Buddhamonk

2006 C2S with manual transmission

Got a warning counting down from 30 days regarding "service due"

It's now down to 0 and I am close to 20K miles

I did the last oil change, cabin air filter and engine air filter at 14K miles which was one year ago when I bought the car. I have the owner's manual but I do not have the "maintenance brochure" that the owners manual refers to. From reading several different posts, I plan on the doing the following

1. Oil change and filter change (due yearly)
2. Brake fluid change (due tat 20K miles)
3. Sparks plugs (due at 4 years)

Here are questions I have.
a. Should I replace the coil packs assuming they are not damaged
b. Am I due to serpentine belt? not sure if I need to replace it

Also
Water pump is fine without a leak so I don't plan to mess with it at this time

Some help would be appreciated - I do all the work myself so I don't mind doing more.

Macster

Unless you have been seeing the CEL come on and the error codes are misfire codes, or unless when you change the plugs and inspect the coils and observe the coils packs have deteriorated leave them be.

Handle them with care though. You don't want to go tossing them around.

While the belt doesn't have the miles it has the years. It is 8 years old. I'd replace it.

BTW, brake fluid flush/bleed is due every 2 years regardless of miles. If you car has it be sure to flush/bleed the clutch hydraulic system too.

Leave the water pump alone unless it makes noise or leaks.

I'd recommend you drain the engine's coolant and then refill the engine with fresh coolant, a 50/50 blend of Porsche anti-freeze and distilled water.

Petza914

I agree with Macster - usually do

The Service Reminder is a 2 year countdown that the car does since it was last reset at a dealership during a service. You can reset the warning with Durametric - you can find the menu for where that's located by searching the forum (I don't recall off the top of my head).

The serp belt is easy to change, so do that. It's as simple as removing the airbox, using a long breaker bar with the correct reverse torx socket on it to release the tensioner, removing the old belt and installing the new belt. Before you remove the old belt, take a few digital photos so you can get the routing around the pulleys correct, and also not which direction the belt rotates - the replacement may have a directional arrow on it. Make sure the grooves in the belt are properly aligned with the grooves in any of the grooved pulleys before releasing the tensioner. Throw the old one in a ziploc bag and keep it somewhere as a spare in case you ever snap one while on a trip.

Unless you're getting CEL codes or the car isn't running right when driving in the rain, I wouldn't do the plugs and coil packs for another 10,000-20,000 miles.

Coolant is probably OK too - Porsche calls it "Lifetime Coolant". Would I run it to 100,000 miles, no, but 20,000 should be fine. You can renew it when you do the water pump at 40,000-45,000 miles.

Definitely need to do a brake flush - quite easy with a Motive Power Bleeder that you can buy on Amazon. You just hook it up to the fluid resevoir, pressurize the bleeder tank (you can fill it with fluid, but that's the messy way to do it) to about 20 psi, and then go around to each wheel starting with the one furthest from the master cylinder and working your way to the one closest to the Master Cylinder. Put a silicone hose on the bleed screws and open each one, catching the fluid in a collection container. There are 2 bleed screws per caliper - do the bottom one first. Depending on how much fluid you're taking out, you need to top up the Fluid Resevoir to prevent it from running dry. I do it after each wheel just to be safe. DO NOT GET BRAKE FLUID ON YOUR PAINT.

I'm sure you can find DIYs for all of these in the 997 Tech index or just by searching.

Macster

A problem of waiting until the water pump requires changing to replace the coolant is the water pump water pump may not be needing replacement even at 40K/50K miles. The original one in my Boxster lasted 172K miles. The one in my Turbo 120K miles.

Coolant is like brake fluid in that it is not so much affected by miles but by time. Over time the coolant's corrosion fighting additive package gets depleted and this can lead to corrosion of the radiators, oil/water heat exchanger, water pump seals, and so on.

While I know Porsche says the coolant is lifetime its additive package is not and I would change the coolant every 4 to 5 years on order to keep the additive package strength up.

Buddhamonk

Thanks for all the input. so here's what I'll plan to do

1. Oil change and filter change (due yearly)
2. Brake fluid change (due tat 20K miles and at 2 years)
3. Sparks plugs (due at 4 years). I'll skip the coil packs unless I see some damage when doing the plugs
3. I'll bleed the brakes. Brake pads and rotors look fine
4. I'll skip the coolant since it isn't in the scheduled maintenance. I only plan to keep the car for the next two years. Saving up to buy a GT3. I don't think I'll ever get to 40K miles with this car.
5. Serpentine belt.

I plan to buy all the parts/supplies from SunsetPorsche since they are local. More expensive but all OEM.


When using the motive power bleeder and not filling it up with brake fluid. Do you have to disconnect it each time you want to top off?
I don't have a durametric but I assume I can clear the service code using a ODBII code reader unless I am wrong about that.

Buddhamonk

I ended up ordering with Suncoast. Prices were much cheaper compared to sunset even after shipping.

I added some OEM windshield wiper blades just for the heck of it.

KNS

When I use a Motive bleeder I don't put any fluid in it but rather top up the reservoir and then use the power bleeder (with just air in it) to push the fluid through the system. Keep an eye on the fluid level in the reservoir and don't let it get too low, you need to keep adding fluid as you work your way around.

The way is much less messy with no need to clean out the bleeder when you're done.

Dubbin'

I use the Motive with Fluid inside it. It's not messy at all from my experience. I just wipe it clean and pass air through the hose.

It avoids having te re-pressurize everytime you fill the master cylinder reservoir.

my 2 cents.

Thanks,
Mark

onewhippedpuppy

Same here. I would hate having to stop and refill the master cylinder multiple times. When doing an 2-year flush I typically buy two liters of fluid and dump both into the bleeder, it's more than enough to do the brakes and clutch slave cylinder.

Regarding coolant, I think doing it at 20k is likely a waste of time. It's also a pain to DIY unless you have an Airlift to vacuum and fill the system.

Lvt19672

+2 fill the motive bleeder with brake fluid, one liter is plenty for the whole job, pressure it up to 20 lbs. and bleed away.

Buddhamonk

Belt is done - easy

Half the plugs done - not fun at all

Petza914

Plugs are much easier if you just bite the bullet and pull the headers. The rest of the exhaust (mufflers & cats) can remain in place. Reinstall with new gaskets at both sides. Also a good opportunity to reinstall with stainless hardware and anti-seize so down the road you don't run the risk of a frozen header bolt breaking off in the head. Use special exhaust nuts which lock on but don't have the nylon insert (that will melt out). Most of these non-nylon insert exhaust nuts are copper.

Buddhamonk

All plugs are done. The issue wasnt the headers but the freaking exhaust bracket getting in the way. It's welded on but i seriously thought of pulling out the angle grinder and removing them (i have muffler bypass pipes so they're not being used anyway)

Buddhamonk

While flushing the brakes which was easy to do, i could not reach the clutch bleed valve. Could barely get my hand on it to remove the cap. Couldn't fit a tool on it because it is so cramp and the line makes this double loop in front of it. How do people bleed the clutch? I might take it in that way my indy can also reset the service message.