Another blown engine..
02-23-2015, 05:26 PM
#32
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These warranty companies are V E R Y tricky. You might have voided your coverage by already doing the post mortem. Be careful. Good luck.
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02-24-2015, 09:37 AM
#33
Let's be real though -- the fear of warmup times ... 3 mins vs 5 vs 10 isn't going to cause any catastrophic failures. Also, these cars need to be cared for and treated well, but they are engineered for reasonable use too, and that isn't anywhere near the worst thing someone can do for their car...
From the book 'Drive it Forever' by Robert Sikorsky: "...prolonged idling is considered one of the most severe engine operating conditions". Some of the things in the book are a little dated but many of the principles still apply.
A 10-15 minute warm up would fall under a long idling period. Now, if I lived in Fargo in January and my car sat outside all night, I might give it a minute or two and gently drive off.
02-24-2015, 09:48 AM
#34
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Really sorry to hear about your blown engine. But maybe good luck that you bought the warranty?
I slung a piston cap in a Toyota Supra I had a long time ago. Was just driving down the interstate at 50-60 mph and it blew up. After all the hard driving I did in it I couldn't believe i blew it up just cruising along! What a sad story! I hope you were spinning the tires in 2nd when yours blew
!
I slung a piston cap in a Toyota Supra I had a long time ago. Was just driving down the interstate at 50-60 mph and it blew up. After all the hard driving I did in it I couldn't believe i blew it up just cruising along! What a sad story! I hope you were spinning the tires in 2nd when yours blew
!
02-24-2015, 03:20 PM
#35
I didn't imply that his failure was caused by warming up the engine (sorry for your troubles OP). I don't mean to start a "warm-up" thread, there are plenty of those. Simply stated, prolonged idling is one of the worst you can do to any engine.
From the book 'Drive it Forever' by Robert Sikorsky: "...prolonged idling is considered one of the most severe engine operating conditions". Some of the things in the book are a little dated but many of the principles still apply.
A 10-15 minute warm up would fall under a long idling period. Now, if I lived in Fargo in January and my car sat outside all night, I might give it a minute or two and gently drive off.
From the book 'Drive it Forever' by Robert Sikorsky: "...prolonged idling is considered one of the most severe engine operating conditions". Some of the things in the book are a little dated but many of the principles still apply.
A 10-15 minute warm up would fall under a long idling period. Now, if I lived in Fargo in January and my car sat outside all night, I might give it a minute or two and gently drive off.
I just wanted to bring it back into the context of this thread. Idling for 10 mins isn't going to cause a modern engine to fail. Lots of people need to idle their cars, and many of those cars (in particular) are very or ultra high mileage cars (think about police cruisers, black car limos, security vehicles etc).
This forum is fantastic for getting ultra-informed opinions and information but sometimes the severity can be blown out of proportion. Just watch all the 911s out there being driven up to red line immediately after sitting in parking lots for a couple hours, people who can't shift properly, people who downshift and engage severe engine braking on a regular basis because of no rev matching, people who leave cars in sub-zero temperatures, start them up and drive off, etc etc... Modern cars are designed for the typical driver in mind, not the expert who knows the optimal way to treat these cars.
Let me state here that I agree that unnecessary, prolonged idling isn't good, and better to not idle than to idle... but I didn't want the impression taken away that this was a likely cause of the failure described here. Then again, I'm often wrong :-)
To the OP, hope this all works out.
02-24-2015, 05:05 PM
#36
Fair enough, but what you said was about prolonged idling: "probably the worst thing you could do for your car (any car) with that sort of prolonged idling."
I just wanted to bring it back into the context of this thread. Idling for 10 mins isn't going to cause a modern engine to fail. Lots of people need to idle their cars, and many of those cars (in particular) are very or ultra high mileage cars (think about police cruisers, black car limos, security vehicles etc).
This forum is fantastic for getting ultra-informed opinions and information but sometimes the severity can be blown out of proportion. Just watch all the 911s out there being driven up to red line immediately after sitting in parking lots for a couple hours, people who can't shift properly, people who downshift and engage severe engine braking on a regular basis because of no rev matching, people who leave cars in sub-zero temperatures, start them up and drive off, etc etc... Modern cars are designed for the typical driver in mind, not the expert who knows the optimal way to treat these cars.
Let me state here that I agree that unnecessary, prolonged idling isn't good, and better to not idle than to idle... but I didn't want the impression taken away that this was a likely cause of the failure described here. Then again, I'm often wrong :-)
To the OP, hope this all works out.
I just wanted to bring it back into the context of this thread. Idling for 10 mins isn't going to cause a modern engine to fail. Lots of people need to idle their cars, and many of those cars (in particular) are very or ultra high mileage cars (think about police cruisers, black car limos, security vehicles etc).
This forum is fantastic for getting ultra-informed opinions and information but sometimes the severity can be blown out of proportion. Just watch all the 911s out there being driven up to red line immediately after sitting in parking lots for a couple hours, people who can't shift properly, people who downshift and engage severe engine braking on a regular basis because of no rev matching, people who leave cars in sub-zero temperatures, start them up and drive off, etc etc... Modern cars are designed for the typical driver in mind, not the expert who knows the optimal way to treat these cars.
Let me state here that I agree that unnecessary, prolonged idling isn't good, and better to not idle than to idle... but I didn't want the impression taken away that this was a likely cause of the failure described here. Then again, I'm often wrong :-)
To the OP, hope this all works out.
