawk HPS pads paired with these and they're a good combo between braking power and low dust. I would do new pads if you do the new rotors just so they bed in together properly. The other advantage to slotted over drilled or drilled & slotted is that you still get very good wet weather performance, but don't get the hairline cracks around the holes if you use them for some track days - the rotors without the holes are more stable and provide a better heat sink since there's more material.
Keep us posted on what you decide to do and the results.
#19
Newbies Hospitality Director
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Winston-Salem, NC
Posts: 18,084
Likes: 0
Received 34 Likes
on
33 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
All of this is good info guys! Too many variables, so many possible causes. Nothing is ever simple, especially on a Porsche.
I'll see if anyone else chimes in with any other ideas to make it even more complicated!
I'll see if anyone else chimes in with any other ideas to make it even more complicated!
![banghead](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/banghead.gif)
![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
#20
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I read most of thread, but maybe missed a critical part.... Lets recap and start from scratch...
You only are suspicious of a problem because of more brake dust on one side vs the other?
The caliper on the "dirty side" was replaced? If i read correctly your dealer replaced the caliper that was creating more pad dust? If you have a caliper issue, your dealer may have replaced the wrong one...
Are experiencing any driving issues?
Does the car pull to the right under hard braking?
Cheers
You only are suspicious of a problem because of more brake dust on one side vs the other?
The caliper on the "dirty side" was replaced? If i read correctly your dealer replaced the caliper that was creating more pad dust? If you have a caliper issue, your dealer may have replaced the wrong one...
Are experiencing any driving issues?
Does the car pull to the right under hard braking?
Cheers
#21
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks for taking the time to write the above. I really do appreciate this and all of the comments and questions from other Rennlisters..
The disks have 60,300 miles on them. I have noticed that the right front is a little more scored than the left front disk.
I should be able to do the inspection of the pads and disks, as outlined above, this weekend.
The disks have 60,300 miles on them. I have noticed that the right front is a little more scored than the left front disk.
I should be able to do the inspection of the pads and disks, as outlined above, this weekend.
Pete,
My car is a 2010 so my hoses are about 5 years old, not 9. However, I get your point. Since I have never changed out brake fluid, I am not sure I want to use my Porsche to learn how to do it, especially since it is my DD. If I screw it up (hey, **** happens), I will have no mode of transportation.
My car is a 2010 so my hoses are about 5 years old, not 9. However, I get your point. Since I have never changed out brake fluid, I am not sure I want to use my Porsche to learn how to do it, especially since it is my DD. If I screw it up (hey, **** happens), I will have no mode of transportation.
I am not 100% certain but I believe on 997-2, including MY 2010, Carrera S and 4S had metal woven or braided inner tubing in the brake caliper hoses. Brake line problems could be part of the problem but I think it would have to be a rather serious kink and clearly visible.
Lastly I was thinking a bit more about your issue and another idea is that the wheel hub itself may be the culprit (i.e. where the brake disc attaches). If this hub is dirty or uneven in some fashion, it will cause the brake disc to be attached also in an uneven manner and thus cause an uneven lateral run-out on the disc. In other words you will see or feel undulations radially outward from the wheel hub center to the brake disc edge, potentially causing greater brake pad wear and/or dust. The remedy would be to correct the hub unevenness and replace the front brake discs (always replace both discs as a set), ideally with new brake pads too.
#22
Newbies Hospitality Director
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Winston-Salem, NC
Posts: 18,084
Likes: 0
Received 34 Likes
on
33 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I read most of thread, but maybe missed a critical part.... Lets recap and start from scratch...
You only are suspicious of a problem because of more brake dust on one side vs the other?
The caliper on the "dirty side" was replaced? If i read correctly your dealer replaced the caliper that was creating more pad dust? If you have a caliper issue, your dealer may have replaced the wrong one...
Are experiencing any driving issues?
Does the car pull to the right under hard braking?
Cheers
You only are suspicious of a problem because of more brake dust on one side vs the other?
The caliper on the "dirty side" was replaced? If i read correctly your dealer replaced the caliper that was creating more pad dust? If you have a caliper issue, your dealer may have replaced the wrong one...
Are experiencing any driving issues?
Does the car pull to the right under hard braking?
Cheers
I have not experienced any driving issues. The car does not pull to the right under hard braking, which makes this issue all the more puzzling. The only symptom is the excessive brake dust.
#23
Newbies Hospitality Director
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Winston-Salem, NC
Posts: 18,084
Likes: 0
Received 34 Likes
on
33 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I have decided to replace the front brake rotors and pads. The rotors would probably need replacing in the next 10K miles anyway, so I might as well do it now. I will also visually check the brake lines while I have the wheels off.
I will let you know when the parts have been replaced , which probably will not occur until Saturday, March 7. If ,at that time, I aam feeling like "living on the edge," I may test the amount of piston movement as stronbl has suggested. But don't hold you breath on that one.![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Once the parts are replaced will begin to moniter the relative amount of brake dust, "old" versus "new" parts.
Thanks to all of you for the insight and comments. I really do appreciate everyone's input.
I will let you know when the parts have been replaced , which probably will not occur until Saturday, March 7. If ,at that time, I aam feeling like "living on the edge," I may test the amount of piston movement as stronbl has suggested. But don't hold you breath on that one.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Once the parts are replaced will begin to moniter the relative amount of brake dust, "old" versus "new" parts.
Thanks to all of you for the insight and comments. I really do appreciate everyone's input.
![bowdown](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/bowdown.gif)
![thumbup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/thumbup.gif)
#24
Newbies Hospitality Director
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Winston-Salem, NC
Posts: 18,084
Likes: 0
Received 34 Likes
on
33 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
OK, it has been about 2-1/2 weeks since my last post in this thread, so I thought I would give an update on my attempts to eliminate the cause for the excess brake dust on the fight front wheel.
I installed new front rotors and front Hawk ceramic pads last evening. The previous Hawk pads showed little wear and could have easily been reused, but I changed them out anyway.
Here are pics of the two original rotors. The right rotor (1st pic) was definitely more worn that the left one, which I expected because of the additional brake dust on the right front wheel. The second pic is the left front rotor. IF you compare to two inner (smaller) wear dimples the one on the right rotor is smaller that the one on the left rotor.
I'll monitor the brake dust over the next few weeks and see how the two sides compare in relative brake dust. More to come later.
Thanks again for everyone's input.
I installed new front rotors and front Hawk ceramic pads last evening. The previous Hawk pads showed little wear and could have easily been reused, but I changed them out anyway.
Here are pics of the two original rotors. The right rotor (1st pic) was definitely more worn that the left one, which I expected because of the additional brake dust on the right front wheel. The second pic is the left front rotor. IF you compare to two inner (smaller) wear dimples the one on the right rotor is smaller that the one on the left rotor.
I'll monitor the brake dust over the next few weeks and see how the two sides compare in relative brake dust. More to come later.
Thanks again for everyone's input.