Yea, you'll be ok. Even at 118, it doesn't take much to get that first half turn.

 

You should be OK with the anti-seize that was left on the bolts. A little anti-seize goes a long ways.

 

As a long time believer in anti seize but a newcomer to Porsche, I have been surprised by some of my old tried and true ways. One of these is anti seize. If we aren't supposed to use anti seize on the spark plugs because the lubrication this supplies the threads will screw up the torque, where else does this rule apply? If I believe the plugs, shouldn't the lugs be included and installed dry?

I'm not trying to be difficult here. I'm just a bit confused with some of my new found knowledge.

 

I agree with earlier posts that anti-seize is a good thing, and I further concur with helispud that enough tends to carry over from earlier applications that you are fine.

One of the reasons you do want to use anti-seize is that it acts as a lubricant between the thread surfaces and allows the torque wrench to sense the tightness coming from the tension of the stretched bolt pulling inwards instead of a false sense of tightness due to friction between the dry thread surfaces. This is why you have to use lug bolts with the proper "tensile strength" and torque setting applied with anti-seize (in a lubricant role at this point), you want them all stretched the same amount and pulling inwards the same amount.

In the case of the spark plug, it isn't holding anything other than itself. On a wheel, there is a lot of force on the wheel tugging and pushing at the bolt... so they are two significantly different things.

 

Borrowing MY997's post, besides a bit of anti-seize on the bolt threads you are supposed to put a bit btween the conical washer and the bolt head, but keep the conical part of the conical washer lube-free. Ooops, Porsche calls the conical washer "a spherical cap ring".

 

Per
http://beru.federalmogul.com/product...-ultra-x-titan
we do not want anti seize on our spark plugs.

On the other hand, per
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/a...p/t-72963.html
there is a bit of disagreement about the use of oil, anti seize, or locktite as well as disagreement with Beru!!!

One thing that seems clear is that wheel lugs should be tightened slowly (no impact wrench speed) to avoid problems with burrs on the threads causing welding and seizing problems. The solution to this seems to be oil in some cases, and others strongly state that oil should never be used on any threads.

As I stated in my original post, I've been a believer in anti-seize. It has worked well for me for many years ... on almost everything that didn't need locktite. Beru's post caused extended lunchtime conversation here at the office.

With the acquisition of the C4S I have seen Porsche to be quite fanatic about procedures. So I have been trying to relearn methods per more modern technology. Metallurgy changes as well as what metals are used for what purpose. And what I hear about Porsche doesn't always agree with my "common sense."

But I'm discovering that there does not seem to be a consensus about a lot of this yet!!! Forgive my ignorance, but doesn't Porsche have a stake in this? Don't they have a master guide book somewhere? I'd pay some bucks to have a resource like that laying in my shop!!!

 

If this were the case, why do centerlock threads require the CL lube?

 

Your question seems to just verify what I said, so I don't understand your question. The center lock part that you see is a giant nut in this case, the giant bolt is the hub. You get a more accurate torque with the grease since it reduces the friction coming from the threads and and the giant bolt's tensile strength is holding the wheel tightly.

What am I missing?

 

In the case of a fastener squeezing one part against another, the resultant force is a function of the thread pitch and the torque used. But this ignores the thread friction that reduces the true torque. I do not see a reasonable method to accurately measure this friction (outside of a lab). So it makes sense that you would try to eliminate or at least minimize it. Anti seize would help do this. So would oil.

I would also agree that the example of the CL wheel supports this as well.

I still need to go back and read the no anti seize on a spark plug argument again. This one did not stick in my brain!

 

Misread your post

 

We have been so hung up on torque specs and anti-seize (all good discussion) that no one has mentioned "mounting guide bolts" for the OP...I know you can do this without them but they sure make this job a lot easier

 

+1

I have PCCBs and use 2 of these when removing a wheel to be sure I can slide the wheel clear of the rotors to prevent damage. Good call MY997.

Here's the link to what we're talking about from Suncoast

http://www.suncoastparts.com/product...=997S_wheelacc

 

Good call MY997 and Petza! I use one of these but have only used it to help guide the wheel on... I never considered using it when taking the wheel off to make sure I clear the caliper with no dings. I'll do that from now on. Looks like I should consider a second one. I got mine from eBay ($15 with free shipping), just search for "Porsche wheel guide". I like the friction surface at the fingertips and the taper for sliding the wheel up it easily.



Thanks for teaching me something else new and thanks to OP for an interesting thread.

 

Very cool and I was at my buddies house this past weekend helping install spacers on his C2 and we used them to both remove and install the wheel and it was effortless and saved from the things Petza discussed.

Suncoast sells them for $10 a piece but if one (like myself) is looking to buy spacers sometimes you can find them included in the deal (Sharkwerks selling RSS spacers).

 

I can confirm the 118 ft-lb spec is printed in my owner's manual (2012MY).

Does anyone know why they changed it? 118 is a lot higher than 96.