Pad/Rotor change on GTS w/ centerlocks question
#1
Pad/Rotor change on GTS w/ centerlocks question
Hi everyone, time for new front pads and rotors on my GTS. I'm considering attempting this myself, and about to order parts from Suncoast, and just wanted a quick sanity check.
According to Suncoast, it looks like I need the following:
Front Rotor Set (99635140905 and 99635141005)
Front Brake Pad Set (99735194902)
Front Brake Pad Sensors (99761267800 and 99761275700) - Do I need new sensors, or can I just re-use the existing ones?
Front Brake Pad Damper (99635108901) x 4 - Not sure if I need these
Rotor Assembly Hardware Kit x 2 - Is this necessary? Seems pretty expensive for what appears to be a few screws and bolts.
Anything else I'll need? Grease?
If anyone has done this on a car with centerlocks before and has pointers, I'd appreciate it. I've found a few DIY for pad/rotor change on a 997.2, but none specifically for cars with centerlocks. Not sure how different the procedure is, but at least from the Suncoast site, it appears a few of the parts are different at least?
Thanks!
According to Suncoast, it looks like I need the following:
Front Rotor Set (99635140905 and 99635141005)
Front Brake Pad Set (99735194902)
Front Brake Pad Sensors (99761267800 and 99761275700) - Do I need new sensors, or can I just re-use the existing ones?
Front Brake Pad Damper (99635108901) x 4 - Not sure if I need these
Rotor Assembly Hardware Kit x 2 - Is this necessary? Seems pretty expensive for what appears to be a few screws and bolts.
Anything else I'll need? Grease?
If anyone has done this on a car with centerlocks before and has pointers, I'd appreciate it. I've found a few DIY for pad/rotor change on a 997.2, but none specifically for cars with centerlocks. Not sure how different the procedure is, but at least from the Suncoast site, it appears a few of the parts are different at least?
Thanks!
#2
I've done this replacement on 997-2 w/ CL hubs. It is very similar to 5 bolt replacement but there are differences due to the CL hubs. Might check out 997 GT3 forum as they probably have some discussion. But from your list above, I'd get everything listed and add caliper bolts (2 per caliper) and Optimoly paste. If you don't have a wheel install tool (guides the CL wheel onto the disk/hub), I'd get one too, makes the job much easier. Suncoast has them but also Pelican I believe.
The rotor assembly hardware kit is necessary since the materials have been subjected to heat and tightening torques and thus should be replaced. Porsche is extra careful with CL hubs due to well documented problems. If you follow their procedure and that includes replacing parts, you can save money and have the satisfaction of a DIY project and feel confident in the replacement. Take your time and work carefully, keep things clean with the CL hubs.
The rotor assembly hardware kit is necessary since the materials have been subjected to heat and tightening torques and thus should be replaced. Porsche is extra careful with CL hubs due to well documented problems. If you follow their procedure and that includes replacing parts, you can save money and have the satisfaction of a DIY project and feel confident in the replacement. Take your time and work carefully, keep things clean with the CL hubs.
#4
I've done this replacement on 997-2 w/ CL hubs. It is very similar to 5 bolt replacement but there are differences due to the CL hubs. Might check out 997 GT3 forum as they probably have some discussion. But from your list above, I'd get everything listed and add caliper bolts (2 per caliper) and Optimoly paste. If you don't have a wheel install tool (guides the CL wheel onto the disk/hub), I'd get one too, makes the job much easier. Suncoast has them but also Pelican I believe.
The rotor assembly hardware kit is necessary since the materials have been subjected to heat and tightening torques and thus should be replaced. Porsche is extra careful with CL hubs due to well documented problems. If you follow their procedure and that includes replacing parts, you can save money and have the satisfaction of a DIY project and feel confident in the replacement. Take your time and work carefully, keep things clean with the CL hubs.
The rotor assembly hardware kit is necessary since the materials have been subjected to heat and tightening torques and thus should be replaced. Porsche is extra careful with CL hubs due to well documented problems. If you follow their procedure and that includes replacing parts, you can save money and have the satisfaction of a DIY project and feel confident in the replacement. Take your time and work carefully, keep things clean with the CL hubs.
I have the Optimoly paste for the centerlocks, is that what you're referring to? Or is there another paste I need for the brakes?