Thank you. I live in Sacramento. Which gets pretty cold during the winter. 30 degree or so, My car has 80k on it. I know it isn't a lot compared to some others, but for me, it still has a good amount. I was told to let it idle. Anyways enough about that.
Inspector came out to look at the motor. He too determined that it was a rod failure. We are now awaiting on the warranty company for the next step.
02-24-2015, 05:12 PM
#37
Thank you. I live in Sacramento. Which gets pretty cold during the winter. 30 degree or so, My car has 80k on it. I know it isn't a lot compared to some others, but for me, it still has a good amount. I was told to let it idle. Anyways enough about that.
Inspector came out to look at the motor. He too determined that it was a rod failure. We are now awaiting on the warranty company for the next step.
Inspector came out to look at the motor. He too determined that it was a rod failure. We are now awaiting on the warranty company for the next step.
Again, best of luck with the claim (you shouldn't need luck but who knows?) The posters on this site know a heck of a lot... and much more than me... so I'd definitely take their word for not letting it over-idle (though from my memory that was a bigger issue on older carb cars).
02-24-2015, 08:37 PM
#38
Fair enough, but what you said was about prolonged idling: "probably the worst thing you could do for your car (any car) with that sort of prolonged idling."
I just wanted to bring it back into the context of this thread. Idling for 10 mins isn't going to cause a modern engine to fail. Lots of people need to idle their cars, and many of those cars (in particular) are very or ultra high mileage cars (think about police cruisers, black car limos, security vehicles etc).
This forum is fantastic for getting ultra-informed opinions and information but sometimes the severity can be blown out of proportion. Just watch all the 911s out there being driven up to red line immediately after sitting in parking lots for a couple hours, people who can't shift properly, people who downshift and engage severe engine braking on a regular basis because of no rev matching, people who leave cars in sub-zero temperatures, start them up and drive off, etc etc... Modern cars are designed for the typical driver in mind, not the expert who knows the optimal way to treat these cars.
Let me state here that I agree that unnecessary, prolonged idling isn't good, and better to not idle than to idle... but I didn't want the impression taken away that this was a likely cause of the failure described here. Then again, I'm often wrong :-)
To the OP, hope this all works out.
02-24-2015, 11:33 PM
#39
Nordschleife Master
Just curious on the idling. I've read that idling is the toughest state for the IMS. So I understand getting that motor headed down the road quickly on a Gen 1 car. Does this rule really apply to the Gen 2 cars? The only thing definitive that I've seen is that getting on the move in a hurry is to minimize emissions. Is there more to the story?
Also it is bad for a cold engine to be started in the garage for a short idle and shut down shortly thereafter. Engines with short runs often show gasoline in an oil analysis.
02-24-2015, 11:52 PM
#40
Long idling, especially when the engine is cold is always bad for any engine. Engines get up to operating temperature by doing work (i.e., under load). When the engine is warm idling is also bad because cooling is inefficient, especially in the Summer with the AC running.
Also it is bad for a cold engine to be started in the garage for a short idle and shut down shortly thereafter. Engines with short runs often show gasoline in an oil analysis.
Also it is bad for a cold engine to be started in the garage for a short idle and shut down shortly thereafter. Engines with short runs often show gasoline in an oil analysis.
On a different note - unrelated to the OP's issue - I also recall reading somewhere that idling is hard on the earlier IMS bearings but that's probably for another thread.
02-25-2015, 06:18 PM
#42
While we've gotten off the subject of the blown engine (sorry), my first post, and the last few posts have really been about the detrimental effects of prolonged idling. I try to avoid it. Do what you want with your own car.
03-24-2015, 01:29 AM
#43
Wanted to update everyone..
So, the warranty company actually ended up denying my claim stating that if it was a rod bearing failure that I would have heard it before. essentially saying I should have stopped sooner, but the engine really locked up anyways... After explaining what happened they told me of two options..1) 5000 dollars towards a 27,000 engine build. 2) they could purchase a salvaged 911 c2s and send it to me and have the engine and all necessary parts switched. I went with the salvaged car route. We are currently waiting for the car to arrive to do the swap....It's taking a long time, and I miss my car. However, I am thankful that the warranty company is at least trying to help as much as they can.
So, the warranty company actually ended up denying my claim stating that if it was a rod bearing failure that I would have heard it before. essentially saying I should have stopped sooner, but the engine really locked up anyways... After explaining what happened they told me of two options..1) 5000 dollars towards a 27,000 engine build. 2) they could purchase a salvaged 911 c2s and send it to me and have the engine and all necessary parts switched. I went with the salvaged car route. We are currently waiting for the car to arrive to do the swap....It's taking a long time, and I miss my car. However, I am thankful that the warranty company is at least trying to help as much as they can.
03-24-2015, 09:09 AM
#44
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That sounds weak from the insurance company. So your options are they basically pay for labor or you get a used unknown engine in your car? What's the name of this company as I am looking and this would be one to avoid.
Sorry to hear about your car. Are you planning to do anything to the donor motor prior to install?
I would also keep everything off your motor that is salvageable. Keep them as spares or sell them on the internets.
Sorry to hear about your car. Are you planning to do anything to the donor motor prior to install?
I would also keep everything off your motor that is salvageable. Keep them as spares or sell them on the internets.
