How much room in dealer pricing for 997s?
#1
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I am interested in buying a 997 and have been looking at pricing all over the country, based on inventory on various used listings sites (cars.com, cargurus, etc.). I'm wondering how much negotiating room tends to be in the 997 pricing I'm seeing. Based on a nationwide search I ran last night, I saw the following ranges for year, trim and mileage:
2006 Carrera S - $42,000 to $46,000 for 18k-40k miles
2007 Carrera - $40,000 for 30-40k miles
2007 Carrera S - $42,000 to $46,000 for 30k-40k miles
2008 Carrera - $43,000 to $45,000 for 18k - 40k miles
2008 Carrera S - $49,000 to $51,000 for 30k - 45k miles
I know dealer margins on used cars tend to be lofty, but I'm curious what the reasonable ranges for the above years and trims would be. I would prefer to keep this under $35k, but it sounds like that would preclude me from getting a Carrera S (and make it tight getting a Carrera, for that matter). If I can't pick up a good example for my budgeted amount, I may need to weigh the Cayman option, which I have also given thought to.
Thanks in advance!
2006 Carrera S - $42,000 to $46,000 for 18k-40k miles
2007 Carrera - $40,000 for 30-40k miles
2007 Carrera S - $42,000 to $46,000 for 30k-40k miles
2008 Carrera - $43,000 to $45,000 for 18k - 40k miles
2008 Carrera S - $49,000 to $51,000 for 30k - 45k miles
I know dealer margins on used cars tend to be lofty, but I'm curious what the reasonable ranges for the above years and trims would be. I would prefer to keep this under $35k, but it sounds like that would preclude me from getting a Carrera S (and make it tight getting a Carrera, for that matter). If I can't pick up a good example for my budgeted amount, I may need to weigh the Cayman option, which I have also given thought to.
Thanks in advance!
#2
Three Wheelin'
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The higher the price of the car, the larger the margin. However, every deal is specific. If a car has been sitting, the sales manager may want to get rid of it. If the car is new to the dealer and he thinks it will sell quickly, he may not budge on the margin.
If the dealer has a Sea Blue car he took in on trade, he may have it for sale for a week with plans to dump it at auction because he know he'll never sell it.....LOL. So, if you make an offer that takes it off his hands close to auction pricing, you'll get it. Apologies to those with Sea Blue.
If the dealer has a Sea Blue car he took in on trade, he may have it for sale for a week with plans to dump it at auction because he know he'll never sell it.....LOL. So, if you make an offer that takes it off his hands close to auction pricing, you'll get it. Apologies to those with Sea Blue.
#3
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One thing that I have read is that dealers are under much more pressure to make their quotas at the end of a month and/or quarter. You might have more leverage during those periods of time as opposed to the beginning of a month and/or quarter.
Good luck in your search.
Good luck in your search.
#5
Instructor
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What area are you living in? Prices are very region specific. In the DC area where I live there's no way of finding an early 997 for the mid thirties unless it has very high miles. Realistically, you're looking at low fourties to start depending on the model and miles. Your price range is more in line with a later model 996.
#6
Rennlist Member
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Here is my contribution just in case you weren't aware: Repairs and parts costs on these cars are much higher than most common cars. This is mitigated some if you do your own maintenance and repairs for the most common issues. Porsche mechanic rates, especially at the dealer, are higher than most. (For example, dealers charge around $280 for an oil change). Porsche parts are quite pricey (a headlight that got cracked by debris from a truck ahead of me cost $1450 to replace).
I think you might find some cars in the price range you are looking for, but be careful that you carefully vet the car and don't end up with a bad surprise after you own it. There are certainly deals to be found if you are patient, but sometimes an unusually low cost can be a sign of issues. Some are willing to accept this to get a good deal... typically when you are willing to fix the issues yourself or you are planning to hang on to the car for a long time and resale value is not a concern.
Strongly consider spending the money for a reputable PPI (pre-purchase inspection) to make sure there aren't any issues that will cost you dearly if you miss them. Consider paying a bit more for a car that has good records with a proven history of proper maintenance and a reasonably clean PPI report as it may save you money in the long run. There will always be some issues on a good report, paint chips, minor repaints (the nose especially), little things worn or broke, so don't expect perfection for the price point you are trying to hit, just make sure they are things you understand and are willing to accept in exchange for the good price.
Ultimately I agree with widebodytarga, if you can get into the low forties you are more likely to find a better car that will cost you less in the long run. Caymans are also a great alternative in the 30s. Great handling and darn good power just under that of the Carreras.
I think you might find some cars in the price range you are looking for, but be careful that you carefully vet the car and don't end up with a bad surprise after you own it. There are certainly deals to be found if you are patient, but sometimes an unusually low cost can be a sign of issues. Some are willing to accept this to get a good deal... typically when you are willing to fix the issues yourself or you are planning to hang on to the car for a long time and resale value is not a concern.
