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Really want to thank the OP again! With this great DIY write up and detailed photos, I went ahead to replace the starter this weekend.
The first attempt I underestimated the length of the wrench extension needed so I couldn't get to the the lower bolt. So I put everything back together and went to buy a 20 inch, extension which was really hard to find.
Once I had the right tools, I restarted the job and was done in about 2.5 hours. I didn't have to remove the tuning pipe (tried but was really tight), but I was lucky that I had small hands so I could still slide my hand to underneath the starter and guide the wrench extension to unlock the bolt, as well as removing the bolt withOUT dropping it!!!
It's still early to say if this has fixed the problem yet. But the initial tests at warm start seemed to be better:
- before : Chee--e--Chee---e--Che---Che--Che-Start!
- after: Che---Che--Che-Start!
My battery is 3.5 years old now, so I will get replaced anyway and see if I can get it to:
- Che-Che-Start.
This was probably the boldest DIY on this 997 for me so far. Thanks to OP again for this excellent write up
Great job! Harbor Freight probably has those long extensions. It's one of those tools you will probably rarely ever use. It would be a shame to spend too much on a Craftsman or Snap-on extension. I can't remember where I got mine. I think it was one of those tools I just acquired over the years but it works perfectly for this task.
By the way, after I took out the intake plenum tube, I noticed that it's quite oily / greasy on the inside. Similar to the condition shown on your photos from the first post. Is this normal? Or the AOS needs replacing soon? Thx.
Originally Posted by Devil Boy
Great job! Harbor Freight probably has those long extensions. It's one of those tools you will probably rarely ever use. It would be a shame to spend too much on a Craftsman or Snap-on extension. I can't remember where I got mine. I think it was one of those tools I just acquired over the years but it works perfectly for this task.
By the way, after I took out the intake plenum tube, I noticed that it's quite oily / greasy on the inside. Similar to the condition shown on your photos from the first post. Is this normal? Or the AOS needs replacing soon? Thx.
If I'm not mistaken, the purpose of the AOS is to direct oil vapors from the crankcase back into the air intake so a little oil mist in the intake plenum is probably nothing to be to concerned about. If it was literally dripping wet then maybe that should be looked into. The area around the base of my AOS had some oil and dirt build-up. Similar to what you used to get around PCV valves on old V8 engines. I just attribute this to the high mileage and the fact that it's out of sight and out of reach to be wiped down occasionally. I'm not burning oil or blowing white smoke so I'm not worried about it.
Thanks a bunch for taking the time to write up such a thorough DIY. This should definitely be posted in the DIY sticky.
I am shocked that you were able to find a replacement starter for a Porsche 997 at O'Reilly's. Never would have even considered it. Makes me wonder what other parts are available there.
Sean
About 3 weeks ago I bought a starter for a Lamborghini Gallardo at Oreillys as well lol.I had part number for some type of VW though forgot which model.
Anyways ran into this thread because I'm about to change out my 997 one.Thanks for the DIY.
Thanks to the OP for the detailed DIY, I was already familiar with that area, I've been in there a few times, one of which was when I replaced the infamous alternator/starter cable.
I Just replaced my old starter with a new one purchased off ebay for $109 seen below;
I managed to do this without removing the tuning pipe, getting at the hidden bolt of the starter would have been easier if I did, but job got done regardless.
What came in very handy for me was the angle you need to insert your socket extensions to reach the torx head bolt, and also taping the universal joint for better accuracy, I wouldn't have been able to do it without the pictures.
I went with this starter because they have some good reviews on these starters and I've read up that a starter is not a part you need to buy OEM, let's hope it holds up because it works great! No more slow and sluggish start, cranks right up, and goodbye to that embarrassing squeal!
Last edited by Kaychub; 01-07-2017 at 09:55 AM.
Reason: typo
Thx. Did you notice the biggest difference after changing the cable or was it the starter motor that made the biggest change?
Two things were happening, before I changed the cable when I start the car and go for a drive, even a short drive and the engine stalls, I'm stuck in the middle of the road for 2-5 minutes till the engine cools down a bit because the motor wouldn't work when the cable heats up.
After changing the cable, this stopped, but then the starter was sluggish and then there was that horrible squeal.
With the new starter, no sluggishness, no squeal car starts up immediately rather than turning a few times before firing up
I've started to notice that my 2007 C2S (50k miles) is having slow starts when engine hot. I was at the dealer having an alignment Wed when the service advisor came and sat down next to me. He tells me I need a new cable installed from the battery to the engine (starter, alternator, so on). Voltage drop indicates this is necessary. It will be 12 hours work and $2200. Since I have a tip they'll have to drop the engine. I thanked him. I'm thinking to myself what is heating up other than the engine. Then I find this thread.
It seems like the starter being the easier of the two jobs (the other being the alternator cable) I'll probably give it a go.
My question to anyone that did this, did you loosen the engine mounts to give more access? And if you did how far can I lower the motor without damaging anything? I just put new mounts in and things are pretty tight in there.
I've started to notice that my 2007 C2S (50k miles) is having slow starts when engine hot. I was at the dealer having an alignment Wed when the service advisor came and sat down next to me. He tells me I need a new cable installed from the battery to the engine (starter, alternator, so on). Voltage drop indicates this is necessary. It will be 12 hours work and $2200. Since I have a tip they'll have to drop the engine. I thanked him. I'm thinking to myself what is heating up other than the engine. Then I find this thread.
It seems like the starter being the easier of the two jobs (the other being the alternator cable) I'll probably give it a go.
My question to anyone that did this, did you loosen the engine mounts to give more access? And if you did how far can I lower the motor without damaging anything? I just put new mounts in and things are pretty tight in there.
I used this for the cable no need to drop the engine, not hard but very fiddly and time consuming, the actual part is about $100 so your bill was $2200? I must be in the wrong profession.
FYI I doubt it's the cables from the battery to the engine because that would be two sets of cables, the culprit as I found is from the gear box to the engine, I'm not sure if it's different for Tips though, quite a few people have done it, not sure if they were all manual gearboxes.
Enjoy!
Last edited by Kaychub; 08-20-2017 at 06:43 AM.
Reason: Update
If the tech measured the voltage drop across the battery to the starter and it's below .5 volts then it's the cables.
Thank you. But if it is only with a hot engine why would it be any cable forward of the engine? Are you saying the cable from the starter to the alternator?
Thanks again. Hal
Thank you. But if it is only with a hot engine why would it be any cable forward of the engine? Are you saying the cable from the starter to the alternator?
Thanks again. Hal
Did you read through the thread I posted up there? My car is a 2007 C2S as well and what you explained up there is exactly the same issue lots of people had, once the car warms up and you switch off, when you try to start up it sounds like your battery is bad or the kickstarter is sluggish, and after a few minutes it starts up again sluggishly. I didn't read the volts or anything, I just read through that thread and so many people had the same issue which was resolved after changing the cable. I changed my cable and saw the difference immediately.
This cable issue is a known issue and its the cable between the gearbox and the engine, on the manual gearbox, not sure about the config of the trip, there's a terminal on the gearbox that terminates two cables, one running from the battery to the terminal, the other (the culprit) running from the terminal to the alternator/starter.
10-09-2015 | 01:10 PM
