ngng

Spend last night swapping the PCCBs for steels. The most annoying part of the entire installation was the brake hard line...even with the flare nut wrench it was a pain to remove the old lines. A tip for all of you who do your own brake flushes! Normally, I'd have somebody open and close the bleeder while I pump the brakes; last night my friend showed me a trick that was awesome. If you get a long bleed hose, after you attach the hose keep it vertical for about good foot before it bends back down into the drain container. This way it you'll always have fluid in the drain tube so when the person on the brake pedal releases the pressure, instead of sucking air back in you'll suck fluid in. This way the person on the brakes can just keep pumping the pedal while the person at the caliper can watch until the fluid is flushed. We bled all four corners of my car, two bleeder valves per caliper, really quickly. No need to open and close!

I'm going to miss the ceramics, but I'm glad this is done. I choose the ST kit for the combination of opex, which is the lowest of all the other solutions I've found; the ease of pad change, and not having to deal with pad fitment. I normally run CT brakes but their costs seem to have been slowly creeping up, so I'm going to give the ST race pads a try; the 34 compound first, and the 33 compound next. If they don't work out, it'll be back to CT! Next up, pinning the coolant lines in the car!

The ST kit works on centerlock cars, as such, their instructions did not mention a simple yet fairly important step...you MUST swap the nubbins from to the new rotors!

One911

out of curiosity did you weight the PCCB system vs the stoptech?

ngng

Stoptech:
380mm: ~21 lbs
355mm: ~19 lbs

PCCB are both ~ 12lbs

I did not weight the calipers, but that weight is static.