Strongly consider spending the money for a reputable PPI (pre-purchase inspection) to make sure there aren't any issues that will cost you dearly if you miss them. Consider paying a bit more for a car that has good records with a proven history of proper maintenance and a reasonably clean PPI report as it may save you money in the long run. There will always be some issues on a good report, paint chips, minor repaints (the nose especially), little things worn or broke, so don't expect perfection for the price point you are trying to hit, just make sure they are things you understand and are willing to accept in exchange for the good price.
Ultimately I agree with widebodytarga, if you can get into the low forties you are more likely to find a better car that will cost you less in the long run. Caymans are also a great alternative in the 30s. Great handling and darn good power just under that of the Carreras.
#7
Three Wheelin'
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It would take $10k just to recondition the car, interior and exterior.
I don't think $35k is unrealistic but its challenging. You might get lucky and find a middle mileage well taken care of base 997 for $35k from a private party.
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#9
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There are cars out there for 30-35k, but if you can somehow stretch to 40k and consider an '05 I think you will open up a lot more options.
This is a nicely optioned base for under 40.
https://rennlist.com/forums/vehicle-...red-black.html
This is a nicely optioned base for under 40.
https://rennlist.com/forums/vehicle-...red-black.html
#10
Burning Brakes
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My advice would be to up your price range to 50k and you can get a pretty low mileage 997.2 (30,000 or less miles), lots of piece of mind and no maintenance for wear and tear items for a while.
#11
Three Wheelin'
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Everything is in the "deal".
How much did the dealer pay for the car as a trade-in. A good rule of thumb is to put the details into KBB.com, take the wholesale price and take off another 10%. That's what the dealer paid for the car. Then find out how much they put into it....maintenance items (oil change, brakes, tires, etc)....ask for workorders to prove their cost. They won't tell you what they paid for it, but you have a good idea + their costs for whatever they did.
Then the party begins....how bad to they want to sell vs. how bad you want it. I always start about 5% higher than what I think they paid to see the reaction....then pry out the work they did and add it to your first price. That's the second offer. If no bite, walk....if you're close to a number they want, they won't let you leave. If you walk, check back in two weeks and reaffirm your offer....that is if they haven't already called you!
I do this will all my car purchases. When I bought my 06 C2S in June it was advertised at $55K (45K miles....see signature for options). My first offer was $35K....they showed me the $3K they put into it (brakes/tires all around, oil change)....I countered back with $38K and left.
Over the next month they steadily dropped the price to $45K....I walked in with a cashier's check for $41.1K ($38K plus tax and license) and left with the car an hour later.
Patience waits for no one....not all my purchases have turned out this way, but a good 80% have.
Good luck and good hunting!
How much did the dealer pay for the car as a trade-in. A good rule of thumb is to put the details into KBB.com, take the wholesale price and take off another 10%. That's what the dealer paid for the car. Then find out how much they put into it....maintenance items (oil change, brakes, tires, etc)....ask for workorders to prove their cost. They won't tell you what they paid for it, but you have a good idea + their costs for whatever they did.
Then the party begins....how bad to they want to sell vs. how bad you want it. I always start about 5% higher than what I think they paid to see the reaction....then pry out the work they did and add it to your first price. That's the second offer. If no bite, walk....if you're close to a number they want, they won't let you leave. If you walk, check back in two weeks and reaffirm your offer....that is if they haven't already called you!
I do this will all my car purchases. When I bought my 06 C2S in June it was advertised at $55K (45K miles....see signature for options). My first offer was $35K....they showed me the $3K they put into it (brakes/tires all around, oil change)....I countered back with $38K and left.
Over the next month they steadily dropped the price to $45K....I walked in with a cashier's check for $41.1K ($38K plus tax and license) and left with the car an hour later.
Patience waits for no one....not all my purchases have turned out this way, but a good 80% have.
Good luck and good hunting!
#12
Rennlist Member
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What area are you living in? Prices are very region specific. In the DC area where I live there's no way of finding an early 997 for the mid thirties unless it has very high miles. Realistically, you're looking at low fourties to start depending on the model and miles. Your price range is more in line with a later model 996.
Also dealers do their homework, for example if they have a Targa for sale and there are no others with-in 100 miles they will price it higher. If the area is saturated they will be more competitive.
My local P-Car dealer prices cars to sell, there is not much room for negotiation. Others price high and make you feel like you got a good deal talking them down $5K or so. I prefer the honest ones that price low and do not play as many games.
#15
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To answer a couple questions above, I am located in Southern California. I don't really want to spend more than $40k on a car right now, so I may start looking at the Cayman S.