Car: 2006 Carrera (Cab) - 30k miles

Indy shop is recommending preventative maintenance and to replace the water pump this Spring. I've read too many threads and see opinions on both sides of the fence.

- are there any early warning signs/sounds of failure?

- cost is around $1k from indy (part/labor). How do-able is the job itself? I've seen a couple decent videos online and it doesn't look too bad.

- Indy shop is also recommending installing a low temp thermostat (where I can I buy? any videos on replacing?)

- Any other things to do while getting at the pump? (already did plugs, belt, oil)

Excellence Mag had, in the past, recommended to replace the water pump at 40 K miles but more recently, they are recommending that you look for leaks around the pump or check for any play in the bearing or noise.

Do it before you are stranded like me with coolant spewing from the rear because a failed water pump bearing. Also can be catastrophic if water pump fails and the plastic impellers break and log into the engine causing hot spots in the engine and permanent damage.

I just completed this job over Thanksgiving so while its still fresh in memory..

- For the bearing you will hear a whine or see fliud leakage. No warning for the impeller degredation

- Depends on experience, if you are mechanically inclined, it is not a hard job and can be done with basic tools

- If you are planning to do so, this would be a good time and its very easy. Check out Pelican


- Accessory belt since it will be off anyways. Also check for play in any pulleys.

- Not sure if the 997 has the same issue, but if you have this plastic coupling for the small hose near the oil filler neck, consider replacing with a brass one found at any Ace Hardware, Lowes etc
> https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...lant-leak.html

Additionally make sure you have a bucket (or two) to catch all the fliud, as well as the AirLift tool to refill/bleed (not required but very helpful) as well as distilled water and new coolant to replace lost amount

Mine started to leak on my 996 before I replaced it. I think that's a pretty common symptom of impending failure.

My SOP is to just keep an ear tuned for any abnormal sounds from the engine which can be a sign of pending water pump trouble, and to keep a lookout for any signs of coolant leaks under the car and for any loss of coolant at the tank which can also be a sign of pending water pump trouble (or a leak elsewhere in the cooling system), and to be on the alert for any anti-freeze odor which can also be a sign of pending water pump trouble or a leak elsewhere in the cooling system.

The Boxster's water pump got grumbly/rumbling at around 172K miles. The Turbo's water pump was still quiet but upon inspection was showing signs of a coolant leak -- a nice blob of dried anti-freeze residue had accumulated on the water pump housing. BTW, the inspection was triggered because I caught a strong whiff of anti-freeze one hot day.

As for the low temperature T-stat my advice is to *not* install this. A low temperature T-stat just means the engine takes longer to warm up and a cold even a cool engine is an engine that experiences more wear.

Replace the water pump because it is bad, or just because you want to. Replace the T-stat because that is SOP to replace the T-stat when replacing the water pump. (It is also SOP, at least for me, to first check the T-stat's opening by placing it in a pan of water on the stove along with the old T-stat and raise the water temperature and observe at what the T-stats are fully opened. You want to confirm at least the new one opens at the right temperature, the temperature is stamped on the T-Stat somewhere.) But do not use a low temperature T-stat.

Great advice as always. Thanks everyone.

my wp bearing started 'noisin' up at about 29,500 km's...got the parts and myself and a bud changed it out in a couple of hours...the DIY procedures are invaluable...kind of like getting to drive into the big garage in zuffenhausen and asking for a hand, and, getting a 'no problem'...or something... the point is, that was kind of early for it to go, and she's a 2008...

Change the water pump when it leaks.

Or change it when it breaks without warning on the open road. That's what happened in my -09 C4S at around 30K miles. Took the serpentine belt with it too.

I've changed mine twice. First under warranty at 29000 miles. Second time at 49000 miles, bearing started going bad, causing noise, and was worn out. Easy 2 hour project.

The idea behind a low-temp thermostat is that it will fully open sooner giving the engine full coolant flow earlier than the oem thermostat would have done and in an engine that is prone to hot spots this *could be* a really good thing. Hartech has some good tech articles about it on their website, in their 997 buyers guide I think. They convinced me and on hot days I don't notice it warm up any differently. However, my low temp thermostat is fully open at 186F (oem is 210) and I find on cold days my car will warm up at the same speed until it gets to that temp. Then because the thermostat is fully open it starts to take longer to get the temp higher and it may hang just a hair under 200F for a while. I don't use my 997 to run errands though, so taking a little longer to warm up isn't a problem.