Key Stuck in Ignition with Full Battery Power
11-26-2014, 12:48 PM
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Key Stuck in Ignition with Full Battery Power
Hello All,
So, I left key in my ignition and drained the battery. I was able to open the frunk and have replaced the battery with a new one.
Using the long "paper clip tool" from the fuse box I was able to get my key to release.
Now....every time I re-insert the key it gets stuck. I started the car drove around the block....but the key is still gets stuck . I've used the release paper clip tool several times to get the key out. I also used my spare key but that gets stuck too.
Could it be the switch?
Will I have to get a new key cut for car?
All because I left the key in the ignition!!!! DUH!!!!
Looking for some help here?
997.1 - 2007 Targa 4S just in case it's relevant.
So, I left key in my ignition and drained the battery. I was able to open the frunk and have replaced the battery with a new one.
Using the long "paper clip tool" from the fuse box I was able to get my key to release.
Now....every time I re-insert the key it gets stuck. I started the car drove around the block....but the key is still gets stuck . I've used the release paper clip tool several times to get the key out. I also used my spare key but that gets stuck too.
Could it be the switch?
Will I have to get a new key cut for car?
All because I left the key in the ignition!!!! DUH!!!!
Looking for some help here?
997.1 - 2007 Targa 4S just in case it's relevant.
Last edited by 65kodey; 11-26-2014 at 12:51 PM. Reason: added car specs
11-26-2014, 04:33 PM
#2
I'd start by removing the switch and playing with it outside the car. Maybe something is stuck (WD40?). It's pretty easy to remove. Mask the area near the trim piece with tape. Pry off the trim with a plastic pry bar. Unscrew the nut underneath. Push the switch into the dash and remove from behind. Unplug and it's out.
Search for "ignition switch trim replacement" and you'll see some pictures. MAC Carbon has a good install guide on their site for the trim piece too.
Search for "ignition switch trim replacement" and you'll see some pictures. MAC Carbon has a good install guide on their site for the trim piece too.
11-26-2014, 10:10 PM
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Operation disconnect battery while key is out in hopes of a reset is underway. I'll let it sit overnight and report back.
I've ordered tool to remove switch should be here in a few days. Once it gets here I'll start operation WD40, where I'll remove the bezel, remove and inspect the switch and spray WD40. Expect a report back as well.
Thanks to you both for the ideas much appreciated.
I've ordered tool to remove switch should be here in a few days. Once it gets here I'll start operation WD40, where I'll remove the bezel, remove and inspect the switch and spray WD40. Expect a report back as well.
Thanks to you both for the ideas much appreciated.
11-27-2014, 02:52 PM
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Operation Battery Reset complete, did not help the situation.
Moving on to replacing the switch, anyone know the programing sequence involved if any?
Moving on to replacing the switch, anyone know the programing sequence involved if any?
12-01-2014, 01:11 PM
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Update:
Did a fair amount of research over the thanksgiving break.
So far I found that this is a very common thing for 997 and 987's.
No definitive answer as to what causes the switch to go bad but one suggestion is that some how during operation to get the frunk open it gets a power surge and well its key release function gets messed up.
While many of the posts said they would follow up after the fix, none did. In one or two of the cases the cars were still under warranty so they were taken to dealer for repairs.
I found an used switch on Ebay and also bought a new switch from ECS and will attempt a DIY replacement in the next coming week.
Again any wisdom out there would be appreciated.
Did a fair amount of research over the thanksgiving break.
So far I found that this is a very common thing for 997 and 987's.
No definitive answer as to what causes the switch to go bad but one suggestion is that some how during operation to get the frunk open it gets a power surge and well its key release function gets messed up.
While many of the posts said they would follow up after the fix, none did. In one or two of the cases the cars were still under warranty so they were taken to dealer for repairs.
I found an used switch on Ebay and also bought a new switch from ECS and will attempt a DIY replacement in the next coming week.
Again any wisdom out there would be appreciated.
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12-01-2014, 05:51 PM
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It does not appear that I will need a new key.
Apparently, the key pattern for our cars is only really useful for the door tumblers.
The "main computer module" chip/programming is what starts the car. In other words, I could take your key and insert to my ignition switch it would turn but not start the car. Because the main computer does not recognize it.
Porsche kept the "Insert Key and Turn" as opposed to a push button with a remote key fob.
At least that's what the research suggests. In a week or so this will not be theoretical research.
Apparently, the key pattern for our cars is only really useful for the door tumblers.
The "main computer module" chip/programming is what starts the car. In other words, I could take your key and insert to my ignition switch it would turn but not start the car. Because the main computer does not recognize it.
Porsche kept the "Insert Key and Turn" as opposed to a push button with a remote key fob.
At least that's what the research suggests. In a week or so this will not be theoretical research.
12-01-2014, 06:29 PM
#10
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It does not appear that I will need a new key.
Apparently, the key pattern for our cars is only really useful for the door tumblers.
The "main computer module" chip/programming is what starts the car. In other words, I could take your key and insert to my ignition switch it would turn but not start the car. Because the main computer does not recognize it.
Porsche kept the "Insert Key and Turn" as opposed to a push button with a remote key fob.
At least that's what the research suggests. In a week or so this will not be theoretical research.
Apparently, the key pattern for our cars is only really useful for the door tumblers.
The "main computer module" chip/programming is what starts the car. In other words, I could take your key and insert to my ignition switch it would turn but not start the car. Because the main computer does not recognize it.
Porsche kept the "Insert Key and Turn" as opposed to a push button with a remote key fob.
At least that's what the research suggests. In a week or so this will not be theoretical research.
12-04-2014, 04:44 PM
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Final Report
Very happy to report positive results.
No longer questions or theory, the new switch is plug and play.
No programming or re-keying required.
The part is fairly easy to install. Getting your hands under the dash and removing the plug from the old switch is by far the hardest part.
Careful with the metal plate where the indoor foot well light is connected, somewhat sharp.
Also, I stuck my hand under the steering wheel gap to align the new switch in the dash. Last I inserted the key into the new switch to be better able to align it to the dash, until I screwed on the "plastic bezel bolt". Others might have smaller hands or other methods to this but it worked for me, so I thought I would share.
The new switch is for sale from Pelican and other vendors and retails for about $150.00 - $175.00.
I bought the tool to remove the "plastic bezel bolt" from Snap On for $20.00 but in retrospect me thinks I did not need it. A small push from a screwdriver might have done the trick.
Enjoy the photos.
Robert
No longer questions or theory, the new switch is plug and play.
No programming or re-keying required.
The part is fairly easy to install. Getting your hands under the dash and removing the plug from the old switch is by far the hardest part.
Careful with the metal plate where the indoor foot well light is connected, somewhat sharp.
Also, I stuck my hand under the steering wheel gap to align the new switch in the dash. Last I inserted the key into the new switch to be better able to align it to the dash, until I screwed on the "plastic bezel bolt". Others might have smaller hands or other methods to this but it worked for me, so I thought I would share.
The new switch is for sale from Pelican and other vendors and retails for about $150.00 - $175.00.
I bought the tool to remove the "plastic bezel bolt" from Snap On for $20.00 but in retrospect me thinks I did not need it. A small push from a screwdriver might have done the trick.
Enjoy the photos.
Robert