#5
I'm using this awesome DIY, which suggests yes (Step 24): http://www.motodyn.com/blogs/bikes/o...d-replacement/
However, the Porsche docs I have say:
"The brake pad backing plates (rear side) must not be greased."
So, I'm inclined to go with no grease, but just want to double check.
Also, the instructions in the DIY above suggests cleaning the new discs with brake cleaner before installing. Just wondering if that's necessary.
#6
Where are you located in the Bay Area? Need a helping hand? I assume you have the necessary torque wrench and breaker bar for the centerlocks. If by some chance no, I have them.
#7
Wheels are off, and ready to start. Quick question. Is there any need to grease the pads when installing?
I'm using this awesome DIY, which suggests yes (Step 24): http://www.motodyn.com/blogs/bikes/o...d-replacement/
However, the Porsche docs I have say:
"The brake pad backing plates (rear side) must not be greased."
So, I'm inclined to go with no grease, but just want to double check.
Also, the instructions in the DIY above suggests cleaning the new discs with brake cleaner before installing. Just wondering if that's necessary.
I'm using this awesome DIY, which suggests yes (Step 24): http://www.motodyn.com/blogs/bikes/o...d-replacement/
However, the Porsche docs I have say:
"The brake pad backing plates (rear side) must not be greased."
So, I'm inclined to go with no grease, but just want to double check.
Also, the instructions in the DIY above suggests cleaning the new discs with brake cleaner before installing. Just wondering if that's necessary.
If you use a special brake paste, e.g. a ceramic one with a high enough temperature rating, you should be ok as long as you use a thin smear. I like to use/reuse the anti squeal shims and apply a thin coating on the pad backing which contacts the anti squeal shim. I have found this to be very effective in reducing brake noise - front & rear.
As for cleaning the new brake discs - yes and yes - both sides. They are typically coated with a rust inhibitor and this needs to be cleaned prior to bedding (or using) the new pads. Bedding is also a critical step with new discs. This is the time to get the new pads and discs mated perfectly and deposit a nice thin layer of pad material on the disc - they're only brand new once.
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#8
(Would be fun to get together with a fellow Bay Area GTS-er anytime)
#9
It's an accurate warning from PAG. Part of the past problems have been when people/shops use a silicon based grease. This can cause hardness and/or deterioration issues with the rubber gaskets around the pistons. These seal dirt and grime from the pistons so you can imagine if they became hardened or fall apart - piston action would be impaired. My rule of thumb is, when in doubt, follow PAG's procedure.
If you use a special brake paste, e.g. a ceramic one with a high enough temperature rating, you should be ok as long as you use a thin smear. I like to use/reuse the anti squeal shims and apply a thin coating on the pad backing which contacts the anti squeal shim. I have found this to be very effective in reducing brake noise - front & rear.
As for cleaning the new brake discs - yes and yes - both sides. They are typically coated with a rust inhibitor and this needs to be cleaned prior to bedding (or using) the new pads. Bedding is also a critical step with new discs. This is the time to get the new pads and discs mated perfectly and deposit a nice thin layer of pad material on the disc - they're only brand new once.
If you use a special brake paste, e.g. a ceramic one with a high enough temperature rating, you should be ok as long as you use a thin smear. I like to use/reuse the anti squeal shims and apply a thin coating on the pad backing which contacts the anti squeal shim. I have found this to be very effective in reducing brake noise - front & rear.
As for cleaning the new brake discs - yes and yes - both sides. They are typically coated with a rust inhibitor and this needs to be cleaned prior to bedding (or using) the new pads. Bedding is also a critical step with new discs. This is the time to get the new pads and discs mated perfectly and deposit a nice thin layer of pad material on the disc - they're only brand new once.
#10
Thanks! I'm in MTV/Palo Alto. I do have the torque wrench and breaker bar, and managed to get the wheels off. Hoping to find time to start on the brakes tonight (kids had the day off school, and had to patch a tire from the other car, so didn't have a chance today). I may take you up on your offer if I get stuck.
(Would be fun to get together with a fellow Bay Area GTS-er anytime)
(Would be fun to get together with a fellow Bay Area GTS-er anytime)
There's a drive on Mar 7 heading north if you're interested.